How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2011-2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Trim: Overland | Engine: V8 5.7L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2011-2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Trim: Overland | Engine: V8 5.7L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Grand Cherokee - Rear Brake Pads and Rotor Replacement
This repair replaces the rear brake pads and both rear rotors on your Grand Cherokee. The rear parking brake uses small drum-style shoes inside each rotor, so the parking brake must remain released while removing the rotors.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on level, solid ground and support your Grand Cherokee with jack stands. Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- ⚠️ Release the foot-operated parking brake before removing either rear rotor.
- ⚠️ Chock both front wheels because the parking brake must remain released.
- ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Do not blow it away with compressed air.
- ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
- ⚠️ Never allow a caliper to hang from its rubber brake hose.
- ⚠️ Brake cleaner damages paint. Wipe spills away immediately.
- Battery disconnection is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 3-ton floor jack
- 3-ton jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated to 176 Nm
- 3/8-inch drive torque wrench rated to 100 Nm
- 22mm deep socket
- 18mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm open-end wrench
- Torx T30 bit socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 6-inch socket extension
- Large flat-blade screwdriver
- Drum-brake adjusting spoon (specialty)
- Single-piston brake caliper compression tool (specialty)
- Brake caliper hanger hooks
- Small nylon cleaning brush
- 8-ounce rubber mallet
- Wheel-hub cleaning brush
- Disposable shop towels
- Nitrile mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 set
- Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2; replace in pairs
- Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1 set
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
- High-temperature silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1 tube
- Medium-strength threadlocker - Qty: 1 tube
- DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 bottle, only if the reservoir requires topping up
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Grand Cherokee on level pavement, select Park, switch off the engine, and release the parking brake completely.
- Place wheel chocks firmly in front of and behind both front tires.
- Open the hood and inspect the brake-fluid reservoir. If it is near the MAX line, remove a small amount before compressing the caliper pistons.
- No infotainment service mode or scan tool is required because your Grand Cherokee uses a pedal-operated mechanical parking brake.
- Complete one side at a time so the assembled side remains available as a reference.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Rear Wheel Nuts
- Use the 22mm deep socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each rear wheel nut about one-half turn.
- Do not remove the wheel nuts while the tires are still supporting the vehicle.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Rear
- Use the 3-ton floor jack at the approved rear lifting point to raise your Grand Cherokee.
- Position the 3-ton jack stands beneath the approved rear support points, then lower the vehicle onto them.
- Give the body a gentle push to verify that it is stable before proceeding.
Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels
- Use the 22mm deep socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the wheel nuts.
- Remove both rear wheels and place them flat away from the work area.
Step 4: Remove the Rear Caliper
- Use the 13mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper guide-pin bolts.
- If a guide pin turns, hold its flats with the 15mm open-end wrench while loosening the bolt with the 13mm socket.
- Lift the caliper from the bracket and support it with a brake caliper hanger hook.
- Do not twist, stretch, or kink the brake hose.
Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads
- Use the large flat-blade screwdriver to lift the inner and outer pads from the caliper bracket.
- Use the large flat-blade screwdriver to remove the old stainless-steel abutment clips. Abutment clips are the small metal guides on which the pads slide.
- Note the orientation of the wear indicator before discarding the old pads.
Step 6: Compress the Caliper Piston
- Place an old brake pad against the piston, then use the single-piston brake caliper compression tool to press the piston slowly and evenly into the caliper.
- Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. Remove excess fluid with clean shop towels if it approaches the top.
- The rear piston presses straight inward; it does not need to be rotated.
Step 7: Remove the Caliper Bracket
- Use the 18mm socket, 6-inch extension, and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the two caliper-bracket bolts.
- Remove the bracket and set it on a clean surface.
Step 8: Remove the Rear Rotor
- Confirm once more that the parking-brake pedal is fully released.
- Use the Torx T30 bit socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the rotor retaining screw.
- Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
- If the rotor is rusted to the hub, use the 8-ounce rubber mallet to tap around the rotor hat.
