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2013 Jeep Wrangler
2012 - 2017 Jeep Wrangler
Rubicon V6 3.6L
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  • Guides
  • Jeep Wrangler
  • 2013
  • How to Replace Radiator Hoses on a 2012-2017 Jeep Wrangler 3.6L (Trim: Sahara | Engine: V6 3.6L)
How To Replace The Upper And Lower Radiator Hoses On A Jeep Wrangler

How To Replace The Upper And Lower Radiator Hoses On A Jeep Wrangler

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How to Replace Radiator Hoses on a 2012-2017 Jeep Wrangler 3.6L (Trim: Sahara | Engine: V6 3.6L)

Step-by-step coolant hose repair guide with tools, parts, bleeding tips, and clamp torque specs for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

How to Replace Radiator Hoses on a 2012-2017 Jeep Wrangler 3.6L (Trim: Sahara | Engine: V6 3.6L)

Step-by-step coolant hose repair guide with tools, parts, bleeding tips, and clamp torque specs for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

Orion
Orion

🔧 Wrangler - Radiator Hose Replacement

This repair replaces a leaking, swollen, cracked, or soft radiator hose on your Wrangler. The radiator hoses carry hot coolant between the engine and radiator, so a failed hose can cause overheating and engine damage.

Assumption: This guide covers the upper and lower radiator hoses; replace the hose that is damaged, or replace both if they are aged.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Only work on the cooling system when the engine is completely cold. Hot coolant can cause severe burns.
  • ⚠️ Do not remove the radiator cap or coolant pressure cap while the engine is warm.
  • ⚠️ Coolant is poisonous to people and pets. Catch it in a drain pan and clean spills right away.
  • ⚠️ Keep coolant off belts and electrical connectors.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not normally required for radiator hose replacement on your Wrangler.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Drain pan 2-gallon minimum
  • Flat-blade screwdriver 6-inch
  • Hose clamp pliers 45-degree (specialty)
  • Slip-joint pliers 10-inch
  • Pick tool 90-degree
  • Utility knife
  • Funnel with narrow spout
  • Clean shop towels
  • Coolant hydrometer or refractometer (specialty)
  • Torque wrench inch-pound 1/4-inch drive
  • 8mm socket

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1 if replacing upper hose
  • Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1 if replacing lower hose
  • Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2 per hose
  • Mopar-compatible OAT engine coolant concentrate or premixed coolant - Qty: 1-2 gallons
  • Distilled water - Qty: 1 gallon if using concentrate

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your Wrangler on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • ❄️ Let the engine cool fully. A safe rule is to wait several hours after driving.
  • 🧴 Use only OAT coolant compatible with the 3.6L Pentastar cooling system. Do not mix coolant types.
  • 🪣 Place a drain pan under the front of the vehicle before loosening any hose.
  • 📌 A hose clamp plier is a tool that squeezes spring clamps evenly so you can slide them back without damaging the hose.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Let the cooling system cool

  • Use your gloved hand to carefully check that the upper radiator hose is cool to the touch.
  • Use safety glasses and nitrile gloves before opening the cooling system.
  • Slowly loosen the coolant pressure cap by hand only after the engine is fully cold.
  • Never rush this step.

Step 2: Position the drain pan

  • Place the 2-gallon drain pan under the lower radiator hose area.
  • If replacing only the upper hose, still place the pan below the hose connection because coolant will spill.
  • Use clean shop towels around nearby components to catch small spills.

Step 3: Drain some coolant

  • Use the flat-blade screwdriver or hose clamp pliers to loosen the lower hose connection enough to drain coolant into the pan.
  • If your hose uses a worm-drive clamp, use an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver to loosen it.
  • If your hose uses a spring clamp, use 45-degree hose clamp pliers to squeeze the clamp and slide it back on the hose.
  • Drain enough coolant so the hose you are replacing is mostly empty.

Step 4: Remove the old upper radiator hose

  • Use 45-degree hose clamp pliers to squeeze the spring clamp at the radiator end and slide it several inches back on the hose.
  • Use 45-degree hose clamp pliers to move the clamp at the engine end the same way.
  • Twist the hose by hand to break it loose from the radiator and engine fittings.
  • If stuck, use a 90-degree pick tool gently between the hose and fitting to loosen the seal.
  • Do not gouge the plastic radiator neck or aluminum engine fitting.
  • If the hose will not come off, use a utility knife to carefully slit the hose lengthwise, then peel it away.

Step 5: Remove the old lower radiator hose

  • Use 45-degree hose clamp pliers to squeeze and slide back the lower hose clamp at the radiator end.
  • Use 45-degree hose clamp pliers to squeeze and slide back the clamp at the engine/water pump end.
  • Twist the hose by hand to loosen it from both fittings.
  • Use slip-joint pliers only to gently twist the hose if hand force is not enough.
  • Use a utility knife to cut the hose only if it is stuck and being discarded.
  • Protect plastic radiator fittings.

Step 6: Clean the hose connection points

  • Use clean shop towels to wipe the radiator and engine hose fittings.
  • Use the 90-degree pick tool carefully to remove stuck rubber pieces from the old hose.
  • Do not sand or scrape aggressively. The hose needs a smooth sealing surface.

Step 7: Install the new hose

  • Compare the new hose to the old hose by hand before installation. The bends and length should match.
  • Slide the correct clamps onto the new hose before pushing the hose onto the fittings.
  • Push the hose fully onto the radiator fitting and engine fitting by hand.
  • Use 45-degree hose clamp pliers to position each spring clamp over the raised bead on the fitting.
  • If using worm-drive clamps, use an 8mm socket and inch-pound torque wrench to tighten them snugly; typical clamp torque is Torque to 3-4 Nm (27-35 in-lbs).
  • Do not overtighten worm-drive clamps on plastic radiator necks.

Step 8: Refill the cooling system

  • Use a funnel with narrow spout to refill the coolant reservoir/radiator fill point with the correct OAT coolant mixture.
  • If using concentrate, mix coolant and distilled water at a 50/50 ratio before pouring.
  • Fill slowly to reduce trapped air.
  • Use clean shop towels to wipe spills immediately.

Step 9: Bleed air from the system

  • Leave the pressure cap off while the engine is still cold.
  • Start the engine and let it idle.
  • Turn the heater temperature to full hot and blower to low using the HVAC controls.
  • Watch the coolant level. Use the funnel to add coolant as the level drops.
  • When the upper hose becomes warm and the heater blows hot air, air is moving out of the system.
  • Install the pressure cap by hand once the coolant level stabilizes.

Step 10: Check for leaks

  • Use a flashlight to inspect both hose ends while the engine idles.
  • Look for drips, wet clamp areas, or coolant smell.
  • If a worm-drive clamp leaks, use the 8mm socket and inch-pound torque wrench to tighten slightly, staying near Torque to 3-4 Nm (27-35 in-lbs).
  • Shut the engine off if coolant sprays or the temperature gauge rises above normal.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Take a short test drive while watching the temperature gauge.
  • ✅ Let your Wrangler cool completely, then recheck the coolant level and top off if needed.
  • ✅ Reinspect both radiator hose ends after the first drive and again after a few heat cycles.
  • ✅ Use a coolant hydrometer or refractometer to verify freeze/boil protection if you mixed coolant yourself.
  • ✅ Dispose of old coolant properly at a recycling center or repair facility. Do not pour it on the ground or into drains.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 for one hose, $280-$500 for upper and lower hoses together

DIY Cost: $35-$120 for one hose, $80-$220 for both hoses with coolant and clamps

You Save: $100-$280 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.5 hours.


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