How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2022 Ford Escape 1.5L (Fix Misfire & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and 8 Nm (71 in-lbs) torque spec
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2022 Ford Escape 1.5L (Fix Misfire & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and 8 Nm (71 in-lbs) torque spec
š§ Escape - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Escape uses coil-on-plug ignition coils (one coil per cylinder) that sit right on top of the spark plugs. Replacing a bad coil can fix misfires, rough idle, and flashing check-engine light, and itās a straightforward under-hood job.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
ā ļø Safety & Precautions
- ā ļø Let the engine cool fully before working near the turbo and cylinder head.
- ā ļø Keep the key far away from the vehicle so the ignition canāt be turned on accidentally.
- ā ļø If the check-engine light is flashing, avoid driving until repaired (can damage the catalytic converter).
- ā ļø Battery disconnect is not required, but disconnecting the negative terminal reduces the chance of an accidental short.
š§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 1/4" drive extension (3"-6")
- Torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range Nm)
- Trim clip remover tool
- Small flathead screwdriver
- Flashlight
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
š© Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1
- Dielectric grease (spark plug boot grease) - Qty: 1
š Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool (the turbo area can stay hot a long time).
- If you choose to disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and isolate it so it canāt spring back.
šØ Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Use your hands to pull straight up at the corners to release the rubber grommets.
- If your cover uses fasteners instead, remove them with an 8mm socket.
Step 2: Identify the coils and choose what youāre replacing
- On your Escapeās 1.5L inline-3, there are 3 coils lined up on top of the engine.
- Replace just the failed coil or all 3.
Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector
- Press the connector lock tab, then pull the connector straight off.
- If itās stubborn, use a small flathead screwdriver gently on the lock tab (donāt pry on the wires).
Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Use an 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and extension to remove the bolt.
- Set the bolt somewhere safe (itās easy to drop).
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Grab the coil and twist it slightly left-right to break the seal.
- Pull straight up to remove it from the spark plug well.
- If it wonāt budge, re-check that the bolt is fully removed, then wiggle againādonāt force it sideways.
Step 6: Prep and install the new coil
- Put a pea-size amount of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot of the new coil (this helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier).
- Push the coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.
Step 7: Reinstall and torque the hold-down bolt
- Thread the bolt in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolt: Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
Step 8: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks/locks.
- Gently tug to confirm itās fully latched.
Step 9: Reinstall the engine cover
- Line up the cover and press down firmly to seat the grommets.
- If it uses fasteners, tighten with an 8mm socket (snug, do not over-tighten).
ā After Repair
- If you disconnected the battery, reconnect it using a 10mm socket (snug the clamp).
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should run smoothly with no shaking.
- If the check-engine light was on, it may take a few drive cycles to clear on its own. If it stays on, scan for codes to confirm the misfire is gone.
- Road test: light acceleration first, then normal driving. Stop if the check-engine light flashes again.
š° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$500 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$240 (parts only, depending on 1 coil vs all 3)
You Save: $190-$260 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
šÆ Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















