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2018 Nissan Murano
2003 - 2007 Nissan Murano
SE
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How to Change REAR Brakes and Rotors on a 2017 Nissan MURANO 2014-21  w/h Torque Specs (+most cars)

How to Change REAR Brakes and Rotors on a 2017 Nissan MURANO 2014-21 w/h Torque Specs (+most cars)

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Deep Socket
or (13/16")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2003-2024 Nissan Murano (Trim: Platinum)

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2003-2024 Nissan Murano (Trim: Platinum)

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007

Orion
Orion

🔧 Murano - Rear Brake Pads and Rotor Replacement

This repair replaces both rear brake rotors and the complete rear brake-pad set. Your Murano uses a conventional caliper and a separate drum-style parking brake inside each rear rotor, so the parking brake must remain released while removing the rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level, solid ground and support your Murano with jack stands—never rely on the floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Keep the parking brake released after securely chocking the front wheels.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust may be harmful. Do not blow it away with compressed air.
  • ⚠️ Never press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
  • ⚠️ Hang each caliper securely; never allow it to hang from its rubber brake hose.
  • ⚠️ Brake fluid damages paint. Clean spills immediately and do not overfill the reservoir.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnection and scan-tool parking-brake service mode are not required.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 3-ton floor jack
  • 3-ton jack stands
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm deep socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • 3/8-inch ratchet
  • 1/2-inch breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch torque wrench rated 20-150 ft-lbs
  • Rear brake caliper piston compressor (specialty)
  • Large flat-blade screwdriver
  • Small flat-blade screwdriver
  • Brake-pad spreader
  • Mechanic’s wire hanger
  • Soft-face dead-blow hammer
  • Hub-cleaning wire brush
  • Brake-cleaner catch pan
  • Brake-fluid syringe (specialty)
  • Nitrile mechanic gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • NIOSH-approved P100 dust mask

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 axle set
  • Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 — replace in pairs
  • Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1 axle set
  • High-temperature silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1
  • Non-chlorinated brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small sealed bottle, if needed

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Murano on level pavement, select Park, switch off the engine, and place wheel chocks firmly in front of and behind both front tires.
  • Release the foot-operated parking brake completely. The parking-brake shoes sit inside the rear rotors and can prevent rotor removal if applied.
  • Open the hood and check the brake-fluid reservoir. If it is at the MAX line, use a brake-fluid syringe to remove a small amount before compressing the pistons.
  • A torque wrench is a tool that tightens a fastener to an exact specified force.
  • A caliper piston compressor slowly pushes the brake piston back into its housing to make room for the thicker new pads.
  • Complete one side at a time so the assembled opposite side remains available as a reference.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Wheel Nuts

  • Keep the tires on the ground and use a 21mm deep socket with a 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each rear wheel nut about one-half turn.
  • Do not remove the wheel nuts yet.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Rear

  • Use the 3-ton floor jack at the approved rear lifting point shown in the owner’s manual.
  • Place 3-ton jack stands under the reinforced rear support points on both sides.
  • Lower the vehicle carefully onto the stands, leave the floor jack lightly supporting the lifting point, and gently shake the body to verify stability.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

  • Use the 21mm deep socket and 1/2-inch ratchet to remove the wheel nuts.
  • Remove both rear wheels and slide them beneath the vehicle as additional protection without contacting suspension components.

Step 4: Remove the Brake Caliper

  • Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper slide-pin bolts.
  • If a slide pin turns, hold its flats with the appropriate open-end section of the supplied hand tool while loosening the bolt.
  • Lift the caliper away from the pads. Use the mechanic’s wire hanger to suspend it from the suspension.
  • Do not disconnect the brake hose.
  • Never let the caliper hang by its hose.

Step 5: Remove the Old Pads and Hardware

  • Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to lift the inner and outer brake pads from the caliper bracket.
  • Use the same screwdriver to remove the stainless-steel pad hardware clips.
  • Note the position of wear indicators and shims so the new parts can be installed in the matching locations.

Step 6: Remove the Caliper Bracket

  • Use a 19mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the two caliper-bracket bolts.
  • Remove the bracket and place it on a clean surface.
  • Keep grease, brake cleaner, and dirty gloves away from the exposed brake-hose fittings.

Step 7: Remove the Rear Rotor

  • Confirm again that the parking brake is fully released.
  • Pull the rotor straight off the hub by hand.
  • If it is rusted in place, use a soft-face dead-blow hammer to tap around the rotor hat between the wheel studs. Do not strike the studs.
  • If the rotor moves outward but catches on the parking-brake shoes, use a small flat-blade screwdriver through the rotor access opening to retract the parking-brake adjuster slightly.
  • Count the adjuster movements so the setting can be restored after the new rotor is installed.
  • Do not force the rotor over the parking-brake shoes.

