How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2012-2020 Ford F-150 (Trim: STX | Engine: V8 5.0L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2012-2020 Ford F-150 (Trim: STX | Engine: V8 5.0L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 F-150 - Rear Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement
This repair replaces the rear brake pads and both rear rotors on your F-150. The parking-brake shoes sit inside each rear rotor, so the parking brake must be fully released and may need adjustment before the rotors can be removed.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
Assumption: Factory rear disc brakes and stock wheel hardware.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support your F-150 with jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- 🛑 Chock both front wheels because the parking brake must remain released.
- 🧤 Wear gloves, safety glasses, and a dust mask. Do not blow brake dust away with compressed air.
- 🔥 Allow the brakes to cool completely before beginning.
- 🧱 Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
- 🪝 Never let a caliper hang from its rubber brake hose.
- 🔋 Battery disconnection is not required, and your F-150 does not use an electronic parking brake.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Hydraulic floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm deep socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm open-end wrench
- 18mm socket
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 20-250 ft-lbs
- 3/8-inch drive torque wrench rated 10-80 ft-lbs
- Rear brake piston compression tool (specialty)
- Large flat-blade screwdriver
- Small flat-blade screwdriver
- 16-ounce dead-blow hammer
- Brake-caliper hanger
- Stiff nylon brake brush
- Small wire brush
- Plastic drain pan
- DOT 3 brake-fluid tester
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile mechanic gloves
- N95 dust mask
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 set; replace both sides
- Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2; replace in pairs
- Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1 set
- High-temperature ceramic brake lubricant - Qty: 1 packet
- Non-chlorinated brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
- DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small sealed bottle if needed
📋 Before You Begin
- 📍 Park your F-150 on firm, level pavement. Shift into Park, switch off the engine, and remove the key.
- 🛑 Release the parking brake completely and place wheel chocks firmly against both sides of the front tires.
- 🧴 Open the hood and check the brake-fluid reservoir. If it is at the MAX line, remove a small amount before compressing the pistons.
- 📱 No infotainment menu, scan-tool command, battery registration, or electronic parking-brake service mode is required.
- 🔩 Work on one side at a time so the assembled side remains available as a reference.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Rear Wheel Nuts
- With the truck still on the ground, use the 21mm deep socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each rear lug nut about one-half turn.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Truck
- Position the 3-ton floor jack beneath the center of the rear axle housing. Do not place it under the differential cover.
- Raise the rear until both tires clear the ground.
- Place the 3-ton jack stands beneath the axle tubes, close to the leaf springs.
- Lower the axle carefully onto the stands, then gently shake the truck to confirm it is stable.
Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels
- Use the 21mm deep socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the lug nuts.
- Remove both rear wheels and lay them flat away from the work area.
Step 4: Remove the Brake Caliper
- Place the plastic drain pan below the brake assembly and clean loose dirt with non-chlorinated brake cleaner and the stiff nylon brake brush.
- Use the 13mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the two caliper guide-pin bolts.
- If a guide pin turns, hold its flats with the 15mm open-end wrench while loosening the bolt.
- Lift the caliper off the pads and support it with the brake-caliper hanger.
- Do not disconnect the brake hose.
Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads
- Slide the inner and outer pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
- Use the small flat-blade screwdriver to remove the stainless pad clips.
- Note the position of any wear indicator before discarding the old pads.
- Photograph the hardware before removing it.
Step 6: Compress the Caliper Pistons
- Check the brake-fluid reservoir before compression and watch the fluid level throughout this step.
- Place an old brake pad across the pistons, then use the rear brake piston compression tool to press both pistons slowly and evenly into the caliper.
- A piston compression tool applies steady pressure without damaging the piston faces.
- Stop if a piston binds, tilts, leaks, or will not retract. The caliper may require replacement.
Step 7: Remove the Caliper Bracket
- Use the 18mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the two caliper-bracket bolts.
- Lift the bracket away from the rotor.
- These bolts are tight. Keep the socket fully seated to prevent rounding the bolt heads.
Step 8: Retract the Parking-Brake Shoes if Needed
- Confirm again that the parking brake is fully released.
- Look through the adjustment opening in the rotor or backing plate. Remove the rubber access plug with the small flat-blade screwdriver if equipped.
- Use the large flat-blade screwdriver to rotate the star-wheel adjuster until the parking-brake shoes retract.
- The star wheel is a toothed adjuster that changes parking-brake shoe clearance.
