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2019 Honda Civic
2017 - 2024 Honda Civic
EX Inline 4 1.5L Sedan
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  • Honda Civic
  • 2019
  • How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2017-2025 Honda Civic (Trim: Type R | Engine: Inline 4 2.0L | Body: Hatchback)
2016-2021 Honda Civic - How to Replace the Rear Brakes and Rotors Manually

2016-2021 Honda Civic - How to Replace the Rear Brakes and Rotors Manually

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Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2017-2025 Honda Civic (Trim: Type R | Engine: Inline 4 2.0L | Body: Hatchback)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and electronic parking brake tips for 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2023, 2024

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2017-2025 Honda Civic (Trim: Type R | Engine: Inline 4 2.0L | Body: Hatchback)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and electronic parking brake tips for 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2023, 2024

Orion
Orion

🔧 Civic - Rear Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement

This job replaces the rear brake pads and rear brake rotors so your Civic can stop smoothly and safely. The rear brakes use an electronic parking brake, so the parking brake must be released before pushing the caliper piston back in.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface only. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
  • ⚠️ Use jack stands before removing wheels. A jack stand is a fixed support that safely holds the vehicle up.
  • ⚠️ The rear brakes have an electronic parking brake. Do not force the caliper piston back with the parking brake applied.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Do not blow it with compressed air; use brake cleaner instead.
  • ⚠️ Brake fluid damages paint. Keep the master cylinder area clean and wipe spills immediately.
  • ⚠️ Replace rear brake pads and rotors in pairs, left and right side together.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • 19mm lug nut socket
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 12mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • Phillips #3 impact screwdriver
  • Dead blow hammer
  • Brake caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty)
  • Brake caliper hanger hook
  • Small flathead screwdriver
  • Wire brush
  • Brake parts cleaning brush
  • Brake cleaner aerosol can
  • High-temperature brake grease
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
  • Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
  • High-temperature brake grease - Qty: 1 tube

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Civic on level ground and leave the transmission in Park.
  • Make sure the electronic parking brake is released before lifting the rear of the car.
  • Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
  • Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is near the MAX line, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool to prevent overflow.
  • If your Civic displays brake warnings after service, a scan tool may be needed to clear codes or run electronic parking brake calibration.
  • Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is removed.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts

  • Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each rear lug nut about half a turn.
  • Do this while the tires are still touching the ground so the wheels do not spin.
  • Loosen only. Do not remove yet.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Rear of the Vehicle

  • Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum at the rear center jacking point or approved rear side jacking point.
  • Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the approved rear support points.
  • Gently lower your Civic onto the jack stands and lightly shake the car to confirm it is stable.
  • Keep the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum lightly touching the jacking point as a backup.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
  • Remove both rear wheels and place them flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Remove the Rear Caliper Bolts

  • Look at the rear brake caliper. The caliper is the clamp-shaped part that squeezes the brake pads against the rotor.
  • Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
  • If the slide pin spins, hold the pin with a suitable wrench while removing the bolt with the 12mm socket.
  • Lift the caliper off the bracket carefully.
  • Hang the caliper from the suspension using a brake caliper hanger hook.
  • Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads and Hardware

  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to gently pry the old pads out of the caliper bracket.
  • Remove the metal pad clips from the bracket using the small flathead screwdriver.
  • These clips are called abutment clips. They help the pads slide smoothly and reduce noise.
  • Compare the old pads to the new pads before throwing anything away.

Step 6: Remove the Caliper Bracket

  • Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to remove the two rear caliper bracket bolts.
  • Remove the caliper bracket and set it on a clean surface.
  • Clean the pad contact areas on the bracket with a wire brush and brake cleaner aerosol can.

Step 7: Remove the Rear Rotor

  • Use a Phillips #3 impact screwdriver to remove the rotor retaining screws, if installed.
  • If the rotor is stuck from rust, tap the rotor hat area with a dead blow hammer.
  • Do not hit the wheel studs.
  • Pull the old rotor straight off the hub.

Step 8: Clean the Hub Face

  • Use a wire brush to clean rust from the wheel hub face.
  • Spray the area with a brake cleaner aerosol can and wipe it clean with a shop towel.
  • The new rotor must sit flat on the hub to prevent brake vibration.

Step 9: Install the New Rear Rotor

  • Clean both sides of the new rotor with a brake cleaner aerosol can to remove shipping oil.
  • Slide the new rotor onto the hub.
  • If rotor retaining screws are used, install them with the Phillips #3 impact screwdriver.
  • Snug the retaining screws only. Do not overtighten them.

Step 10: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

  • Position the caliper bracket over the new rotor.
  • Start both bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the caliper bracket bolts.
  • Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Install New Pad Hardware

  • Snap the new brake pad hardware clips into the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Use a small flathead screwdriver only if needed to seat the clips fully.
  • Apply a thin layer of high-temperature brake grease to the pad contact points on the hardware.
  • Do not get grease on the rotor or pad friction material.

Step 12: Retract the Rear Caliper Piston

  • Use a brake caliper piston wind-back tool to slowly rotate and push the rear caliper piston back into the caliper.
  • The piston is the round part inside the caliper that pushes the brake pad.
  • Watch the brake fluid reservoir while retracting the piston. Stop if fluid rises too high.
  • Make sure the piston boot does not twist or tear.
  • Go slowly to protect the seal.

Step 13: Install the New Brake Pads

  • Slide the new inner and outer pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Make sure the pads move smoothly in the hardware clips.
  • If they bind, remove them and clean the bracket again with the wire brush and brake cleaner aerosol can.

Step 14: Reinstall the Rear Caliper

  • Lower the caliper over the new brake pads.
  • Start both caliper slide pin bolts by hand.
  • Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the caliper slide pin bolts.
  • Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Repeat on the Other Side

  • Repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the opposite rear brake assembly.
  • Use the same tools and the same torque specs.
  • Always finish both rear sides before driving.

Step 16: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

  • Install each rear wheel onto the hub.
  • Thread the lug nuts by hand first.
  • Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 17: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

  • Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift your Civic slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
  • Lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground.
  • Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 18: Pump the Brake Pedal

  • Before starting the engine, press the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm.
  • This moves the caliper pistons back into position against the new pads.
  • Do not skip this step. The first pedal press may go very low after brake service.

Step 19: Test the Electronic Parking Brake

  • Turn the ignition on.
  • Apply and release the electronic parking brake switch several times.
  • Listen for smooth motor operation at both rear wheels.
  • If the parking brake warning light stays on, use a scan tool to check electronic parking brake faults.

✅ After Repair

  • Check the brake fluid level and top off only with the brake fluid type listed on the reservoir cap.
  • Start your Civic and confirm the brake pedal feels firm.
  • Check both rear brakes for fluid leaks, loose hardware, or abnormal rubbing.
  • Drive slowly in a safe area and test the brakes gently.
  • Bed in the new pads by making several gentle stops from moderate speed. Avoid hard braking for the first 100-200 miles unless needed for safety.
  • Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive using the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.


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