How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2018 Ford Fusion (Coil-on-Plug)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 62 in-lb (7 Nm) torque spec for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2018 Ford Fusion (Coil-on-Plug)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 62 in-lb (7 Nm) torque spec for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
š§ Fusion - Ignition Coil Replacement
On your Fusion, each cylinder has its own ignition coil mounted on top of the spark plug (called ācoil-on-plugā). Replacing a bad coil is a common fix for a misfire, rough idle, flashing check-engine light, or loss of power.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
ā ļø Safety & Precautions
- ā ļø Work on a cool engine; coils sit near hot components.
- ā ļø Keep tools away from any orange high-voltage cables (hybrid system). You will not be servicing the HV system for this job.
- ā ļø If you disconnect the 12V battery, you may lose radio presets and clock settings.
- ā ļø Recommended: disconnect the 12V negative battery terminal before unplugging ignition components.
š§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3" extension (1/4" drive)
- 10mm wrench
- Trim removal tool (plastic)
- Torque wrench (in-lb)
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
š© Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 4 if replacing all)
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
š Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and power the car OFF.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool.
- Disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal: use a 10mm wrench to loosen the negative clamp and move it aside so it canāt spring back. (The 12V battery is in the trunk area on your Fusion.)
- Tip: Take a quick photo of connectors first.
šØ Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover
- Grip the cover at the corners and pull straight upward to release the rubber grommets.
- If it feels stuck, use a trim removal tool (plastic) to gently lift at a corner.
Step 2: Locate the ignition coils
- The coils are the 4 identical units lined up on top of the engine valve cover.
- Each coil has an electrical connector and a small hold-down bolt.
Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector
- Press the connector lock tab and pull the connector straight off the coil by hand.
- If the tab is stubborn, gently assist with a trim removal tool (plastic)ādonāt pry hard on the wires.
- Tip: Pull the connector body, not the harness.
Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Use an 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 3" extension to remove the coil bolt.
- Set the bolt aside where it wonāt fall into the engine bay.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Grab the coil and twist it gently left-right to break the seal.
- Pull straight upward to remove it from the spark plug well.
- If itās stuck, keep twisting while pullingāavoid using metal pry tools.
Step 6: Install the new ignition coil
- Apply a very thin smear of dielectric grease inside the new coil boot (the rubber part). (Dielectric grease helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier.)
- Push the coil straight down until you feel it fully seat on the spark plug.
Step 7: Reinstall and torque the coil bolt
- Thread the bolt in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use an 8mm socket to snug it down.
- Use a torque wrench (in-lb): Torque to 62 in-lb (7 Nm).
Step 8: Reconnect the coil connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks/locks.
- Do a gentle tug-check to confirm itās fully seated.
Step 9: Reinstall the engine cover and reconnect the 12V battery
- Press the engine cover back down onto the grommets until it seats evenly.
- Reconnect the 12V negative terminal using a 10mm wrench and tighten securely.
ā After Repair
- Start your Fusion and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should run smooth with no shaking.
- If you had a check-engine light, it may take a few drive cycles to go out on its own; best practice is to clear the code with a scan tool.
- Test drive 10-15 minutes with gentle acceleration and confirm no misfire, no flashing check-engine light, and normal power.
- Recheck that all coil connectors are fully clicked in if the engine still runs rough.
š° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $200-$600 (parts + labor, depending on how many coils)
DIY Cost: $40-$320 (parts only, depending on how many coils)
You Save: $160-$280 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
šÆ Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















