How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2016 Ford Escape
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools/parts, EPB service mode notes, and torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2016 Ford Escape
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools/parts, EPB service mode notes, and torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
🔧 Escape - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll remove the rear calipers, replace the brake pads, and swap the rear rotors. Worn pads/rotors can cause grinding, vibration, longer stopping distance, and uneven braking.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
Assumption: Steps cover the common rear caliper setup; if your Escape has an electronic parking brake (EPB) switch, use the EPB notes in Step 1.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the Escape on jack stands before going underneath.
- ⚠️ Do not breathe brake dust; use brake cleaner and let it drip into a catch pan.
- ⚠️ Never let a caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hook.
- ⚠️ If equipped with EPB, do not force pistons without EPB service mode.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Lug nut socket 19mm
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Torque wrench 1/2" (20-200 ft-lbs range)
- Ratchet 3/8"
- Socket set 13mm
- Socket set 15mm
- Torx T40 bit
- Flathead screwdriver
- Brake caliper piston rewind tool (specialty)
- Wire brush
- Bungee cord or caliper hook
- Micrometer or ruler (minimum 0.5mm markings)
- Brake cleaner spray
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear caliper hardware kit (clips) - Qty: 1
- Brake lubricant (silicone or ceramic) - Qty: 1
- Medium-strength threadlocker (blue) - Qty: 1
- Brake fluid (DOT 4) - Qty: 1 quart
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
- Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 19mm lug socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- Pop the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (leave it sitting on top). This helps the rear pistons push back easier.
- If your Escape has an EPB switch, put the EPB into service mode before pushing pistons back. EPB service mode prevents damage.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the rear of the Escape
- Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the proper jacking point, then set it down on jack stands.
- Remove the rear wheels using a 19mm lug socket and ratchet.
- If equipped with EPB: before lifting, release the EPB and follow your scan tool’s Parking Brake Service Mode function. A scan tool “service mode” command fully retracts the EPB motor safely.
Step 2: Remove the caliper (outer part)
- Turn the steering wheel is not needed for rear brakes; make sure you have room to work.
- Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket. Support it with a bungee cord or caliper hook.
- Do not twist or stretch the brake hose.
Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware
- Pull the brake pads out by hand (a flathead screwdriver can help).
- Remove the stainless pad clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
- Clean the bracket pad “rails” (where the clips sit) using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.
Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket
- Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 15mm socket and breaker bar.
- Set the bracket aside.
- When reinstalling later: apply medium-strength threadlocker (blue) and Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Remove the old rotor
- If your rotor has a retaining screw, remove it with a Torx T40 bit.
- Pull the rotor off the hub. If stuck, tap the rotor hat area evenly using the handle of a breaker bar (controlled taps).
- Clean the hub face with a wire brush and brake cleaner spray so the new rotor sits flat.
Step 6: Install the new rotor
- Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray to remove packing oil, then wipe clean.
- Install the rotor onto the hub. Reinstall the retaining screw (if equipped) using a Torx T40 bit (snug only).
Step 7: Reinstall the bracket with new hardware clips
- Reinstall the caliper bracket using a 15mm socket and ratchet.
- Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
- Install the new pad clips from the hardware kit by hand (use a flathead screwdriver to seat them fully if needed).
Step 8: Compress (rewind) the rear caliper piston
- Use a brake caliper piston rewind tool (specialty) to push and turn the piston back in. This tool presses while rotating, which many rear calipers require.
- Go slowly and watch the brake fluid reservoir so it doesn’t overflow.
- If the piston will not rewind and you have EPB, stop and ensure EPB service mode is active first.
Step 9: Install the new pads
- Apply a thin film of brake lubricant to pad backing plate contact points and the clip contact areas (not on friction material).
- Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
Step 10: Reinstall the caliper
- Slide the caliper over the new pads.
- Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet.
- Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).
Step 11: Reinstall wheels
- Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower the Escape to the ground using the floor jack.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
Step 12: Restore pedal feel and verify fluid level
- With the engine OFF, press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm.
- Check the reservoir level and top off with DOT 4 brake fluid if needed.
- If equipped with EPB: exit service mode using your scan tool, then apply/release EPB once.
✅ After Repair
- Test in the driveway: shift to Drive and brake gently to confirm normal pedal feel.
- Do a short, low-speed road test and listen for scraping or grinding.
- Bed-in (break-in) the pads: make 6-10 moderate stops from ~30 mph down to ~5 mph, with 30 seconds between stops. Avoid hard stops for 200 miles.
- Recheck brake fluid level after the test drive and inspect for leaks.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $140-$320 (parts only)
You Save: $310-$530 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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