How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2017-2020 Honda Civic (Trim: Si | Engine: Inline 4 1.5L | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step EPB maintenance mode instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2017-2020 Honda Civic (Trim: Si | Engine: Inline 4 1.5L | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step EPB maintenance mode instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018
🔧 Civic - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
This is a manageable brake job, but the electronic parking brake makes it an advanced first project. Put the EPB into maintenance mode before compressing either rear piston, then replace the pads and rotors on both sides.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.5-4 hours
Assumption: Your Civic retains its stock rear calipers and electronic parking brake system.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support your Civic with jack stands. Never work beneath a car supported only by a jack.
- ⚠️ Release the electronic parking brake before lifting the car.
- ⚠️ Use a Honda-capable scan tool to enter EPB maintenance mode before compressing the pistons. Forcing a piston can damage the actuator.
- ⚠️ Never press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
- ⚠️ Hang each caliper securely. Never let it pull on the brake hose.
- ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves. Don’t blow brake dust with compressed air.
- ⚠️ Keep lubricant, oil and dirty fingerprints off the pad and rotor friction surfaces.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnection isn’t required when the approved scan-tool procedure is used.
Honda service information requires the parking-brake mechanism to be retracted before the piston is pushed inward. howtoo.com)
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 3/8-inch drive torque wrench rated 10-80 ft-lbs
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 20-150 ft-lbs
- Honda-capable EPB service scan tool (specialty)
- Brake caliper piston compression tool (specialty)
- Phillips #3 screwdriver
- Phillips #3 hand impact driver (specialty)
- 8 x 1.25mm bolts, two
- Small flat trim tool
- Wire brush
- Dead-blow hammer
- Caliper hanger hooks, two
- Drain pan
- Shop towels
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
An EPB scan tool electronically retracts the parking-brake mechanism so the piston can be compressed safely.
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2, replace in pairs
- Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Silicone brake caliper grease - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
The matching rear pads, rotors, hardware and complete kits are now showing in the parts sidebar.
📋 Before You Begin
- 📋 Park on solid, level ground. Leave the transmission in first gear and chock both front wheels.
- 📋 Switch the ignition on, keep your foot off the brake pedal and fully release the electronic parking brake.
- 📋 Connect the Honda-capable scan tool to the diagnostic connector below the dashboard.
- 📋 Select Honda > Civic > ABS/VSA > Special Functions > Brake Pad Maintenance Mode. Menu wording varies by tool.
- 📋 Follow the scan-tool prompts until it confirms that the rear actuators are retracted.
- 📋 Switch the ignition off, but leave the scan tool connected for the exit procedure.
- 📋 Open the hood and check the brake-fluid level. Remove a little fluid if the reservoir is already at the maximum line.
Don’t substitute a generic “twist the piston” method. The electronic actuator is expensive, and it has no sense of humor.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the rear wheels
- Use the 19mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each rear lug nut about half a turn.
- Do not remove the lug nuts while the car is still on the ground.
Step 2: Raise and support the car
- Use the 2-ton floor jack at the approved rear center lifting point.
- Place the 2-ton jack stands beneath the rear side support points.
- Lower the car onto the stands and gently shake it to verify stability.
Step 3: Remove both rear wheels
- Use the 19mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
- Remove both wheels and slide them beneath the rocker-panel area as a secondary precaution.
Step 4: Confirm EPB maintenance mode
- Use the Honda-capable EPB scan tool to verify that maintenance mode remains active.
- Do not disconnect an actuator or force a piston if the scan tool reports an error.
Step 5: Remove the first rear caliper
- Use the 12mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper slide bolts.
- Hold the corresponding slide pin if it begins turning.
- Lift the caliper from the bracket and suspend it with a caliper hanger hook.
- Do not kink, twist or stretch the brake hose.
Step 6: Remove the old pads and hardware
- Remove both pads by hand. Use the small flat trim tool only if they’re stuck.
- Note the position of the inner and outer pads, shims and wear indicator.
- Remove the stainless abutment clips. These are the clips on which the pad ends slide.
- Inspect the old pads. A large inner-to-outer or side-to-side wear difference can indicate a sticking slide pin or caliper.
Step 7: Remove the caliper bracket
- Use the 17mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the two bracket bolts.
- Support the bracket as the second bolt comes out.
Step 8: Remove the old rotor
- Use the Phillips #3 screwdriver to remove the rotor retaining screw, if fitted.
