🔧 F-150 - Rear Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement

This repair replaces the rear brake pads and rear brake rotors on your F-150. Worn pads or grooved rotors can cause grinding, vibration, longer stopping distance, and uneven braking.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface only. Never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Support your F-150 with jack stands; jack stands are metal safety supports that hold the truck after lifting.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves. Brake dust and rust can irritate skin and eyes.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Your F-150 uses an electric parking brake system. Put the rear brakes into service mode before removing the calipers.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive
• Flathead screwdriver
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Disc brake piston compression tool (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Dead blow hammer
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1-2 cans

---

📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your F-150 on level ground.
• 🚗 Place the transmission in Park.
• 🚗 Chock the front wheels using wheel chocks.
• 🚗 Release the parking brake before starting service mode.
• 🔧 A caliper is the clamp that squeezes the brake pads against the rotor.
• 🔧 A rotor is the round metal disc behind the wheel that the brake pads grab to stop the truck.
• 🔧 A torque wrench tightens bolts to the correct tightness so they are not too loose or too tight.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Enter Rear Brake Service Mode

• Sit in the driver seat with all doors closed.
• Turn the ignition ON without starting the engine.
• Press and hold the accelerator pedal fully down.
• Press and hold the electric parking brake switch in the RELEASE position.
• While holding both, turn the ignition OFF, then turn it back ON within 5 seconds.
• Keep holding the accelerator pedal and parking brake switch until the instrument cluster shows the parking brake is in maintenance or service mode.
• Release the pedal and switch.
• Do this before lifting the truck.

Step 2: Loosen Rear Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen each rear lug nut about half a turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.

Step 3: Lift and Support the Rear of the Truck

• Use the floor jack under the rear axle tube near one side of the truck.
• Lift until the rear tire is off the ground.
• Place a jack stand under the rear axle tube.
• Repeat for the other side if doing both rear brakes at the same time.
• Gently lower the truck onto the jack stands.
• Shake the truck lightly by hand to confirm it is stable.

Step 4: Remove the Rear Wheels

• Use the 21mm socket and ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them flat on the ground.

Step 5: Remove the Rear Caliper

• Use a 13mm socket and ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive to remove the two rear caliper slide pin bolts.
• Slide the caliper off the brake pads.
• Hang the caliper with a brake caliper hanger hook.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 6: Remove the Old Brake Pads

• Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
• Remove the old metal pad clips from the bracket by hand or with the flathead screwdriver.
• Compare the old pads to the new pads to make sure the shapes match.

Step 7: Remove the Caliper Bracket

• Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it aside.
• These bolts are tight from the factory, so keep the socket straight on the bolt head.

Step 8: Remove the Rear Rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the wheel hub by hand.
• If it is stuck, use a dead blow hammer to tap around the rotor hat until it loosens.
• Do not hit the wheel studs.
• If the rotor will not come off, make sure the parking brake service mode was completed correctly.

Step 9: Clean the Hub and Bracket

• Use a wire brush to clean rust from the wheel hub face.
• Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to wipe the hub clean.
• Use the wire brush to clean the pad clip areas on the caliper bracket.
• A clean hub helps prevent brake vibration.

Step 10: Install the New Rotor

• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray.
• Wipe it dry with shop towels.
• Slide the new rotor onto the hub by hand.
• Thread one lug nut on by hand to hold the rotor flat against the hub.

Step 11: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

• Place the caliper bracket over the rotor.
• Start both bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use an 18mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the caliper bracket bolts.
• Torque to 184 Nm (136 ft-lbs)

Step 12: Install New Hardware and Pads

• Snap the new pad clips from the rear brake hardware kit into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin layer of brake caliper slide pin grease to the pad ears where they touch the clips.
• Do not put grease on the pad friction material or rotor face.
• Slide the new rear brake pads into the bracket by hand.

Step 13: Compress the Caliper Piston

• Use the disc brake piston compression tool to slowly press the caliper piston back into the caliper.
• The piston is the round part inside the caliper that pushes the pad.
• Compress it slowly so brake fluid can return safely through the system.
• Stop once the piston is fully seated.

Step 14: Reinstall the Caliper

• Slide the caliper over the new brake pads.
• Start both caliper slide pin bolts by hand.
• Use a 13mm socket and torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to tighten the caliper slide pin bolts.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs)

Step 15: Repeat on the Other Rear Side

• Use the same tools and steps for the opposite rear brake.
• Always replace rear brake pads as a set on both sides.
• Always replace rear rotors in pairs for even braking.

Step 16: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

• Remove the temporary lug nut holding each rotor.
• Install each wheel by hand.
• Thread all lug nuts by hand first.
• Use a 21mm socket and ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 17: Lower the Truck and Torque Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack to lift slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower the truck until the tires touch the ground.
• Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs)

Step 18: Exit Rear Brake Service Mode

• Turn the ignition ON without starting the engine.
• Press and hold the accelerator pedal fully down.
• Pull and hold the electric parking brake switch in the APPLY position.
• While holding both, turn the ignition OFF, then turn it back ON within 5 seconds.
• Keep holding until the cluster shows the parking brake has exited maintenance or service mode.
• Release the pedal and switch.

Step 19: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Before driving, press the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm.
• This moves the caliper pistons back against the new pads.
• If the pedal goes to the floor, do not drive the truck.

---

✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start your F-150 and confirm the brake warning light is off.
• ✅ Apply and release the parking brake once to confirm normal operation.
• ✅ Check behind each rear wheel for brake fluid leaks.
• ✅ Take a slow test drive in a safe area and make several gentle stops.
• ✅ Bed in the new brakes: make 8-10 moderate stops from about 30-40 mph, allowing cooling time between stops.
• ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles unless needed for safety.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles: 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs)

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.