How to Replace Outer Tie Rod Ends on a 2018-2023 Honda Accord
Step-by-step steering repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023
How to Replace Outer Tie Rod Ends on a 2018-2023 Honda Accord
Step-by-step steering repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023
🔧 Accord - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement
This repair replaces the outer tie rod ends on your Accord. The outer tie rod end connects the steering rack to the steering knuckle, and a worn one can cause clunking, wandering, uneven tire wear, or loose steering.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours for both sides
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support your Accord with jack stands. Never work with the vehicle held only by a floor jack.
- ⚠️ Tie rod ends are steering safety parts. Loose or incorrectly installed parts can cause loss of steering control.
- ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the threaded tie rod stud. This can damage the threads.
- ⚠️ Count the turns when removing the old tie rod end. This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.
- ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after this repair.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- 19mm lug nut socket
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 17mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 22mm wrench
- 19mm wrench
- Needle-nose pliers
- Outer tie rod separator tool (specialty)
- Paint marker
- Tape measure
- Penetrating oil
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front outer tie rod end - Qty: 2
- Outer tie rod end castle nut - Qty: 2
- Outer tie rod end cotter pin - Qty: 2
Replace in pairs: Replacing both outer tie rod ends keeps steering feel even side-to-side.
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Accord on level ground with the steering wheel centered.
- Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod jam nut and the tie rod end nut.
- A jam nut is the locking nut on the inner tie rod that holds the outer tie rod end in place.
- A cotter pin is a small bent safety pin that keeps the castle nut from backing off.
- A tie rod separator is a small puller tool that safely pops the tapered tie rod stud loose from the steering knuckle.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts
- Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts one turn while the tires are still on the ground.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
- Loosen first, lift second.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Front
- Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Accord at the front center jacking point.
- Place jack stands under the front side support points.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
- Push the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable.
Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels
- Use a 19mm lug nut socket to remove the lug nuts.
- Remove both front wheels.
- Place the wheels flat under the sides of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Mark and Measure the Old Tie Rod Position
- Use a paint marker to mark the inner tie rod threads where the outer tie rod end begins.
- Use a tape measure to measure from the jam nut face to the center of the tie rod stud.
- Write the measurement down for each side.
- This does not replace an alignment, but it helps the vehicle drive straight enough to get one.
Step 5: Loosen the Jam Nut
- Hold the outer tie rod end with a 19mm wrench.
- Use a 22mm wrench to loosen the jam nut about one turn.
- Do not move the jam nut far from your paint mark.
- Keep your reference mark visible.
Step 6: Remove the Cotter Pin and Castle Nut
- Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and pull the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud.
- Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket to remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud.
- If the nut is rusty, apply penetrating oil and work it slowly.
Step 7: Separate the Tie Rod End from the Knuckle
- Install the outer tie rod separator tool over the tie rod end and steering knuckle.
- Use a 19mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to tighten the separator until the tie rod stud pops loose.
- A tapered stud is cone-shaped and locks tightly into the steering knuckle.
- Remove the tie rod stud from the knuckle by hand.
- A sharp pop is normal.
Step 8: Count Turns and Remove the Old Tie Rod End
- Turn the old outer tie rod end counterclockwise by hand to remove it from the inner tie rod.
- Count the exact number of turns it takes to remove it.
- Write the turn count down for that side.
- Do not move the jam nut unless needed.
Step 9: Install the New Tie Rod End
- Thread the new front outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod by hand.
- Use the same number of turns counted during removal.
- Line it up as close as possible to your paint marker mark and your tape measure measurement.
- Do not tighten the jam nut yet.
Step 10: Attach the Tie Rod End to the Knuckle
- Insert the new tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
- Install the new castle nut by hand first.
- Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket with a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the castle nut to Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
- If the cotter pin hole does not line up, tighten the nut slightly more until it lines up. Do not loosen it to line up the hole.
- Use needle-nose pliers to install and bend the new cotter pin.
Step 11: Tighten the Jam Nut
- Hold the new outer tie rod end steady with a 19mm wrench.
- Use a 22mm wrench to tighten the jam nut against the tie rod end.
- Tighten the jam nut to Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs) if your torque wrench and crowfoot setup can access it.
- If using hand wrenches only, make it firmly tight without forcing it.
Step 12: Repeat on the Other Side
- Repeat Steps 4-11 on the other front outer tie rod end using the same tools.
- Use the measurements and turn count for each side separately.
Step 13: Reinstall the Front Wheels
- Install the wheels and start all lug nuts by hand.
- Use a 19mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern.
- Use the floor jack to raise your Accord slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower it to the ground.
- Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and 19mm lug nut socket to tighten the lug nuts to Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Turn the steering wheel left and right while parked. Make sure nothing binds or rubs.
- ✅ Test drive slowly at first. The steering wheel may be off-center until alignment is completed.
- ✅ Get a professional 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
- ✅ Recheck that both cotter pins are installed and bent securely.
- ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor, alignment not included)
DIY Cost: $60-$160 (parts only)
You Save: $290-$490 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
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