- If it’s seized, use the Phillips #3 hand impact driver. Keep the bit square to avoid stripping the screw.
- Pull the rotor from the hub.
- If stuck, thread the two 8 x 1.25mm bolts evenly into the rotor’s extraction holes. Alternate them roughly one-quarter turn at a time until the rotor releases.
- Use the dead-blow hammer only on the old rotor hat, never on wheel studs or the hub bearing.
Honda’s removal procedure specifies alternating two 8 x 1.25mm extraction bolts when a rear rotor is seized to the hub. hocivic.com
Step 9: Clean and install the new rotor
- Use the wire brush to remove rust from the hub face, especially around the center pilot.
- Wipe the hub with brake cleaner and a shop towel.
- Clean both friction surfaces of the new rotor with brake cleaner.
- Install the rotor and retaining screw. Tighten the screw snugly with the Phillips #3 screwdriver. Don’t overtighten it.
- Temporarily hold the rotor against the hub with one lug nut installed backward by hand.
Step 10: Clean the bracket and slide pins
- Use the wire brush to clean the bracket surfaces beneath the abutment clips.
- Remove one slide pin at a time by hand. Keep the upper and lower pins in their original positions.
- Wipe each pin clean with a shop towel.
- Apply a thin film of silicone brake caliper grease to each smooth pin surface and reinstall it.
- Confirm that the rubber boots seat fully and the pins move freely.
Step 11: Reinstall the caliper bracket
- Start both bracket bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
- Use the 17mm socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench.
- Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).
The bracket torque and wheel torque used here match the applicable tenth-generation Civic repair procedure. howtoo.com
Step 12: Install the new hardware and pads
- Press the new abutment clips fully into the clean bracket by hand.
- Apply an extremely thin film of silicone brake caliper grease only where the pad ears contact the clips.
- Install the inner and outer pads in their correct positions.
- Verify that both pads slide without binding.
- Thin grease wins. Globs collect grit.
Step 13: Compress the rear piston
- Confirm again that EPB maintenance mode is active.
- Place an old brake pad against the piston.
- Use the brake caliper piston compression tool to push the piston straight inward slowly.
- Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing it. Stop if fluid approaches the top.
- Never force the piston. Stop if it tilts, binds or refuses to retract.
Step 14: Reinstall the caliper
- Fit the caliper over the new pads without twisting the hose.
- Start both slide bolts by hand.
- Use the 12mm socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench.
- Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs).
Published tenth-generation Civic procedures place the rear caliper fasteners around 23-26 Nm, depending on the exact fastener revision. Use 26 Nm for this Si procedure unless the replacement caliper or hardware supplier specifies otherwise. paulstravelpictures.com
Step 15: Repeat the repair on the other side
- Repeat Steps 5 through 14 on the opposite rear wheel using the same tools.
- Replace both rotors and all four rear pads during the same repair.
Step 16: Reinstall the wheels
- Remove the temporary lug nut holding each rotor.
- Install both wheels and start every lug nut by hand.
- Use the 19mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to snug the nuts in a crisscross pattern.
- Use the 2-ton floor jack to raise the car, remove the stands and lower it carefully.
- Use the 19mm socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench.
- Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs) in a crisscross pattern.
Step 17: Restore normal EPB operation
- Before operating the parking brake, slowly pump the brake pedal with your foot until it becomes firm.
- Switch the ignition on.
- Use the Honda-capable EPB scan tool and select ABS/VSA > Special Functions > End Brake Pad Maintenance Mode.
- Follow the prompts until the tool confirms normal mode.
- Apply and release the electronic parking brake twice.
- Check that the brake and EPB warning lights go out.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Verify that the brake pedal is firm before moving your Civic.
- ✅ Check the brake-fluid level and keep it between the minimum and maximum marks.
- ✅ Inspect both calipers and hoses for leaks, twisting or trapped boots.
- ✅ Test the electronic parking brake while stationary.
- ✅ Drive at walking speed first and verify normal stopping.
- ✅ Follow the pad manufacturer’s bedding procedure. If none is supplied, make several smooth moderate stops with cooling time between them.
- ✅ Avoid panic stops and holding the hot brakes at a complete stop during the initial bedding period.
- ✅ Stop driving if the pedal remains soft, the car pulls strongly, grinding occurs or an EPB warning stays illuminated.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$800 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $100-$250 (parts only, before tool purchases)
You Save: $200-$600 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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