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2013 Subaru Outback
2010 - 2013 Subaru Outback
3.6R
Compatible with more variants.
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Rear brake pad replacement 2014 Subaru Outback .  How to replace rear pads and rotors.

Rear brake pad replacement 2014 Subaru Outback . How to replace rear pads and rotors.

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Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
1/2
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2010-2014 Subaru Outback (Trim: 3.6R Limited)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and rear parking brake tips for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2010-2014 Subaru Outback (Trim: 3.6R Limited)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and rear parking brake tips for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013

Orion
Orion

🔧 Outback - Rear Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement

This repair replaces the rear brake pads and rear brake rotors on your Outback. The rear caliper and caliper bracket must come off so the rotor can slide off the hub, then the new pads are installed and the caliper piston is compressed.

Difficulty Level: Beginner-Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a cool vehicle. Brake parts can get very hot after driving.
  • ⚠️ Support your Outback with jack stands. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Replace rear brake pads and rotors in pairs, left and right together.
  • ⚠️ Do not let the brake caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Do not blow it with compressed air.
  • ⚠️ Your Outback uses a mechanical parking brake shoe inside the rear rotor hat. Make sure the parking brake is fully released before removing the rotor.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this rear brake job.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 19mm lug nut socket
  • Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
  • Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
  • Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
  • 6-inch socket extension 3/8-inch drive
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
  • Brake spring hook or pick tool
  • Wire brush
  • Rubber mallet
  • M8 x 1.25 bolts
  • Bungee cord
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • Dust mask

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
  • Brake pad anti-squeal compound - Qty: 1
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small bottle

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Outback on level ground.
  • Put the transmission in Park.
  • Release the parking brake completely.
  • Place wheel chocks in front of the front tires.
  • Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is very full, remove a small amount with a clean syringe or turkey baster before compressing the caliper pistons.
  • A brake caliper piston compressor tool pushes the piston back into the caliper so the new thicker pads fit.
  • The rear rotor also acts as the parking brake drum. The small parking brake shoes sit inside the raised center section of the rotor.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts

  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen each rear lug nut about half a turn.
  • Do this while the tires are still on the ground so the wheels do not spin.
  • Do not remove the lug nuts yet.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Rear

  • Use the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the rear of your Outback at the rear center jacking point.
  • Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under the rear side support points.
  • Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
  • Lightly shake the vehicle to make sure it is stable before working underneath or beside it.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the loosened lug nuts.
  • Remove both rear wheels and set them flat on the ground.

Step 4: Remove the Rear Caliper

  • Look behind the rear brake caliper and find the two caliper slide pin bolts.
  • Use the 14mm socket, ratchet 3/8-inch drive, and 6-inch socket extension 3/8-inch drive to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
  • Lift the caliper off the rotor.
  • Use a bungee cord to hang the caliper from the suspension spring or control arm.
  • Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads and Hardware

  • Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the old inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
  • Remove the thin metal pad clips from the caliper bracket by hand or with the flathead screwdriver.
  • These clips are called abutment clips. They help the pads slide smoothly and reduce noise.

Step 6: Remove the Caliper Bracket

  • Use the 17mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the two rear caliper bracket bolts.
  • If they are tight, use the breaker bar 1/2-inch drive.
  • Remove the caliper bracket and set it on a clean surface.

Step 7: Remove the Rear Rotor

  • Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
  • Pull the rotor straight off by hand.
  • If the rotor is stuck, use the rubber mallet to tap around the rotor hat.
  • If it still will not move, thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts into the small threaded holes on the rotor face evenly until the rotor releases.
  • If the rotor feels locked by the parking brake shoes, use the flathead screwdriver through the rotor access hole to back off the parking brake adjuster slightly.
  • Turn the adjuster only a little.

Step 8: Clean the Hub and Bracket

  • Use the wire brush to clean rust from the wheel hub face.
  • Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to clean the caliper bracket where the new clips sit.
  • Use brake cleaner spray to clean both sides of each new rotor before installation.
  • Clean rotors prevent brake vibration.

Step 9: Install the New Rear Rotor

  • Slide the new rear rotor onto the hub by hand.
  • Make sure it sits flat against the hub face.
  • If the rotor will not slide over the parking brake shoes, use the flathead screwdriver to back off the parking brake adjuster slightly.
  • Install one lug nut by hand to hold the rotor in place while you work.

Step 10: Service the Caliper Bracket

  • Use the brake spring hook or pick tool to pull the slide pins out of the caliper bracket one at a time.
  • Wipe the old grease off with shop towels.
  • Apply a light coat of brake caliper slide pin grease to each slide pin.
  • Push each slide pin back into the bracket and confirm it moves smoothly.
  • Install the new abutment clips from the rear brake hardware kit by hand.

Step 11: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

  • Place the caliper bracket over the new rotor.
  • Start both bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use the 17mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the caliper bracket bolts.
  • Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs)

Step 12: Install the New Brake Pads

  • Apply a thin layer of brake pad anti-squeal compound to the metal backing plates only.
  • Do not get any grease or compound on the pad friction material.
  • Slide the new inner and outer pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
  • The friction material must face the rotor.

Step 13: Compress the Caliper Piston

  • Place the old brake pad against the caliper piston.
  • Use the brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty) to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
  • Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. Remove excess fluid if it gets close to overflowing.
  • Go slowly to protect seals.

Step 14: Reinstall the Rear Caliper

  • Remove the bungee cord and place the caliper over the new pads.
  • Start both slide pin bolts by hand.
  • Use the 14mm socket and torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to tighten the slide pin bolts.
  • Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs)

Step 15: Repeat on the Other Side

  • Repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the opposite rear brake.
  • Use the same tools and the same torque specs.
  • Always replace both rear rotors and both sides of the rear pads together.

Step 16: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

  • Remove the temporary lug nut holding the rotor.
  • Install the wheel onto the hub.
  • Thread all lug nuts by hand first.
  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 17: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Wheels

  • Use the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to raise the rear slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
  • Lower your Outback until the tires touch the ground.
  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs)

Step 18: Pump the Brake Pedal

  • Sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal slowly 5-10 times.
  • The pedal will feel soft at first, then become firm.
  • Do not drive until the brake pedal feels firm.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
  • ✅ Reinstall the brake fluid reservoir cap securely.
  • ✅ Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before normal driving.
  • ✅ Listen for scraping, grinding, or clunking noises.
  • ✅ Recheck wheel lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
  • ✅ Bed in the new brakes: make 8-10 moderate stops from about 30-40 mph, allowing time for cooling between stops.
  • ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles unless needed for safety.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$280 (parts only)

You Save: $230-$370 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.0 hours.


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