How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2010 Subaru Outback
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, parking brake adjustment tips, and torque specs for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2010 Subaru Outback
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, parking brake adjustment tips, and torque specs for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014
🔧 Outback - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the rear calipers and brackets, swap the rotors, and install new brake pads. On your Outback, the parking brake is a small “drum brake” inside the rear rotor, so rotor removal/installation sometimes needs a quick parking-brake adjustment.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Work on level ground and use jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- 🧤 Wear gloves and safety glasses; brake dust and cleaner are irritating.
- 🔥 Brakes can be hot; let everything cool before starting.
- 🧱 Chock the front wheels and keep the transmission in 1st gear (manual).
- 🅿️ Release the parking brake before removing rear rotors (it locks the rotor).
- 🔩 Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
- Flathead screwdriver
- C-clamp brake piston compressor
- Bungee cord
- Wire brush
- Rubber mallet
- 2" paint brush
- Brake parts cleaner spray
- High-temp silicone brake grease
- Anti-seize compound
- Mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear brake hardware kit (pad clips/shims) - Qty: 1
- Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4) - Qty: 1 quart
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, turn the engine off, and put the transmission in 1st gear.
- Release the parking brake fully (rear rotors won’t come off if it’s applied).
- Chock both front wheels with wheel chocks.
- Crack the rear lug nuts loose with a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- Open the hood and check the brake fluid level; when you compress the pistons the level may rise.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and support the rear
- Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the proper jacking point, then set the rear on jack stands.
- Keep the front wheels chocked with wheel chocks.
Step 2: Remove the rear wheels
- Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet, then remove both rear wheels.
Step 3: Remove the rear caliper (do not let it hang)
- Remove the two caliper slide-pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord.
- Don’t stretch or twist the brake hose.
Step 4: Remove the rear pads and hardware
- Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand; if stuck, use a flathead screwdriver gently.
- Remove the pad clips/hardware from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket
- Remove the two bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
- Set the bracket aside.
- Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
Step 6: Remove the rear rotor (parking brake is inside)
- If the rotor slides off, remove it by hand.
- If it’s stuck, tap around the rotor “hat” with a rubber mallet.
- If it still won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be adjusted too tight:
- Use a flathead screwdriver through the access slot to turn the star-wheel adjuster to loosen the shoes (small turns).
- Try the rotor again.
Step 7: Clean the hub and prep the new rotor
- Clean rust off the hub face using a wire brush.
- Spray the hub area with brake parts cleaner spray and wipe clean.
- Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub center (not the wheel studs).
- Clean the new rotor with brake parts cleaner spray to remove packing oil.
Step 8: Install the new rotor and set parking brake drag
- Slide the new rotor onto the hub by hand.
- If the rotor won’t go on easily, loosen the parking brake adjuster slightly using a flathead screwdriver.
- Once installed, adjust so the rotor turns freely with only the faintest shoe contact (no heavy drag) using a flathead screwdriver.
Step 9: Reinstall the caliper bracket
- Reinstall the bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and ratchet, then tighten with a torque wrench.
- Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
Step 10: Install new pad hardware and pads
- Install the new pad clips into the bracket.
- Use high-temp silicone brake grease on the pad “ears” where they slide in the clips (a thin coat).
- Install the new pads into the bracket by hand.
- Keep grease off pad friction surfaces.
Step 11: Compress the rear caliper piston
- Place an old pad against the piston, then use a C-clamp brake piston compressor to slowly push the piston fully back in.
- A brake piston compressor is a clamp tool that pushes the piston back so the thicker new pads fit.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; remove excess fluid if it threatens to overflow.
Step 12: Reinstall the caliper
- Set the caliper over the new pads and bracket.
- Install the two slide-pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet, then tighten with a torque wrench.
- Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).
Step 13: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle using the floor jack.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
- Torque to 120 Nm (88.5 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons).
- Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 or DOT 4 if needed.
- Apply and release the parking brake a few times; confirm it holds the car and releases fully.
- Test drive at low speed first; confirm no grinding, pulling, or vibration.
- Brake pad bedding (recommended): do 6-8 moderate stops from 40 to 10 mph, with cool-down driving between stops.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$350 (parts only)
You Save: $270-$500 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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