How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 (Trim: Lariat | Engine: V6 2.7L)
Step-by-step guide with electric parking brake service mode, tools, parts, and torque specs for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 (Trim: Lariat | Engine: V6 2.7L)
Step-by-step guide with electric parking brake service mode, tools, parts, and torque specs for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 F-150 - Rear Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement
This repair replaces the rear brake pads and rotors on your F-150. The rear brakes use an electric parking brake, so the truck must be placed into brake maintenance mode before removing the calipers.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Do not work on the rear brakes until the electric parking brake is placed in maintenance mode.
- ⚠️ Never press the brake pedal while a rear caliper is removed.
- ⚠️ Support the truck with jack stands. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful. Do not blow it off with compressed air.
- ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 21mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 6mm hex socket
- Flathead screwdriver
- Brake caliper compression tool
- Brake caliper hanger
- Dead blow hammer
- Wire brush
- Brake parts cleaner
- Shop rags
- Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
- Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
- Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your F-150 on level ground.
- Shift to Park.
- Place wheel chocks in front of the front tires.
- Do not set the parking brake before lifting the rear of the truck.
- Put the electric parking brake into maintenance mode before removing the rear calipers.
- A caliper is the clamp that squeezes the brake pads against the rotor.
- A rotor is the round metal disc behind the wheel.
- A torque wrench tightens bolts to the correct tightness so they are not too loose or too tight.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Enter Electric Parking Brake Maintenance Mode
- Sit in the driver seat with the doors closed.
- Turn the ignition ON without starting the engine.
- Press and hold the accelerator pedal fully down.
- Push and hold the electric parking brake switch downward in the release position.
- While holding both, turn the ignition OFF, then turn it back ON within 5 seconds.
- Keep holding the accelerator pedal and parking brake switch until the dash shows the parking brake is in maintenance mode.
- Release the accelerator pedal and parking brake switch.
- Turn the ignition OFF.
- Listen for rear motor movement.
Step 2: Loosen the Rear Wheel Lug Nuts
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each rear lug nut about 1/2 turn.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
Step 3: Lift and Support the Rear of the Truck
- Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the rear of your F-150 at the rear axle housing.
- Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under solid rear axle support points.
- Lower the truck gently onto the jack stands.
- Shake the truck lightly by hand to confirm it is stable.
Step 4: Remove the Rear Wheels
- Use a 21mm socket to remove the rear lug nuts.
- Remove both rear wheels and set them flat on the ground.
Step 5: Remove the Rear Caliper
- Use a 13mm socket to remove the two rear caliper slide pin bolts.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket.
- Hang the caliper with a brake caliper hanger.
- Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.
Step 6: Remove the Old Brake Pads
- Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
- Remove the old stainless pad clips from the bracket by hand or with the flathead screwdriver.
- Pad clips are thin metal guides that let the brake pads slide smoothly.
Step 7: Remove the Rear Caliper Bracket
- Use an 18mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
- Remove the caliper bracket from the axle assembly.
- These bolts are tight, so keep the socket square on the bolt head.
Step 8: Remove the Rear Rotor
- If equipped with a small rotor retaining screw, use a 6mm hex socket to remove it.
- Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
- If the rotor is stuck, tap the rotor hat area with a dead blow hammer.
- Do not hit the wheel studs.
- Work slowly if rust is heavy.
Step 9: Clean the Hub Surface
- Use a wire brush to clean rust from the wheel hub face.
- Spray the area with brake parts cleaner.
- Wipe it dry with shop rags.
- The new rotor must sit flat against the hub.
Step 10: Install the New Rear Rotor
- Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake parts cleaner.
- Wipe the rotor dry with shop rags.
- Slide the new rotor onto the hub.
- If equipped with a retaining screw, install it with a 6mm hex socket and tighten it snugly.
Step 11: Clean and Prepare the Caliper Bracket
- Use a wire brush to clean the pad contact areas on the caliper bracket.
- Install the new pad clips by hand.
- Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the pad clip contact areas.
- Do not get lubricant on the pad friction material or rotor face.
Step 12: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket
- Position the caliper bracket over the rotor.
- Start both bracket bolts by hand first.
- Use an 18mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the bracket bolts.
- Torque to 250 Nm (184 ft-lbs)
Step 13: Compress the Rear Caliper Piston
- Use a brake caliper compression tool to slowly push the caliper piston straight back into the caliper.
- Because maintenance mode is active, the piston should compress smoothly.
- Stop if the piston feels locked or crooked.
- Slow pressure protects the seals.
Step 14: Install the New Rear Brake Pads
- Install the new pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
- Make sure the pads slide freely in the new clips.
- Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant only to the pad ears where they touch the clips.
- Do not lubricate the pad friction surface.
Step 15: Reinstall the Rear Caliper
- Place the caliper over the new pads and rotor.
- Start both slide pin bolts by hand.
- Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the slide pin bolts.
- Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs)
Step 16: Repeat on the Other Rear Side
- Repeat Steps 5 through 15 on the opposite rear brake.
- Always replace rear brake pads and rotors in pairs.
Step 17: Reinstall the Rear Wheels
- Install both rear wheels by hand.
- Thread all lug nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 21mm socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 18: Lower the Truck and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the truck slightly.
- Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
- Lower the truck fully to the ground.
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs)
Step 19: Exit Electric Parking Brake Maintenance Mode
- Turn the ignition ON without starting the engine.
- Press and hold the accelerator pedal fully down.
- Pull and hold the electric parking brake switch upward in the apply position.
- While holding both, turn the ignition OFF, then turn it back ON within 5 seconds.
- Keep holding both until the dash shows maintenance mode has ended.
- Release the accelerator pedal and parking brake switch.
Step 20: Pump the Brake Pedal
- With the truck still in Park, press the brake pedal slowly several times.
- The pedal will feel soft at first.
- Stop when the pedal feels firm.
- This seats the caliper pistons against the new pads.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start your F-150 and confirm the brake warning light turns off.
- ✅ Apply and release the electric parking brake one time to confirm normal operation.
- ✅ Check around both rear calipers for brake fluid leaks.
- ✅ Test drive slowly in a safe area before normal driving.
- ✅ Bed in the new brakes with several gentle stops from 30-40 mph.
- ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles unless needed for safety.
- ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles: Torque to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs)
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$350 (parts only)
You Save: $270-$400 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
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