Step 8: Inspect the Parking Brake

  • Use safety glasses and a P100 dust mask while inspecting the parking-brake shoes, springs, and hold-down hardware.
  • Replace damaged, oil-soaked, cracked, or separated parking-brake shoes before continuing.
  • Do not spray lubricant or brake cleaner directly into parking-brake mechanisms unless necessary for cleaning.

Step 9: Clean the Hub and New Rotor

  • Place the brake-cleaner catch pan below the assembly.
  • Use non-chlorinated brake cleaner and the hub-cleaning wire brush to remove rust from the hub face.
  • Keep the hub face flat and clean so the new rotor does not wobble.
  • Use brake cleaner and clean towels to remove the protective coating from both friction surfaces of the new rotor.
  • A clean hub helps prevent brake vibration.

Step 10: Install the New Rotor

  • Slide the new rotor over the wheel studs and parking-brake shoes by hand.
  • Temporarily install two wheel nuts by hand to hold the rotor flat against the hub.
  • If the parking-brake adjuster was retracted, use the small flat-blade screwdriver to return it by the same number of movements.
  • Rotate the rotor by hand. A very light, even shoe drag is acceptable, but the rotor must turn freely without binding.

Step 11: Service the Caliper Bracket

  • Pull each slide pin from the bracket by hand, one at a time, so their original positions are not mixed.
  • Wipe each pin clean and inspect its rubber boot for cuts or swelling.
  • Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone brake lubricant to the smooth portion of each pin, then reinstall it by hand.
  • Use the hub-cleaning wire brush to clean the pad-contact areas on the bracket.
  • Press the new stainless-steel hardware clips into the bracket by hand.
  • Apply only a paper-thin coating of silicone brake lubricant where the pad ears contact the hardware.
  • Do not put lubricant on the rotor or pad friction material.

Step 12: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

  • Position the bracket over the rotor and start both bracket bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
  • Use the 19mm socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the bracket bolts to Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Compress the Caliper Piston

  • Place an old brake pad against the piston face.
  • Use the rear brake caliper piston compressor or brake-pad spreader to push the piston slowly and straight into the caliper.
  • This piston presses straight inward; do not twist it.
  • Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. Use the brake-fluid syringe if the fluid approaches the top.
  • Stop if the piston binds, tilts, leaks, or requires excessive force.

Step 14: Install the New Brake Pads

  • Fit the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand, matching the original wear-indicator and shim positions.
  • Confirm both pads slide smoothly in the hardware without excessive looseness.
  • Do not touch the pad friction surfaces with greasy gloves.

Step 15: Reinstall the Caliper

  • Remove the mechanic’s wire hanger and lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
  • Make sure the brake hose is not twisted and the slide-pin boots are properly seated.
  • Start both slide-pin bolts by hand.
  • Use the 14mm socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the slide-pin bolts to Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Repeat on the Opposite Side

  • Use the same tools and procedure to replace the pads, rotor, and hardware on the other rear wheel.
  • Replace both rotors and all rear pads during the same repair.

Step 17: Reinstall the Wheels

  • Remove the temporary wheel nuts, then install each wheel on the hub.
  • Start all wheel nuts by hand.
  • Use the 21mm deep socket and 1/2-inch ratchet to snug the nuts in a crisscross pattern.
  • Use the 3-ton floor jack to raise the vehicle, remove the jack stands, and lower the tires until they firmly contact the ground.
  • Use the 21mm deep socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a crisscross pattern to Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Before starting the engine, press and release the brake pedal repeatedly until it becomes firm. This seats the caliper pistons against the new pads.
  • ✅ Check the brake-fluid reservoir and adjust it to the MAX line only with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid.
  • ✅ Inspect both rear calipers and brake hoses for leaks or twisting.
  • ✅ Apply and release the foot-operated parking brake several times, then confirm both rear wheels rotate without binding.
  • ✅ Start the engine and confirm the brake pedal remains firm. Do not drive if it sinks, feels unusually soft, or a leak is visible.
  • ✅ Perform an initial low-speed brake test in a traffic-free area.
  • ✅ Follow the brake-pad manufacturer’s bedding instructions. If none are supplied, use gentle stops for the first 300-500 km and avoid holding the hot brakes after a hard stop.
  • ✅ Recheck the wheel-nut torque after approximately 80-100 km.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹30,000-₹55,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹16,000-₹35,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹10,000-₹20,000 by doing it yourself!

Imported Murano parts availability can significantly affect pricing around Sonīpat. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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