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2019 Mazda CX-5
2013 - 2016 Mazda CX-5
Inline 4 2.0L
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  • Mazda CX-5
  • 2019
  • How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2019 Mazda CX-5 (Fix Misfire & Rough Idle)
How to replace your ignition coils Mazda CX-5 DIY

How to replace your ignition coils Mazda CX-5 DIY

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Tools & Fluids

10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
1/4
1/4
Ratchet
6"
6"
Extension
1/4
1/4
Torque Wrench
Flathead
Flathead
Screwdriver
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How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2019 Mazda CX-5 (Fix Misfire & Rough Idle)

Step-by-step coil swap with required tools/parts, safety tips, OBD2 code checks, and torque specs (8–10 N·m) for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2019 Mazda CX-5 (Fix Misfire & Rough Idle)

Step-by-step coil swap with required tools/parts, safety tips, OBD2 code checks, and torque specs (8–10 N·m) for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

Orion
Orion

🔧 CX-5 - Ignition Coil Replacement

Ignition coils sit on top of each spark plug and create the high voltage needed to fire the plug. Replacing a bad coil can fix misfires, rough idle, and flashing check-engine lights.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a cool engine to avoid burns.
  • ⚠️ Keep the key fob away from the vehicle and make sure ignition is OFF.
  • ⚠️ Don’t pull on wiring—only pull on connectors.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required, but if you’re nervous around electrical connectors, disconnect the negative terminal first.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 1/4" ratchet
  • 6" socket extension (1/4")
  • Torque wrench (in-lb)
  • Small flathead screwdriver
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • OBD2 scan tool

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 4 if replacing all)
  • Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground and let the engine cool fully.
  • If you have an OBD2 scan tool, scan and write down any codes (example: P0301 = cylinder 1 misfire).
  • Replace coils in sets if high mileage.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)

  • Pull straight up on the cover using your hands; it’s held by rubber grommets.
  • If it feels stuck, gently lift at each corner a little at a time.

Step 2: Locate the ignition coils

  • You’ll see 4 coils lined up on top of the valve cover, each with an electrical connector and a small hold-down bolt.

Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector

  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to gently help lift the lock tab if needed (don’t pry hard).
  • Press the tab and pull the connector straight off by hand.
  • If it won’t move, wiggle—don’t yank.

Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt

  • Use a 10mm socket, 1/4" ratchet, and 6" extension to remove the bolt.
  • Set the bolt aside where it won’t fall into the engine bay.

Step 5: Remove the ignition coil

  • Grab the coil body and twist it slightly left/right to break the seal.
  • Pull the coil straight upward to remove it.
  • Term: The rubber “boot” is the long insulated sleeve on the coil that seals around the spark plug.

Step 6: Prep and install the new coil

  • Apply a very small dab of dielectric grease inside the end of the new coil boot (pea-sized). This helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier.
  • Push the new coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.

Step 7: Reinstall the coil bolt and torque it

  • Start the bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 10mm socket to snug it down.
  • Use a torque wrench (in-lb): Torque to 71-89 in-lbs (8-10 N·m).

Step 8: Reconnect the electrical connector

  • Push the connector on until it clicks.
  • Gently tug to confirm it’s locked.

Step 9: Repeat for any other coils you’re replacing

  • Use the same 10mm socket process coil-by-coil.
  • Do one coil at a time to avoid mix-ups.

Step 10: Reinstall the engine cover

  • Line up the cover grommets and press down firmly by hand until it seats.

✅ After Repair

  • Use an OBD2 scan tool to clear codes if the check-engine light was on.
  • Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. Listen/feel for smooth running.
  • Test drive for 10-15 minutes. If the check-engine light flashes or it runs rough, stop and re-check each connector is fully clicked in.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$400 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$250 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours.


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