🔧 Outback - Rear Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement

This repair replaces the rear brake pads and rear rotors on your Outback. The rear rotor also contains the parking brake drum surface, so the electronic parking brake must be fully released before removing the rotor.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool brake system. Hot rotors and calipers can burn you.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Release the electronic parking brake before lifting the rear wheels.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Do not turn on or apply the parking brake while the rear rotors are removed.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful. Use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not normally required, but keep the ignition OFF after releasing the parking brake.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• Flathead screwdriver
• Brake caliper piston compression tool
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner aerosol
• M8 x 1.25 bolts
• Rubber mallet
• Brake spoon adjuster tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1-2 cans
• High-temperature brake lubricant - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Outback on a flat, solid surface.
• Place the transmission in Park.
• Release the electronic parking brake using the parking brake switch.
• Turn the ignition OFF after the parking brake is released.
• Place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Loosen the rear lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• A caliper is the clamp that squeezes the brake pads against the rotor.
• A rotor is the round metal disc the brake pads grab to stop the vehicle.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Release Parking Brake and Loosen Lug Nuts

• Use the parking brake switch to fully release the electronic parking brake.
• Turn the ignition OFF and keep it OFF during the repair.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen each rear lug nut about half a turn.
• Loosen before lifting the car.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Rear

• Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the rear of your Outback at the rear center jack point.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the approved rear side support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Use wheel chocks at the front wheels for extra safety.

Step 3: Remove Rear Wheels

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket to remove the rear lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them flat on the ground.
• Place one wheel under the side of the car as a backup safety cushion.

Step 4: Remove the Rear Caliper

• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the two rear caliper slide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the brake pads.
• Use a brake caliper hanger hook to hang the caliper from the suspension.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 5: Remove Old Brake Pads and Hardware

• Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
• Remove the old stainless pad clips from the bracket by hand or with needle-nose pliers.
• Pad clips are thin metal guides that help the brake pads slide smoothly.
• Use a wire brush to clean the bracket areas where the clips sit.

Step 6: Remove the Caliper Bracket

• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to remove the two rear caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it on a clean surface.
• These bolts may be tight, so keep the socket fully seated.

Step 7: Remove the Rear Rotor

• Make sure the electronic parking brake is still released.
• If the rotor slides off easily, remove it by hand.
• If it is stuck, thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts evenly into the rotor removal holes.
• Turn each bolt a little at a time using the correct socket or wrench until the rotor breaks free.
• If needed, tap the rotor hat lightly with a rubber mallet.
• Do not pry against the parking brake shoes behind the rotor.

Step 8: Inspect and Adjust Parking Brake Shoes

• Look inside the rotor hat area and inspect the parking brake shoes.
• If the shoes are badly worn, cracked, or oil-soaked, replace them before installing the new rotors.
• Use a brake spoon adjuster tool through the adjuster opening to slightly retract the parking brake shoes if the old rotor was difficult to remove.
• The parking brake shoes are small brake linings inside the rear rotor used only for parking.

Step 9: Prepare the New Rotor

• Use brake cleaner aerosol to clean both friction faces of the new rotor.
• Wipe the rotor dry with a clean shop towel.
• Slide the new rotor onto the hub.
• If the rotor does not seat fully, use the brake spoon adjuster tool to retract the parking brake shoe adjuster slightly.

Step 10: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

• Position the caliper bracket over the new rotor.
• Start both bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the bracket bolts.
• Torque to 66 Nm (49 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Install New Pad Hardware and Pads

• Install the new brake pad clips from the rear brake hardware kit into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin layer of high-temperature brake lubricant to the pad ears where they touch the clips.
• Do not put lubricant on the pad friction material or rotor face.
• Slide the new brake pads into the bracket.
• Grease contact points only.

Step 12: Compress the Caliper Piston

• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level in the reservoir.
• If the reservoir is very full, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool before compressing the piston.
• Use a brake caliper piston compression tool to slowly press the caliper piston straight back into the caliper.
• Go slowly so brake fluid does not overflow from the reservoir.

Step 13: Lubricate Slide Pins

• Pull the caliper slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
• Wipe them clean with a shop towel and brake cleaner aerosol.
• Apply a light coat of brake caliper slide pin grease.
• Reinstall the slide pins and make sure they move smoothly.

Step 14: Reinstall the Caliper

• Place the caliper over the new brake pads.
• Start both caliper slide pin bolts by hand.
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the caliper bolts.
• Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs)

Step 15: Repeat on the Other Rear Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the opposite rear wheel.
• Always replace rear pads and rotors in pairs.

Step 16: Reinstall Wheels

• Install both rear wheels by hand.
• Thread all lug nuts by hand first.
• Use the 19mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 17: Lower Vehicle and Torque Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
• Lower the vehicle to the ground.
• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs)

Step 18: Seat the Brake Pads

• Before moving the vehicle, press the brake pedal slowly 5-8 times until it feels firm.
• This moves the caliper pistons back against the new pads.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed with the correct brake fluid listed on the reservoir cap.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Turn the ignition ON and apply/release the electronic parking brake a few times to confirm normal operation.
• ✅ Test the brake pedal before driving. It must feel firm.
• ✅ Drive slowly in a safe area and make several gentle stops.
• ✅ Bed in the new pads with 8-10 moderate stops from about 30-40 mph, allowing cooling time between stops.
• ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles unless needed for safety.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive.
• ✅ Listen for grinding, scraping, or clunking. Stop and inspect if anything sounds wrong.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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