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2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2005 - 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Laredo
Compatible with more variants.
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How To Replace Rear Brakes And Rotors 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee

How To Replace Rear Brakes And Rotors 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Suggested Parts

No Tools

No Parts Required

Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Step-by-step rear brake job with tools, parts list, parking brake adjuster tips, and torque specs for 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Step-by-step rear brake job with tools, parts list, parking brake adjuster tips, and torque specs for 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010

Orion
Orion

🔧 Grand Cherokee - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear wheels, calipers, and caliper brackets so you can replace the brake pads and rotors. On your Grand Cherokee, the parking brake is a small drum brake inside the rear rotor “hat,” so rotor removal sometimes requires backing off the parking brake adjuster.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the SUV with jack stands before going under it.
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
  • ⚠️ Keep grease/oil off the pad friction material and rotor faces.
  • ⚠️ Release the parking brake fully before starting (rear rotors won’t come off if it’s applied).

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 19mm lug socket
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • 1/2" drive torque wrench (30-200 ft-lbs range)
  • 13mm socket
  • 18mm socket
  • 15mm wrench
  • Ratchet (3/8" drive)
  • Long flathead screwdriver
  • C-clamp (6" minimum)
  • Caliper hanger hook or bungee cord
  • Wire brush
  • Rubber mallet
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Catch pan
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
  • Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone brake grease) - Qty: 1
  • Brake hardware kit (rear) - Qty: 1
  • Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, put the transmission in Park, and release the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
  • Break the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 19mm lug socket and breaker bar.
  • Lift the rear with a floor jack and support with jack stands under the rear lift points.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear wheels

  • Use a 19mm lug socket and ratchet to remove the lug nuts, then remove the wheel.
  • Slide the wheel under the frame as backup.

Step 2: Remove the caliper (so the pads can come out)

  • Turn the steering wheel is not needed for rear, but rotate the rotor by hand to position bolts for access.
  • Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back of the caliper.
  • Use a 13mm socket to remove the slide pin bolts while holding the pin flats with a 15mm wrench if the pin wants to spin.
  • Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it using a caliper hanger hook or bungee cord.
  • Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

  • Pull the inner and outer pads out by hand (use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck).
  • Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the caliper bracket.
  • Clean the bracket pad lands (where the clips sit) using brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

  • Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket-to-knuckle bolts.
  • Set the bracket aside.
  • When reinstalling later: Torque to 136 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rotor (and deal with the parking brake if it’s stuck)

  • Pull the rotor straight off the hub. If it’s stuck, tap around the rotor hat with a rubber mallet.
  • If the rotor won’t come off, the parking brake shoes are holding it:
  • Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the rubber access plug on the backing plate (if equipped).
  • Through the access hole, use the flathead screwdriver to turn the star wheel adjuster to back the shoes off a few clicks, then try removing the rotor again.
  • Small turns—check often so you don’t over-loosen.

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

  • Clean the hub face with a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner.
  • Clean the new rotor faces with brake cleaner spray and wipe dry.
  • Install the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 7: Service the slide pins and install new hardware

  • Pull the caliper slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
  • Wipe them clean, then apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone brake grease).
  • Reinstall the slide pins and make sure they move smoothly (they should glide in/out).
  • Install the new stainless pad clips from the brake hardware kit (rear) into the bracket.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket

  • Position the bracket over the rotor.
  • Install the bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and ratchet, then tighten with a torque wrench.
  • Torque to 136 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

  • Place the old inner pad against the piston face.
  • Use a C-clamp to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
  • Keep an eye on the brake fluid level in the reservoir (it can rise).
  • Go slow to avoid damaging seals.

Step 10: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper

  • Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
  • Set the caliper over the new pads.
  • Install the slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket (hold the pin with a 15mm wrench if needed).
  • Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Install the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
  • Lower the SUV until the tire just touches the ground.
  • Use a torque wrench with a 19mm lug socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Repeat on the other rear side

  • Do the same steps on the other rear wheel.
  • Always replace pads and rotors in pairs.

✅ After Repair

  • With the engine off, press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons).
  • Check the brake fluid level; top off with DOT 3 if needed.
  • Test the parking brake: apply/release it to ensure it holds and releases normally.
  • Do a careful test drive: start at low speed and confirm normal stopping with no pulling or grinding.
  • Pad bedding (recommended): make 6-10 medium stops from 30–40 mph with cool-down time between stops.
  • Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a torque wrench.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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