🔧 Traverse - Rear Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement

This is an intermediate repair, mainly because the electronic parking brake must enter service mode. Replace the pads and rotors on both rear wheels, inspect the slide pins, and don’t force or twist the caliper pistons.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-4 hours

Assumption: The calipers and electronic parking-brake actuators are working normally.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Use a bidirectional scan tool to place the electronic parking brake in service mode before removing the calipers.
• ⚠️ Never work under your Traverse while it’s supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Chock both front wheels because the parking brake must remain released.
• ⚠️ Don’t press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Hang each caliper securely. Never let it hang from its rubber hose.
• ⚠️ Brake dust may be harmful. Don’t blow it away with compressed air.
• ⚠️ If the brake-fluid reservoir begins overflowing, remove a small amount with a clean fluid syringe.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Bidirectional OBD-II scan tool with electronic parking-brake service mode (specialty)
• Electronic parking-brake battery maintainer (12-volt)
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• 22mm deep socket
• 3/8-inch drive metric socket set
• 1/2-inch drive metric socket set
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 250 Nm minimum
• Torque-angle gauge (specialty)
• Rear brake piston compression tool (specialty)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Rubber mallet
• Brake-caliper hanger
• Small wire brush
• Hub-cleaning brush
• Brake-fluid syringe
• Drain pan
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Mechanic’s gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear ceramic brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2, replace in pairs
• Rear disc-brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Rear caliper-bracket bolts - Qty: 4, replace if specified as single-use
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• High-temperature silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• Medium-strength thread-locking compound - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small sealed bottle

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Traverse on solid, level ground and chock both front wheels.
• Leave the transmission in Park, but release the electronic parking brake.
• Open the hood and inspect the brake-fluid level. Don’t add fluid before compressing the pistons.
• Connect a 12-volt battery maintainer so voltage remains stable during parking-brake service mode.
• Connect the scan tool and select Chevrolet > Traverse > Chassis > Electronic Parking Brake > Service Mode.
• Follow the scan-tool prompts until it confirms that the rear parking-brake actuators are fully retracted.
• If service mode fails or a parking-brake warning appears, stop and diagnose the system. Don’t force the piston backward.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the rear wheel nuts

• With the vehicle still on the ground, use the 22mm deep socket and breaker bar to loosen each rear wheel nut about one-quarter turn.
• Don’t remove the wheel nuts yet.

Step 2: Raise and support the rear

• Use the floor jack at the approved rear lifting point and raise your Traverse.
• Place jack stands under the approved rear support points, then lower the vehicle carefully onto them.
• Give the body a gentle push to confirm that it’s stable.

Step 3: Remove both rear wheels

• Use the 22mm deep socket and ratchet to remove the wheel nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and slide one wheel beneath each side as a secondary safety measure.

Step 4: Inspect the brake assembly

• Use the safety glasses and flashlight to inspect the caliper, hose, parking-brake wiring, pads, and rotor.
• Stop if you find leaking brake fluid, a torn piston boot, damaged wiring, or severe heat discoloration.
• Compare both sides. One pad worn much thinner than the others can indicate a sticking caliper or slide pin.

Step 5: Remove the rear caliper

• Use the correct metric socket from the 3/8-inch set to remove the upper and lower caliper guide-pin bolts.
• Hold the guide pin with the appropriate wrench if it tries to rotate.
• Lift the caliper from the bracket and support it with the brake-caliper hanger.
• Don’t disconnect the brake hose or electrical parking-brake connector.

Step 6: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads from the bracket by hand.
• Use the flat-blade screwdriver to remove the stainless abutment clips. These clips support the pad ears inside the bracket.
• Check whether the inner and outer pads wore evenly before throwing them away.

Step 7: Compress the caliper piston

• Verify again that the scan tool shows the electronic parking brake in service mode.
• Place the old inner pad over the piston, then use the rear brake piston compression tool to push the piston straight inward slowly.
• Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing the piston.
• Don’t twist the piston unless your exact service information specifically instructs it. The parking-brake motor is expensive, and it doesn’t enjoy being used as a press.

