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2016 Honda Odyssey
2011 - 2017 Honda Odyssey

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2011 - 2017 Honda Odyssey - Replacing Rear Brake Pads & Rotors - Easy DIY with Torque Specs

2011 - 2017 Honda Odyssey - Replacing Rear Brake Pads & Rotors - Easy DIY with Torque Specs

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
12mm
12mm
Socket
or (7/16")
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2016 Honda Odyssey

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, parking brake tips, and bedding-in steps for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2016 Honda Odyssey

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, parking brake tips, and bedding-in steps for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

Orion
Orion

🔧 Odyssey - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the rear brake calipers and brackets, replace the pads and rotors, then reassemble and bed-in the new brakes. On your Odyssey, the parking brake is a cable-operated system that works inside the rear rotor “hat,” so you may need to back off the parking brake adjuster if the rotor is stuck.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the van with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
  • ⚠️ Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
  • ⚠️ Brake components can be hot; let them cool before touching.
  • ⚠️ Keep grease and oil off pad/rotor friction surfaces.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 19mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 3/8" ratchet
  • 1/2" breaker bar
  • Torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
  • Impact driver with #3 Phillips bit
  • Large C-clamp
  • Caliper hanger hook
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Rubber mallet
  • Wire brush
  • Brake cleaner
  • Shop rags
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
  • Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 bottle

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on a level surface, put the transmission in Park, and release the parking brake completely.
  • Chock both front wheels securely using wheel chocks.
  • Loosen the rear lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
  • Lift the rear with a floor jack and support the rear pinch welds/subframe with jack stands.
  • Tip: Do one side at a time.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear wheels

  • Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet, then remove both rear wheels.

Step 2: Remove the caliper (do not let it hang)

  • Find the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back of the caliper.
  • Remove both slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet.
  • Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it using a caliper hanger hook.
  • Tip: Hanging prevents hose damage.

Step 3: Remove the brake pads and hardware

  • Pull the old inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
  • Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) using a flathead screwdriver.
  • Clean the bracket pad “shelves” (where the clips sit) using a wire brush and brake cleaner.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

  • Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
  • Set the bracket aside on a clean surface.
  • When reinstalling later: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rotor retaining screws (if equipped)

  • If your rotors have small screws on the face, remove them using an impact driver with #3 Phillips bit.
  • Tip: Press hard to avoid stripping.

Step 6: Remove the rotor (and back off the parking brake if stuck)

  • Pull the rotor straight off the hub by hand.
  • If it’s stuck, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet while pulling.
  • If it still won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be holding it:
    • Locate the access slot/hole behind the rotor area (you may need to rotate the rotor to line up the access).
    • Use a flathead screwdriver to turn the star-wheel adjuster to loosen the shoes (small turns, then retry the rotor).

Step 7: Clean the hub and install the new rotor

  • Clean rust from the hub face using a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner.
  • Clean the new rotor faces with brake cleaner and shop rags (removes shipping oil).
  • Install the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 8: Service the slide pins and reinstall the bracket

  • Pull the caliper slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
  • Wipe them clean with shop rags, then apply a thin coat of silicone brake lubricant.
  • Reinstall the slide pins into the bracket boots.
  • Reinstall the caliper bracket using a 17mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Install new hardware and pads

  • Install the new stainless pad clips from the hardware kit into the bracket by hand.
  • Apply a very thin layer of silicone brake lubricant on the pad ears (the small metal “tabs” that slide in the clips).
  • Install the new pads into the bracket.
  • Tip: Pads should slide freely by hand.

Step 10: Compress the caliper piston

  • Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood (loosens pressure).
  • Place an old pad against the caliper piston and compress it slowly using a large C-clamp.
  • A C-clamp is a screw clamp that pushes the piston back in evenly.
  • Watch the reservoir level and remove excess fluid with a rag if it gets too high.

Step 11: Reinstall the caliper

  • Place the caliper over the new pads.
  • Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Repeat on the other rear side

  • Repeat Steps 2 through 11 on the other rear wheel.

Step 13: Reinstall wheels and lower the van

  • Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
  • Lower the van off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm.
  • Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
  • Test the parking brake: apply and release it to ensure it doesn’t drag.
  • Do a careful road test at low speed first, then bed-in the pads:
    • Make 6-8 moderate stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph, with 30 seconds between stops.
    • Avoid sitting stopped with hard brake pressure right after bedding.
  • Recheck for any brake fluid seepage and listen for unusual grinding or scraping.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$360 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$490 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Assumption: Stock rear disc brakes with drum-in-hat parking brake (typical for your Odyssey).

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