- If the rotor begins moving but catches firmly, retract the shoes further rather than forcing the rotor off.
Step 9: Remove the Old Rotor
- Pull the rotor straight off the wheel studs.
- If rust holds it in place, strike the rotor hat between the wheel studs with the 16-ounce dead-blow hammer.
- Do not strike the studs, parking-brake components, or thin backing plate.
- Inspect the parking-brake shoes, springs, and adjuster. Replace damaged, contaminated, cracked, or separated shoes before continuing.
Step 10: Clean the Hub and Install the New Rotor
- Use the small wire brush to clean rust from the hub face and center pilot.
- Keep the brush away from parking-brake friction surfaces and seals.
- Clean both friction faces of the new rotor with non-chlorinated brake cleaner and the stiff nylon brake brush.
- Slide the new rotor over the studs and parking-brake shoes.
- The rotor must sit completely flush against the hub.
Step 11: Adjust the Parking Brake
- Use the large flat-blade screwdriver through the access opening to expand the star-wheel adjuster until the rotor develops light drag while turning by hand.
- Back the adjuster off slightly until the rotor turns freely with only a faint, even brushing sound.
- Reinstall the rubber access plug by hand if equipped.
- Repeat the same adjustment on the opposite side.
Step 12: Service and Install the Caliper Bracket
- Use the small wire brush to clean the bracket surfaces beneath the stainless pad clips.
- Install the new pad clips by hand. They must sit flat and must not touch the rotor.
- Remove each slide pin by hand, wipe it clean, and apply a thin coating of high-temperature ceramic brake lubricant.
- Do not place lubricant on the rotor or pad friction material.
- Install the bracket and start both bolts by hand.
- Use the 18mm socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the rear caliper-bracket bolts to 165 Nm (122 ft-lbs).
Step 13: Install the New Brake Pads
- Apply a very thin film of high-temperature ceramic brake lubricant to the pad ears where they contact the stainless clips.
- Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
- Confirm the pads slide smoothly without excessive looseness.
- Keep all lubricant away from the pad faces and rotor.
Step 14: Reinstall the Caliper
- Lower the caliper over the new pads without twisting the brake hose.
- Start both guide-pin bolts by hand.
- Use the 15mm open-end wrench to hold a guide pin if it turns.
- Use the 13mm socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench to tighten the guide-pin bolts to 36 Nm (27 ft-lbs).
- Remove the brake-caliper hanger and verify the hose is not kinked or rubbing.
Step 15: Repeat on the Opposite Side
- Use the same listed tools and repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the other rear brake assembly.
- Verify that both rotors rotate and that both parking-brake adjustments feel similar.
Step 16: Reinstall the Wheels
- Install each wheel and start all lug nuts by hand.
- Use the 21mm deep socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to snug the nuts in a crossing pattern.
- Use the 3-ton floor jack to raise the axle slightly, remove the 3-ton jack stands, and lower the truck until the tires touch the ground.
- Use the 21mm deep socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs).
Step 17: Restore Brake-Pedal Pressure
- Before starting the engine, press and release the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm.
- Do not drive if the pedal remains soft or sinks toward the floor.
- Use the DOT 3 brake-fluid tester according to its instructions if the fluid appears dark or contaminated.
- Check the reservoir and add only fresh DOT 3 brake fluid if the level is below MAX.
✅ After Repair
- 🔍 Inspect around both calipers and hose connections for brake-fluid leaks.
- 🛑 Apply and release the parking brake several times. Confirm it holds the truck on a gentle incline and releases without either rear wheel dragging.
- 🚗 Perform a slow test in a safe area. Check braking at walking speed before driving normally.
- 🌡️ After the test, carefully check for unusual heat or a burning smell from either rear wheel. One side being much hotter indicates drag.
- 🛞 Recheck wheel-lug torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs) after approximately 80-160 km.
- 📘 Follow the brake-pad manufacturer's bedding procedure. If none is supplied, make 8-10 moderate stops from approximately 50 km/h to 15 km/h, allowing cooling time between stops.
- ⏳ Avoid hard emergency-style stops and holding the hot brakes stationary during the first 300 km unless safety requires it.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹22,000-₹45,000 including parts and labor
DIY Cost: ₹12,000-₹28,000 for parts only
You Save: ₹10,000-₹17,000 by doing it yourself!
Labor rates and imported F-150 parts availability vary considerably around Sonīpat. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
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