- If the rotor moves outward but catches on the parking-brake shoes, remove the rubber access plug with the large flat-blade screwdriver. Use the drum-brake adjusting spoon to retract the star-wheel adjuster a few clicks, then remove the rotor.
- Count adjuster clicks for easier reassembly.
Step 9: Inspect the Parking Brake
- Use the safety glasses and a small nylon cleaning brush to inspect the parking-brake shoes, springs, and adjuster.
- Replace contaminated, cracked, loose, or excessively thin parking-brake shoes before installing the new rotor.
- Use brake cleaner and shop towels to remove loose dust. Do not use compressed air.
Step 10: Clean and Install the New Rotor
- Use brake cleaner and shop towels to remove the protective coating from both friction surfaces of the new rotor.
- Use the wheel-hub cleaning brush to remove rust from the hub face. The new rotor must sit completely flat.
- Slide the new rotor over the parking-brake shoes and onto the hub.
- Install the retaining screw with the Torx T30 bit socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench. Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs).
- If the parking-brake adjuster was retracted, use the drum-brake adjusting spoon to return it by the same number of clicks. The rotor should turn with only slight, even shoe contact.
Step 11: Prepare the Caliper Bracket
- Use the large flat-blade screwdriver to remove any remaining old hardware from the bracket.
- Use brake cleaner and the small nylon cleaning brush to clean the pad-contact areas.
- Install the new abutment clips by hand, then use the large flat-blade screwdriver only if gentle seating pressure is needed.
- Apply a very thin layer of high-temperature silicone brake lubricant where the pad ears contact the clips. Keep lubricant away from the pad material and rotor.
- Pull each guide pin out by hand, wipe it with shop towels, apply silicone brake lubricant, and reinstall it. Make sure the rubber boots seat correctly.
Step 12: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket
- Apply a small drop of medium-strength threadlocker to the clean caliper-bracket bolt threads.
- Install both bolts by hand, then tighten them with the 18mm socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench.
- Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs).
Step 13: Install the New Brake Pads
- Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand, matching the wear-indicator position from the original pads.
- Slide each pad by hand to verify that it moves freely in the abutment clips.
- Do not put lubricant on the pad friction material or rotor surface.
Step 14: Reinstall the Caliper
- Remove the caliper from the hanger hook and place it over the new pads without twisting the hose.
- Install both guide-pin bolts by hand.
- Use the 13mm socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench to tighten the guide-pin bolts. Hold a turning guide pin with the 15mm open-end wrench.
- Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).
Step 15: Repeat on the Opposite Side
- Use the same listed tools and repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the other rear wheel.
- Both rear rotors and all rear pads must be replaced together.
Step 16: Reinstall the Wheels
- Install each wheel and start all wheel nuts by hand.
- Use the 22mm deep socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to snug the nuts in a star pattern.
- Use the 3-ton floor jack to raise your Grand Cherokee slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower it to the ground.
- Use the 22mm deep socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a star pattern. Torque to 176 Nm (130 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Before moving your Grand Cherokee, press the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm. This seats the caliper pistons against the new pads.
- Check the brake-fluid reservoir and use DOT 3 brake fluid only if the level is below the proper mark.
- Apply and release the parking-brake pedal several times. Confirm that both rear wheels release fully.
- Start the engine and verify that the red brake warning lamp turns off after the parking brake is released.
- Perform a slow test drive in a safe area. Confirm that the pedal remains firm and that there is no pulling, scraping, or fluid leakage.
- Bed in the pads with 8-10 moderate stops from approximately 50 km/h to 15 km/h. Avoid coming to a complete stop during the sequence, then drive for 10 minutes to cool the brakes.
- Avoid hard braking and prolonged pedal holding for the first 300 km unless needed for safety.
- Recheck the wheel-nut torque after approximately 80-100 km.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹28,000-₹50,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: ₹14,000-₹30,000 (parts only)
You Save: ₹14,000-₹20,000 by doing it yourself!
Labor rates around Panipat vary by workshop and imported-vehicle specialization. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
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