Step 8: Remove the caliper bracket

• Use the correct metric socket, breaker bar, and gloves to remove both caliper-bracket bolts.
• Support the bracket as the second bolt comes out.
• Set aside any torque-angle bracket bolts for replacement rather than automatically reusing them.

Step 9: Remove the old rotor

• If fitted, use the correct metric or Torx tool from the socket set to remove the rotor retaining screw.
• If the rotor is rusted to the hub, strike the rotor hat between the wheel studs using the rubber mallet.
• Don’t hit the wheel studs or the thin braking surfaces.

Step 10: Clean the hub and bracket

• Use the hub-cleaning brush to remove rust and scale from the hub face.
• Keep the hub face flat. Rust trapped behind the new rotor can cause pedal pulsation.
• Use the small wire brush and brake cleaner to clean the caliper bracket where the new hardware sits.
• Remove the slide pins, wipe off the old grease, and inspect the boots for tears.
• Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone brake lubricant to the smooth portion of each slide pin, then reinstall it.

Step 11: Install the new rotor

• Use brake cleaner and a clean towel to remove shipping residue from both rotor faces unless the rotor manufacturer says its coating should remain.
• Place the rotor squarely against the clean hub.
• Install the retaining screw, if equipped, using the appropriate socket or Torx tool.
• Torque the rotor retaining screw to 9.5 Nm (7 ft-lbs). GM service material uses this specification for this rear-disc arrangement. static.nhtsa.gov

Step 12: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Install new bracket bolts using the correct socket and apply only the thread-locking compound specified for the bolts.
• Use the torque wrench to tighten each bracket bolt to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs).
• Use the torque-angle gauge to turn each bolt an additional 15-30 degrees. This torque-plus-angle procedure appears in GM rear-caliper service information. static.nhtsa.gov

Step 13: Install the hardware and pads

• Press the new stainless hardware clips fully into the clean bracket by hand.
• Apply a very thin film of high-temperature silicone brake lubricant where the pad ears contact the clips.
• Keep all lubricant away from the pad friction material and rotor faces.
• Install the inner and outer pads with the friction material facing the rotor.
• Thin grease wins. Globs collect grit.

Step 14: Reinstall the caliper

• Remove the caliper hanger and position the caliper over the new pads without twisting the hose.
• Install both guide-pin bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the torque wrench and correct metric socket to torque the guide-pin bolts to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs). static.nhtsa.gov
• Confirm that the brake hose and parking-brake wiring follow their original routing.

Step 15: Repeat on the other side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the opposite rear wheel.
• Compare the completed assemblies before installing the wheels.

Step 16: Reinstall the wheels

• Clean the wheel-to-hub contact surfaces using the hub-cleaning brush.
• Install each wheel and start every wheel nut by hand.
• Use the 22mm socket and ratchet to snug the nuts in a crossing pattern.
• Raise the vehicle slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, and lower it until the tires touch the ground.
• Use the 22mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a crossing pattern to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Use the scan tool and select Electronic Parking Brake > Exit Service Mode.
• Apply and release the electronic parking brake while holding the brake pedal.
• With the engine off, slowly pump the brake pedal until it becomes firm. Don’t move the vehicle before doing this.
• Check the brake-fluid level and adjust it with fresh DOT 3 fluid only if needed.
• Start the engine and confirm that no brake or parking-brake warning remains.
• Test the brakes at walking speed before entering traffic.
• For bedding, make 8-10 moderate stops from approximately 35 mph to 5 mph. Avoid coming to a complete stop with hot brakes.
• Drive for several minutes afterward without heavy braking to let the brakes cool.
• Recheck the wheel-nut torque after approximately 50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $550-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $145-$300 (parts only)

You Save: $250-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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