🔧 Forester - Rear Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement

This repair replaces the rear brake pads and rear brake rotors on your Forester. The rear caliper must be moved out of the way, the old rotor removed, and the new brake parts installed evenly so the brakes work safely and quietly.

Difficulty Level: Beginner-Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on a flat, solid surface and never rely on a jack alone.
• 🧤 Wear safety glasses and gloves because brake dust and rust flakes can fall while working.
• 🚗 Use wheel chocks on the front wheels so your Forester cannot roll.
• 🔥 Do not work on hot brakes. Let the vehicle cool first.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
• 🔧 Support the brake caliper with a bungee cord or wire. Do not let it hang by the rubber brake hose.
• 🧪 Brake cleaner is flammable. Use it outdoors or in a well-ventilated area.
• 🅿️ Release the parking brake before removing the rear rotors. The parking brake shoes sit inside the rear rotor hat.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 19mm lug nut socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch breaker bar
• Torque wrench rated 10-100 ft-lbs
• Torque wrench rated 50-150 ft-lbs
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp or disc brake caliper compression tool
• Brake piston spreader tool
• Rubber mallet
• M8 x 1.25 bolts
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Bungee cord or mechanic wire
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• High-temperature brake grease - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1-2 cans

---

📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Forester on level ground.
• 🅿️ Put the manual transmission in 1st gear.
• 🛑 Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
• 🅿️ Fully release the parking brake before removing the rear rotors.
• 🧰 A caliper is the clamp-shaped brake part that squeezes the brake pads against the rotor.
• 🧰 A rotor is the round metal disc that the brake pads squeeze to stop the vehicle.
• 🧰 A torque wrench tightens bolts to the correct tightness so they are not too loose or too tight.
• 💧 Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is very full, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool before compressing the caliper pistons.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each rear lug nut about 1/2 turn.
• Do this while the tires are still touching the ground.
• Loosen only. Do not remove yet.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Rear of the Forester

• Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the rear of your Forester at the rear differential jack point.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the rear side support points.
• Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
• Gently shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and place them flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Remove the Rear Caliper Slide Bolts

• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the two rear caliper slide bolts.
• The slide bolts are the smaller bolts on the back side of the caliper.
• Pull the caliper rearward and off the brake pads.
• Use a bungee cord or mechanic wire to hang the caliper from the suspension spring.
• Do not twist, stretch, or kink the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads and Hardware

• Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
• Remove the thin metal pad clips from the bracket by hand or with the flathead screwdriver.
• These clips are also called abutment clips. They help the pads slide smoothly.
• Remember the position of the inner and outer pads before removing them.

Step 6: Remove the Rear Caliper Bracket

• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it on a clean surface.
• These bolts may be tight, so keep the socket fully seated before pulling.

Step 7: Remove the Rear Rotor

• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Pull the rotor straight off by hand.
• If the rotor is stuck, use a rubber mallet to tap around the rotor hat.
• If it still will not move, thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts evenly into the rotor removal holes.
• Use a 3/8-inch ratchet to turn each M8 bolt a little at a time until the rotor pops loose.
• If the rotor feels held by the parking brake shoes, stop and make sure the parking brake is released.

Step 8: Clean the Hub and Bracket

• Use a wire brush to clean rust from the wheel hub face.
• Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to wipe the hub clean.
• Use the wire brush to clean the caliper bracket where the pad clips sit.
• Apply a very thin layer of anti-seize compound to the hub face only.
• Do not get anti-seize on the wheel studs, rotor braking surface, or parking brake shoes.

Step 9: Install the New Rear Rotor

• Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray and wipe dry with shop towels.
• Slide the new rear rotor onto the hub by hand.
• Install one lug nut backward by hand to hold the rotor flat against the hub.
• If the rotor will not slide over the parking brake shoes, do not force it. The parking brake shoes may need slight adjustment.

Step 10: Install New Brake Hardware

• Snap the new rear brake hardware clips into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Use a flathead screwdriver only if a clip needs light help seating.
• Apply a thin layer of high-temperature brake grease to the pad contact points on the clips.
• Do not put grease on the pad friction material or rotor surface.

Step 11: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

• Position the caliper bracket over the new rotor.
• Start both bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench rated 50-150 ft-lbs to tighten the caliper bracket bolts.
• Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs)

Step 12: Compress the Rear Caliper Piston

• Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston.
• Use a C-clamp or disc brake caliper compression tool to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
• A piston is the round part inside the caliper that pushes the brake pad.
• Watch the brake fluid level under the hood while compressing the piston.
• If fluid rises too high, remove a small amount carefully with a clean suction tool.
• Go slowly to protect the seals.

Step 13: Install the New Rear Brake Pads

• Apply a thin layer of high-temperature brake grease to the back of each pad where it contacts the caliper and bracket.
• Do not grease the pad friction surface.
• Slide the new inner and outer pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Use a flathead screwdriver only for gentle positioning if needed.
• The pads should slide freely without being loose.

Step 14: Reinstall the Rear Caliper

• Remove the bungee cord or mechanic wire from the caliper.
• Place the caliper over the new pads.
• Start both slide bolts by hand.
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-100 ft-lbs to tighten the slide bolts.
• Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs)

Step 15: Repeat on the Other Rear Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the other rear wheel.
• Use the same 14mm socket, 17mm socket, torque wrench, brake cleaner spray, and brake grease.
• Rear brake pads and rotors should always be replaced in pairs.

Step 16: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

• Remove the temporary lug nut holding each rotor.
• Install each wheel by hand.
• Thread the lug nuts on by hand first.
• Use the 19mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 17: Lower the Forester and Torque the Wheels

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the rear slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
• Lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench rated 50-150 ft-lbs to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs)

Step 18: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal slowly several times.
• The pedal may go low at first, then become firm.
• Do not drive until the brake pedal feels firm.

---

✅ After Repair

• ✅ Check the brake fluid level and adjust it to the proper range if needed.
• ✅ Start your Forester and press the brake pedal again. It should feel firm.
• ✅ Test the brakes at very low speed in a safe area before normal driving.
• ✅ Listen for scraping, grinding, or clunking noises.
• ✅ Recheck for brake fluid leaks around the rear calipers.
• ✅ Bed in the new brake pads with several gentle stops from 30-35 mph, allowing the brakes to cool between stops.
• ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 150-200 miles unless it is an emergency.
• ✅ Recheck wheel lug nut torque after the first short drive.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 USD equivalent, depending on parts quality and labor rates

DIY Cost: $120-$280 USD equivalent for pads, rotors, hardware, grease, and cleaner

You Save: $230-$370 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.0 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.