🔧 Tucson - Rear Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement

This repair replaces the rear brake pads and rear brake rotors on your Tucson. The rear caliper must be removed, the caliper piston compressed, and the parking-brake drum area inside the rotor hat must be handled carefully.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface only. Never rely on a jack by itself.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands before putting any part of your body near or under the Tucson.
• ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Wear safety glasses and a dust mask, and use brake cleaner instead of compressed air.
• ⚠️ Rear brakes get very hot after driving. Let the brakes cool fully before starting.
• ⚠️ The parking brake uses small brake shoes inside the rear rotor hat. Do not force the rotor off if it feels stuck.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is removed.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm lug nut socket
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• Phillips #3 screwdriver
• Impact screwdriver (specialty)
• C-clamp 6-inch
• Brake caliper hanger
• Flat pry bar
• Rubber mallet
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop rags
• Brake piston compressor tool (specialty)
• Brake spoon adjuster tool
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Tucson on level ground and place the transmission in Park.
• Release the parking brake before lifting the rear of the vehicle.
• Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is very full, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool before compressing the caliper pistons.
• A caliper is the clamp that squeezes the brake pads against the rotor to stop the vehicle.
• A rotor is the round metal disc behind the wheel that the brake pads press against.
• A torque wrench tightens bolts to the correct tightness so they are not too loose or too tight.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen each rear lug nut about half a turn.
• Do this while the wheels are still on the ground so they do not spin.
• Break them loose, don’t remove yet.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Rear

• Use the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the rear of the Tucson at a safe rear lift point.
• Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under the approved rear support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack lightly touching as a backup, but do not rely on it alone.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the rear lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them flat on the ground.

Step 4: Remove the Rear Caliper

• Use the 14mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the two rear caliper slide pin bolts.
• Slide the caliper off the brake pads.
• Hang the caliper with the brake caliper hanger.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads

• Use the flat pry bar to gently remove the old brake pads from the caliper bracket.
• Note the position of any pad wear indicators before removing them.
• Remove the old brake hardware clips by hand or with the flat pry bar.

Step 6: Remove the Caliper Bracket

• Use the 17mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the caliper bracket and place it on a clean work surface.
• These bolts are tighter than the caliper slide pin bolts, so use steady pressure.

Step 7: Remove the Rear Rotor Retaining Screws

• Use the Phillips #3 screwdriver to remove the rotor retaining screws if they come out easily.
• If they are stuck, use the impact screwdriver (specialty). An impact screwdriver turns the screw while you strike it, helping loosen stuck screws.
• Keep firm pressure into the screw head so it does not strip.

Step 8: Remove the Rear Rotor

• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Use the rubber mallet to tap around the rotor hat until the rotor loosens.
• If the rotor will not come off, use the brake spoon adjuster tool through the rear rotor access hole to back off the parking-brake shoe adjustment slightly.
• Pull the rotor straight off.
• Do not pry hard against the dust shield behind the rotor.

Step 9: Clean the Hub Surface

• Use the wire brush to clean rust from the wheel hub face.
• Use brake cleaner spray and shop rags to wipe the hub clean.
• The rotor must sit flat on the hub to prevent brake vibration.

Step 10: Install the New Rear Rotor

• Spray the new rotor friction surfaces with brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop rags.
• Slide the new rotor onto the hub.
• Install the rotor retaining screws with the Phillips #3 screwdriver.
• Snug the screws only. Do not overtighten them.

Step 11: Service the Caliper Bracket

• Use the wire brush to clean the areas where the brake hardware clips sit.
• Install the new brake hardware clips by hand.
• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the pad contact points on the hardware clips.
• Do not get lubricant on the rotor or brake pad friction material.

Step 12: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

• Position the caliper bracket over the rotor.
• Use the 17mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to start both bracket bolts by hand first.
• Use the torque wrench 1/2-inch drive and 17mm socket to tighten the caliper bracket bolts to Torque to 78-88 Nm (58-65 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Install the New Brake Pads

• Slide the new brake pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
• The pads should move smoothly in the new hardware clips.
• If a pad is tight, remove it and recheck that the hardware clips are seated correctly.
• Pads should slide, not be forced.

Step 14: Compress the Rear Caliper Piston

• Place an old brake pad against the caliper piston.
• Use the C-clamp 6-inch or brake piston compressor tool (specialty) to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing the piston so it does not overflow.
• Compress slowly to protect the brake hydraulic system.

Step 15: Reinstall the Rear Caliper

• Slide the caliper over the new brake pads.
• Use the 14mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to start the slide pin bolts by hand.
• Use the torque wrench 1/2-inch drive and 14mm socket to tighten the caliper slide pin bolts to Torque to 22-32 Nm (16-24 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 15 on the opposite rear brake.
• Always replace rear brake pads and rotors in pairs.

Step 17: Reinstall the Wheels

• Install both rear wheels by hand.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Lift the Tucson slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, and lower it to the ground.
• Use the torque wrench 1/2-inch drive and 21mm lug nut socket to tighten the lug nuts to Torque to 88-107 Nm (65-79 ft-lbs).

Step 18: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Sit in the driver seat and slowly press the brake pedal several times until it feels firm.
• This moves the caliper pistons back into position against the new pads.
• Do not drive until the pedal feels firm.

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✅ After Repair

• Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed with the correct brake fluid listed on the reservoir cap.
• Test the parking brake. It should hold the Tucson securely on a mild incline.
• Drive slowly in a safe area and confirm the brake pedal feels normal.
• Listen for grinding, scraping, or clunking noises.
• Bed in the new pads with several gentle stops from about 30 mph, allowing cooling time between stops.
• Avoid hard braking for the first 100-200 miles unless needed for safety.
• Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$260 (parts only)

You Save: $230-$390 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.