How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2013-2016 Ford Escape (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and bedding procedure for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2013-2016 Ford Escape (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and bedding procedure for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
🔧 Escape - Rear Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement
This repair replaces the rear brake pads and rear rotors on your Escape. The pads are the friction pieces that squeeze the rotor, and the rotor is the round metal disc behind the wheel.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work only on a flat, solid surface.
- ⚠️ Never trust a jack by itself. Always support your Escape with jack stands.
- ⚠️ Release the parking brake before removing the rear rotors.
- ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a rear caliper is removed.
- ⚠️ Do not let the brake caliper hang from the rubber brake hose.
- ⚠️ The rear caliper piston must be turned while pushed in. Use a rear caliper wind-back tool.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm lug nut socket
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- 13mm socket
- 15mm wrench
- 18mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- Rear brake caliper wind-back tool (specialty)
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Rubber mallet
- Wire brush
- Brake cleaner spray
- Shop rags
- Mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
- Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1-2 cans
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Escape on level ground and shift into Park.
- Release the parking brake completely.
- Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
- Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is completely full, remove a small amount before pushing the rear caliper pistons back.
- A caliper is the clamp that squeezes the brake pads against the rotor.
- A slide pin is a greased pin that lets the caliper move smoothly.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts
- Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each rear lug nut about 1/2 turn.
- Keep the tires on the ground while loosening them so the wheels do not spin.
- Tip: Do not remove them yet.
Step 2: Raise the Rear of the Vehicle
- Use a floor jack to lift the rear of your Escape at the rear lifting point.
- Place jack stands under the rear side support points.
- Lower the vehicle slowly onto the jack stands.
- Gently shake the vehicle by hand to make sure it is stable.
Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
- Remove both rear wheels.
- Lay the wheels flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Remove the Rear Caliper
- Use a 13mm socket to remove the two rear caliper guide pin bolts.
- If a guide pin spins, hold it with a 15mm wrench while loosening the bolt with the 13mm socket.
- Lift the caliper off the rotor.
- Rest the caliper on a small box or suspension part so the brake hose is not stretched.
Step 5: Remove the Old Rear Brake Pads
- Use your hands or a flat-blade screwdriver to slide the old pads out of the caliper bracket.
- Use the flat-blade screwdriver to remove the old metal brake hardware clips.
- Look closely at how the clips sit before removing them.
Step 6: Remove the Caliper Bracket
- Use an 18mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the two rear caliper bracket bolts.
- Remove the caliper bracket from the rear knuckle.
- The knuckle is the heavy metal suspension piece that holds the wheel hub.
Step 7: Remove the Rear Rotor
- Pull the rear rotor straight off the hub by hand.
- If it is stuck, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet.
- The rotor hat is the raised center part of the rotor.
- Do not hit the wheel studs.
Step 8: Clean the Hub and Caliper Bracket
- Use a wire brush to clean rust from the wheel hub face.
- Use brake cleaner spray and shop rags to clean the caliper bracket.
- Clean the small channels where the brake hardware clips sit.
- Tip: Clean metal helps prevent noise.
Step 9: Install the New Rear Rotor
- Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray.
- Wipe both sides dry with shop rags.
- Slide the new rotor onto the wheel hub.
- Thread one lug nut on by hand to hold the rotor flat while you work.
Step 10: Grease the Caliper Slide Pins
- Pull the slide pins out of the caliper bracket by hand.
- Wipe off old grease with shop rags.
- Apply a light coat of brake caliper slide pin grease.
- Push the slide pins back into the bracket.
- Make sure they move in and out smoothly.
Step 11: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket
- Place the caliper bracket back over the new rotor.
- Start both bracket bolts by hand first.
- Use an 18mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the caliper bracket bolts.
- Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs)
Step 12: Install New Brake Hardware and Pads
- Snap the new brake hardware clips into the caliper bracket by hand.
- Slide the new rear brake pads into the bracket.
- Make sure the friction material faces the rotor.
- The friction material is the rough brake pad surface that contacts the rotor.
Step 13: Retract the Rear Caliper Piston
- Use the rear brake caliper wind-back tool to push and rotate the caliper piston back into the caliper.
- Turn the piston clockwise while applying steady inward pressure.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir while doing this so it does not overflow.
- Stop when the piston is fully seated.
- Tip: Keep the tool straight.
Step 14: Reinstall the Rear Caliper
- Place the caliper over the new pads and rotor.
- Start both guide pin bolts by hand.
- If a guide pin spins, hold it with a 15mm wrench.
- Use a 13mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the guide pin bolts.
- Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs)
Step 15: Repeat on the Other Rear Side
- Repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the opposite rear brake.
- Rear brake pads and rotors must be replaced in pairs.
Step 16: Reinstall the Rear Wheels
- Remove the temporary lug nut from each rotor.
- Install both rear wheels.
- Start all lug nuts by hand.
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 17: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands.
- Lower the vehicle until the rear tires touch the ground.
- Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs)
Step 18: Pump the Brake Pedal
- Get in the driver seat.
- Press the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm.
- Do not drive until the brake pedal feels firm.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed using the brake fluid type printed on the reservoir cap.
- ✅ Start the engine and press the brake pedal again. It should feel firm.
- ✅ Test the parking brake before normal driving.
- ✅ Drive slowly in a safe area and make several gentle stops.
- ✅ Bed in the pads with 8-10 moderate stops from about 30 mph, allowing cooling time between stops.
- ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles unless needed for safety.
- ✅ Stop and recheck your work if you hear grinding, scraping, clicking, or feel a soft brake pedal.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$250 (parts only)
You Save: $230-$350 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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