🔧 Wrangler - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

This repair replaces the rear brake pads and rear brake rotors on your Wrangler. The rear pads create stopping friction, and the rotors are the metal discs the pads clamp onto; replacing both together helps restore smooth, even braking.

Difficulty Level: Beginner-Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool brake system only; brake parts get extremely hot after driving.
• ⚠️ Support your Wrangler with jack stands before removing wheels. Never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves. Brake dust can irritate your eyes, skin, and lungs.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Keep grease and oil off the brake pad friction material and rotor faces.
• ⚠️ The parking brake shoes sit inside the rear rotor “hat.” If the rotor will not come off, the parking brake may need to be backed off through the adjuster opening.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this rear brake service.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 19mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Torque wrench 20-150 ft-lbs
• Flathead screwdriver
• Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
• C-clamp 6-inch
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Rubber mallet
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1-2 cans

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Wrangler on level ground and leave the transmission in 1st gear.
• 🛞 Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks so the vehicle cannot roll.
• 🅿️ Release the parking brake before removing the rear rotors.
• 🔩 Slightly loosen the rear wheel lug nuts before lifting the vehicle.
• 🧰 A brake caliper piston compressor tool pushes the caliper piston back into its bore so the new, thicker pads fit over the rotor.
• 🧼 Brake cleaner spray removes oil, dirt, and protective coating from new rotors.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each rear lug nut about one turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen wheels before lifting.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Rear

• Place wheel chocks in front of the front tires.
• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum under the rear axle tube near the side you are lifting.
• Raise the rear of your Wrangler high enough for the tire to clear the ground.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the rear axle tubes.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Give the vehicle a small push to confirm it is stable before working underneath or beside it.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

• Use the 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the rear lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them flat on the ground.

Step 4: Remove the Rear Brake Caliper

• Look at the back side of the rear caliper. The caliper is the clamp-shaped part that holds the brake pads.
• Use a 13mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
• Slide the caliper off the rotor.
• Use a brake caliper hanger hook to hang the caliper from the suspension.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads

• Use your hands or a flathead screwdriver to pull the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
• Note how the pads and metal clips are positioned before removing them.
• Remove the old brake hardware clips from the caliper bracket by hand or with the flathead screwdriver.

Step 6: Remove the Caliper Bracket

• The caliper bracket is the heavy metal bracket bolted over the rotor.
• Use an 18mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to remove the two rear caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it aside.

Step 7: Remove the Rear Rotor

• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Pull the rotor straight off by hand.
• If the rotor is stuck from rust, tap around the rotor hat with a rubber mallet.
• If the rotor still will not move, use a flathead screwdriver through the rear access opening to back off the parking brake adjuster slightly.
• Do not pry hard against the parking brake shoes.

Step 8: Clean the Hub Surface

• Use a wire brush to clean rust from the wheel hub where the rotor sits.
• Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to wipe the surface clean.
• This helps the new rotor sit flat and prevents brake vibration.
• Clean hub equals smooth brakes.

Step 9: Install the New Rotor

• Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to clean both faces of the new rotor.
• Slide the new rotor onto the hub.
• If the rotor feels loose while you work, install one lug nut by hand using the 19mm socket to hold it in place lightly.

Step 10: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

• Position the caliper bracket over the new rotor.
• Install the two bracket bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 18mm socket and torque wrench 20-150 ft-lbs to tighten the caliper bracket bolts.
• Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Install New Brake Hardware

• Use your hands to snap the new rear brake hardware clips into the caliper bracket.
• Use a flathead screwdriver only if needed to gently seat the clips.
• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the pad contact points on the clips.
• Do not put lubricant on the rotor face or pad friction material.

Step 12: Compress the Caliper Piston

• Place an old brake pad against the caliper piston.
• Use a brake caliper piston compressor tool or C-clamp 6-inch to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Go slowly so brake fluid can return to the master cylinder smoothly.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood. If it gets too full, stop and remove excess fluid properly.

Step 13: Install the New Brake Pads

• Slide the new rear brake pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Make sure the friction material faces the rotor.
• The pads should move smoothly in the hardware clips without binding.

Step 14: Reinstall the Caliper

• Remove the caliper from the brake caliper hanger hook.
• Slide the caliper over the new pads and rotor.
• Install the two caliper slide pin bolts by hand first.
• Use the 13mm socket and torque wrench 20-150 ft-lbs to tighten the caliper slide pin bolts.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs)

Step 15: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the other rear wheel using the same tools.
• Always replace rear brake pads and rotors in pairs.

Step 16: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

• Install the rear wheels onto the hubs.
• Thread the lug nuts by hand first.
• Use the 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 17: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the rear slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower your Wrangler until the tires touch the ground.
• Use the 19mm socket and torque wrench 20-150 ft-lbs to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 129 Nm (95 ft-lbs)

Step 18: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Before moving the vehicle, press the brake pedal several times with your foot.
• The pedal will feel soft at first, then become firm.
• This moves the caliper pistons back out against the new pads.
• Do not drive until the brake pedal feels firm.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed with the correct brake fluid listed on the reservoir cap.
• ✅ Look behind both rear wheels for leaks or loose parts.
• ✅ Test the brake pedal again before starting the engine.
• ✅ Drive slowly in a safe area and make several gentle stops.
• ✅ Bed in the new pads by making several moderate stops from about 30-40 mph, allowing the brakes to cool between stops.
• ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 100-200 miles unless it is an emergency.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive: Torque to 129 Nm (95 ft-lbs)

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$280 (parts only)

You Save: $230-$370 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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