How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2007 Ford Explorer
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, parking brake tips, and torque specs for 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2007 Ford Explorer
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, parking brake tips, and torque specs for 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010
🔧 Explorer - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll remove the rear wheels, unbolt the rear calipers/brackets, swap the rotors, then install new pads with fresh hardware. This restores stopping power and prevents pulsation or grinding when rotors are worn, warped, or rust-lipped.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the Explorer on jack stands before going under it.
- ⚠️ Release the parking brake before removing rear rotors (your Explorer uses a drum-style parking brake inside the rotor “hat”).
- ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed (it can push the piston out).
- ⚠️ Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) x2
- 21mm socket
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
- 13mm socket
- 13mm box wrench
- 18mm socket
- Ratchet (3/8" drive)
- 6" extension (3/8" drive)
- Large C-clamp (6" minimum)
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Bungee cord
- Wire brush
- Rubber mallet
- Brake cleaner spray
- Micrometer or vernier caliper (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
- Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
- Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
- Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart
- Parking brake shoes (optional, if worn/contaminated) - Qty: 1 set
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, turn the engine off, and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
- Release the parking brake fully.
- Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn (don’t remove yet).
- Lift the rear with a floor jack and support the frame on jack stands.
- Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level; be ready to remove a little fluid if it rises when compressing pistons.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the rear wheels
- Use a 21mm socket and remove the lug nuts, then remove both rear wheels.
Step 2: Remove the caliper (don’t let it hang)
- Turn the steering wheel is not needed; rear access is straight-on.
- Use a 13mm socket to remove the two caliper slide bolts.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord (do not stretch the brake hose).
- Tip: Take a quick photo of pad orientation.
Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware
- Pull the old pads out of the bracket by hand (use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if stuck).
- Remove the old pad clips/hardware from the bracket.
Step 4: Compress the caliper piston
- Place one old brake pad against the piston face.
- Use a large C-clamp to slowly compress the piston fully into the caliper.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir; if it gets too full, remove a small amount to prevent overflow.
Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket
- Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
- Remove the bracket and set it aside.
- Clean the bracket pad lands (where clips sit) using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.
- Reinstall later and Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
Step 6: Remove the rotor (and handle the parking brake setup)
- Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
- If it’s rust-stuck, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to break it free.
- If the rotor won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be holding it:
- Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver through the access slot (if present) to back off the star adjuster slightly until the rotor loosens.
Step 7: Prep the hub and install the new rotor
- Clean the hub face with a wire brush and brake cleaner spray so the rotor sits flat.
- Apply a very thin smear of anti-seize compound to the hub center (avoid the wheel studs and rotor braking surface).
- Install the new rotor onto the hub.
- Tip: Clean new rotors with brake cleaner first.
Step 8: Install new pad hardware and pads
- Snap the new pad clips/hardware into the bracket.
- Apply a light film of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) where the pad ears contact the clips (not on the friction material).
- Install the new pads into the bracket in the same positions as removed.
Step 9: Service slide pins and reinstall caliper bracket
- Pull the slide pins out (they’re the smooth pins the caliper “floats” on), wipe old grease off, and re-grease with brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone).
- Reinstall the bracket using an 18mm socket.
- Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
Step 10: Reinstall caliper
- Position the caliper over the new pads.
- Install the caliper slide bolts using a 13mm socket while holding the slide pin flats (if they spin) with a 13mm box wrench.
- Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
Step 11: Repeat on the other side
- Repeat Steps 2-10 on the other rear wheel.
- Tip: Do one side at a time for reference.
Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Reinstall both wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower the Explorer to the ground using the floor jack.
- Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Press the brake pedal slowly 8-10 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
- Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
- Test the parking brake hold on a gentle incline, then release it and ensure the rear wheels spin freely when lifted (no dragging).
- Bed-in (break-in) the pads: make 6-8 moderate stops from 40 to 10 mph, with 30 seconds of driving between stops to cool.
- Recheck for leaks, unusual noises, and verify lug torque after 50-100 miles.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $160-$350 (parts only)
You Save: $290-$500 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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