🔧 Explorer - Rear Brake Pads and Rotor Replacement

This is a manageable intermediate repair if you work one side at a time. You’ll remove both rear calipers and brackets, replace both rotors and the complete rear pad set, then carefully seat and break in the new brakes.

Your Explorer uses a foot-operated parking brake, not an electronic parking brake, so there’s no scan-tool service mode. The parking-brake pedal must remain fully released while removing the rotors. fordservicecontent.com

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level, solid ground. Never support your Explorer with only a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Chock both front wheels and leave the transmission in Park.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before removing either rear rotor.
• ⚠️ Never press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Hang each caliper securely. Never let it dangle from its rubber hose.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and avoid breathing brake dust.
• ⚠️ Do not disconnect or open a brake hose. Brake bleeding normally isn’t required.
• ⚠️ Do not drive until the brake pedal is firm.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 19mm deep socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm open-end wrench
• Caliper bracket socket or bit matched to installed bolts
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench rated 20-150 ft-lbs minimum
• Rear disc brake piston compression tool (specialty)
• 6-inch C-clamp
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Brake-adjusting spoon (specialty)
• Small rubber mallet
• Wire hub-cleaning brush
• Nylon brake-hardware brush
• Bungee cord or mechanic’s wire
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Disposable nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2, replace in pairs
• Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Replacement caliper anchor bolts - Qty: 4, if specified with the selected hardware
• Silicone ceramic brake lubricant - Qty: 1 tube
• Brake-parts cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• Disposable shop towels - Qty: 1 pack

The brake aisle is open beside this guide. Match the pad and rotor option marked for the rear position because the catalog includes several brake packages.

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Explorer on level pavement and place the transmission in Park.
• Keep the parking-brake pedal fully released throughout rotor removal.
• Chock both sides of both front tires.
• Open the hood and check the brake-fluid reservoir. Remove a little fluid if it’s already at the maximum mark.
• Loosen each rear lug nut about one-quarter turn with the 19mm socket before lifting.
• Take a photo of the original pad clips and hardware before disassembly.
• Complete one side first so the untouched side remains a visual reference.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the rear

• Use the floor jack at an approved rear lifting point.
• Position the jack stands under the approved body support points on both sides.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the stands, then give it a firm stability check.
• Use the 19mm socket and ratchet to remove both rear wheels.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper

• Use the 13mm socket to remove the upper and lower caliper guide-pin bolts.
• If a guide pin turns, hold its flats with the 15mm open-end wrench.
• Lift the caliper from the bracket. Use the flat-blade screwdriver only for gentle assistance.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension with the bungee cord or mechanic’s wire.
• Do not stretch, twist or kink the brake hose.
• Remove the old inner and outer pads.

Step 3: Remove the caliper bracket

• Use the correctly matched bracket socket or bit and the 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove both anchor bolts.
• These bolts are considerably tighter than the small guide-pin bolts.
• Lift the bracket away and place it on a clean surface.
• Inspect the bracket for cracks, damaged threads or severe corrosion.

Step 4: Remove the old rotor

• Confirm once more that the parking-brake pedal is fully released.
• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
• If stuck to the hub, strike the rotor hat between the wheel studs with the rubber mallet.
• If it moves slightly but catches on the parking-brake shoes, remove the access plug and use the brake-adjusting spoon to retract the shoe adjuster.
• Do not force the rotor over the parking-brake shoes. That can tear the hardware loose.
• Rust loses arguments to patience, not bigger hammers.

Step 5: Inspect the parking brake

• Use the safety glasses and inspect the small parking-brake shoes inside the rotor area.
• Check that the friction lining is attached and free of brake fluid or grease.
• Check the springs, retainers and adjuster for damage or heavy corrosion.
• Replace damaged parking-brake parts before installing the new rotor.
• Do not spray lubricant onto the shoe linings.

Step 6: Clean the hub and new rotor

• Use the wire hub-cleaning brush to remove rust from the hub face.
• Keep the wheel studs and hub center undamaged.
• Wipe the hub clean with brake-parts cleaner and shop towels.
• Spray both friction faces of the new rotor with brake-parts cleaner.
• Wipe until the towel no longer picks up oily residue.
• Install the clean rotor over the wheel studs.
• Hold it flat with one reversed lug nut tightened only finger-tight.

Step 7: Service the caliper bracket

• Use the nylon brake-hardware brush to clean the pad-support areas.
• Remove the slide pins by hand, one at a time, so they return to their original positions.
• Wipe each pin clean and inspect its rubber boot for tears.
• Apply a thin layer of silicone ceramic brake lubricant to the smooth slide-pin surfaces.
• Do not use petroleum grease because it can damage the rubber boots.
• Install the new stainless pad clips from the hardware kit.
• Apply only a very thin film of lubricant where the pad ears contact the clips.
• Keep all lubricant away from the rotor and pad friction material.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket over the new rotor.
• Start both anchor bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
• Use the matched bracket socket or bit and torque wrench to tighten both bolts.
• Torque the rear caliper anchor bolts to 165 Nm (122 ft-lbs). Ford recall instructions for this Explorer platform specify this value. manuals.plus)
• Use new anchor bolts when the replacement instructions or bolt coating requires them.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old brake pad against the piston face.
• Use the rear disc brake piston compression tool or 6-inch C-clamp to press the piston straight and slowly into the caliper.
• Watch the brake-fluid reservoir so it doesn’t overflow.
• Stop if the piston tilts, binds or requires extreme force.
• Do not disconnect the brake hose to make the piston easier to compress.

Step 10: Install the new pads

• Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket with their friction surfaces facing the rotor.
• Confirm the pad ears sit fully inside the new hardware clips.
• Place the caliper over the pads without twisting the brake hose.
• Start both guide-pin bolts by hand.
• Hold a turning guide pin with the 15mm open-end wrench.
• Use the 13mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the guide-pin bolts.
• Torque the rear guide-pin bolts to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs). howtoo.com

Step 11: Repeat on the opposite side

• Repeat Steps 2 through 10 on the other rear wheel.
• Compare pad and hardware orientation with the completed side.
• Replace pads and rotors on both rear sides. Never replace only one side.

Step 12: Reinstall the wheels

• Remove the temporary reversed lug nut from each rotor.
• Mount each wheel and start every lug nut by hand.
• Use the 19mm socket to snug the nuts in a star pattern.
• Raise your Explorer slightly with the floor jack and remove the jack stands.
• Lower the vehicle completely.
• Use the 19mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque the wheel lug nuts to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs). howtoo.com

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✅ After Repair

• Press the brake pedal repeatedly until it becomes firm. This moves the pistons against the new pads.
• Do not shift from Park until the pedal is firm.
• Check the brake-fluid reservoir and adjust it to the correct level.
• Apply and release the parking-brake pedal several times.
• Confirm both rear wheels rotate without severe drag, grinding or scraping.
• Make a slow test stop in a safe area before entering traffic.
• For bedding, make 6-8 moderate stops from about 30 mph to 5 mph without triggering ABS.
• Drive several minutes between stops to cool the brakes.
• Avoid holding the brake pedal hard while stopped with extremely hot new brakes.
• Recheck the lug-nut torque after approximately 50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$300 (parts only)

You Save: $250-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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