🔧 F-150 - Rear Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement

This repair replaces the rear brake pads and rotors on your F-150. Rear brake pads wear down over time, and rotors should be replaced if they are grooved, rust-scaled, warped, or below minimum thickness.

Difficulty Level: Beginner to Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface only. Never rely on a jack by itself.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands to support the truck before removing the wheels.
• ⚠️ Your F-150 has a parking brake system built into the rear brake rotor area. Make sure the parking brake is fully released before removing the rear rotors.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Do not blow it with compressed air; use brake cleaner.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this rear brake service.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 21mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Ratchet handle
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• C-clamp 6-inch
• Rear brake caliper piston compression tool (specialty)
• Flat-blade screwdriver medium
• Rubber mallet
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray nozzle
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1-2 cans

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your F-150 on level ground and place the transmission in Park.
• 🛑 Fully release the parking brake before lifting the rear of the truck.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
• 🔩 Slightly loosen the rear lug nuts before lifting the truck.
• 📘 A caliper is the clamp-like brake part that squeezes the brake pads against the rotor.
• 📘 A rotor is the round metal disc behind the wheel that the brake pads squeeze to stop the truck.
• 📘 A torque wrench tightens bolts to the correct tightness so they are not too loose or too tight.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen each rear lug nut about half a turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen wheels while tires touch ground.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Rear of the Truck

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum under the rear axle center section or approved rear lift point.
• Raise the rear of your F-150 high enough for both rear wheels to clear the ground.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the rear axle tubes.
• Lower the truck gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack lightly touching as a backup, but do not depend on it alone.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

• Use the 21mm socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them flat on the ground.

Step 4: Remove the Rear Brake Caliper

• Look behind the caliper and find the two smaller caliper slide pin bolts.
• Use a 13mm socket and ratchet handle to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
• Slide the caliper off the rotor.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.
• Rest the caliper carefully on the leaf spring or axle area.

Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads and Hardware

• Use your hands or a flat-blade screwdriver medium to remove the old brake pads from the caliper bracket.
• Remove the old metal pad clips from the caliper bracket.
• These clips are called brake hardware; they help the pads slide smoothly and quietly.

Step 6: Remove the Caliper Bracket

• Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to remove the two larger caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the caliper bracket from the axle flange.
• Set the bracket on a clean work surface.

Step 7: Remove the Rear Rotor

• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Pull the rotor straight off the wheel studs.
• If the rotor is stuck, use a rubber mallet to tap around the rotor hat area until it loosens.
• The rotor hat is the raised center part of the rotor that fits over the hub.
• If the rotor still will not come off, the parking brake shoes inside may be catching on a rust lip. Rock the rotor gently while pulling outward.
• Do not hammer the wheel studs.

Step 8: Clean the Hub and Bracket

• Use a wire brush to clean rust from the wheel hub face.
• Use brake cleaner spray nozzle to rinse the hub face and caliper bracket.
• Use the wire brush to clean the pad contact areas on the caliper bracket.
• This helps the new rotor sit flat and helps prevent brake vibration.

Step 9: Install the New Rotor

• Use brake cleaner spray nozzle to clean both sides of the new rotor.
• Slide the new rotor onto the wheel studs.
• Install one lug nut by hand to hold the rotor flat against the hub while you work.

Step 10: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

• Place the caliper bracket back over the rotor.
• Use an 18mm socket and ratchet handle to start both caliper bracket bolts by hand.
• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive and 18mm socket to tighten the caliper bracket bolts to Torque to 184 Nm (136 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Install New Brake Hardware and Pads

• Install the new metal brake hardware clips into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant only where the pad ears touch the hardware clips.
• Do not get lubricant on the pad friction material or rotor face.
• Slide the new inner and outer brake pads into the caliper bracket.
• The pad ears are the small tabs on the ends of each brake pad.

Step 12: Compress the Caliper Piston

• Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood to allow fluid to return more easily.
• Watch the fluid level so it does not overflow.
• Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston.
• Use a C-clamp 6-inch or rear brake caliper piston compression tool (specialty) to slowly press the piston fully back into the caliper.
• The piston is the round part inside the caliper that pushes the brake pad.
• Go slowly so you do not damage the caliper seal.

Step 13: Reinstall the Rear Caliper

• Slide the caliper over the new brake pads and rotor.
• Use a 13mm socket and ratchet handle to start both caliper slide pin bolts by hand.
• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive and 13mm socket to tighten the caliper slide pin bolts to Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Repeat on the Other Rear Side

• Use the same 13mm socket, 18mm socket, rubber mallet, wire brush, C-clamp 6-inch, and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to repeat the job on the opposite rear brake.
• Always replace rear pads and rotors in pairs.

Step 15: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

• Remove the temporary lug nut holding each rotor.
• Install each wheel onto the wheel studs.
• Thread the lug nuts on by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 21mm socket and ratchet handle to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 16: Lower the Truck and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the truck slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower your F-150 until the tires touch the ground.
• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive and 21mm socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal slowly several times.
• The pedal will feel soft at first, then become firm.
• This moves the caliper pistons back into normal position.
• Reinstall the brake fluid reservoir cap.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed with the fluid type listed on the reservoir cap.
• ✅ Start your F-150 and press the brake pedal again. It should feel firm before driving.
• ✅ Test the brakes at very low speed in a safe area before normal driving.
• ✅ Listen for scraping, grinding, or clunking. Stop and inspect if anything sounds wrong.
• ✅ Bed in the new brakes: make 8-10 gentle stops from about 30 mph to 5 mph, allowing cooling time between stops.
• ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles unless it is an emergency.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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