🔧 Ranger - Rear Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement

This job replaces the rear brake pads and rear brake rotors on your Ranger. The rear brakes use a caliper, caliper bracket, pads, and rotor; the caliper squeezes the pads against the rotor to stop the truck.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface only. Never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands rated for the truck’s weight before putting any part of your body near the wheels.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves. Brake dust and rust can irritate skin and eyes.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Do not let the brake caliper hang by the rubber brake hose. Support it with a bungee cord or hanger.
• ⚠️ Your Ranger uses a normal mechanical parking brake at the rear. Make sure the parking brake is fully released before removing the rear rotors.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this rear brake pad and rotor replacement.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 21mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs
• Rear brake caliper piston compression tool (specialty)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Small pry bar
• Rubber mallet
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Drain pan
• Bungee cord
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1-2 cans

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Ranger on level ground.
• Shift the transmission to Park.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Leave the cap loosely installed so pressure can vent when compressing the caliper pistons.
• A caliper piston compression tool pushes the brake piston back into the caliper so the new thicker pads fit.
• Brake lubricant is special high-temperature grease used only on pad contact points and slide pins, never on pad friction material or rotor faces.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the rear wheel lug nuts about half a turn.
• Do this while the tires are still touching the ground so the wheels do not spin.
• Loosen only, do not remove yet.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Rear of the Truck

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the rear of your Ranger at the rear axle housing area.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under solid rear axle support points.
• Slowly lower the truck onto the jack stands.
• Gently shake the truck by hand to confirm it is stable before continuing.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

• Use the 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them flat on the ground.
• Slide one wheel under the truck as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Remove the Rear Caliper

• Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the two rear caliper guide pin bolts.
• Slide the caliper off the brake pads.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord from the leaf spring or frame area.
• Do not stretch, kink, or twist the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads

• Use a flathead screwdriver or small pry bar to lift the old pads out of the caliper bracket.
• Pay attention to how the inner and outer pads sit before removing them.
• Remove the old pad clips from the caliper bracket by hand or with the flathead screwdriver.

Step 6: Remove the Caliper Bracket

• Use a 15mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to remove the two rear caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the caliper bracket and place it on a clean work surface.
• The caliper bracket is the heavy metal bridge that holds the brake pads around the rotor.

Step 7: Remove the Rear Rotor

• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Pull the rotor straight off the hub by hand.
• If the rotor is stuck from rust, spray the hub area with brake cleaner spray and tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet.
• If it still will not move, use a small pry bar carefully around the rotor edge while tapping with the rubber mallet.
• Do not pry against the dust shield.

Step 8: Clean the Hub Face

• Use a wire brush to clean rust from the wheel hub face where the rotor sits.
• Wipe the area with brake cleaner spray and shop towels.
• The rotor must sit flat on the hub to prevent brake vibration.

Step 9: Prepare and Install the New Rotor

• Spray both faces of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray.
• Wipe it dry using shop towels.
• Slide the new rear rotor onto the hub.
• Install one lug nut by hand to hold the rotor flat while you work.

Step 10: Service the Caliper Bracket

• Use a wire brush to clean the pad clip areas on the caliper bracket.
• Install the new clips from the rear brake hardware kit by hand.
• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the pad clip contact points only.
• Do not get lubricant on the rotor or pad friction surfaces.

Step 11: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

• Position the caliper bracket over the rotor.
• Start both bracket bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 15mm socket and torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the caliper bracket bolts.
• Torque to 111 Nm (82 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Compress the Rear Caliper Piston

• Place the old brake pad against the caliper piston.
• Use the rear brake caliper piston compression tool to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid level under the hood while compressing the piston.
• If fluid gets close to overflowing, remove a small amount from the reservoir using clean shop method tools before continuing.
• Go slowly to protect seals.

Step 13: Install the New Brake Pads

• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the pad ears where they touch the clips.
• Install the new inner and outer pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Make sure the pad friction material faces the rotor.
• The pads should slide smoothly in the clips without forcing them.

Step 14: Reinstall the Rear Caliper

• Remove the bungee cord and lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Start both caliper guide pin bolts by hand.
• Use a 13mm socket and torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the caliper guide pin bolts.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the opposite rear brake.
• Always replace rear brake pads and rotors in pairs.
• This keeps braking even from side to side.

Step 16: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

• Remove the temporary lug nut holding each rotor.
• Install each rear wheel onto the hub.
• Thread all lug nuts by hand first.
• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 17: Lower the Truck and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the truck slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower your Ranger until the tires just touch the ground.
• Use the 21mm socket and torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
• Lower the truck fully after the lug nuts are torqued.

Step 18: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal slowly several times.
• The pedal may go low at first, then become firm.
• Do not move the truck until the brake pedal feels firm.

---

✅ After Repair

• ✅ Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed with the correct brake fluid listed on the reservoir cap.
• ✅ Reinstall and tighten the brake fluid reservoir cap.
• ✅ Start your Ranger and press the brake pedal again. It should feel firm and steady.
• ✅ Test the brakes at very low speed in a safe area before normal driving.
• ✅ Perform a gentle break-in: make 8-10 moderate stops from about 30-35 mph, allowing cooling time between stops.
• ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 150-200 miles unless needed for safety.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.