How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2018 Ford F-250 Super Duty (Coil-on-Plug)
Step-by-step coil replacement with required tools/parts, safety tips, and 8 Nm (71 in-lb) torque spec for 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2018 Ford F-250 Super Duty (Coil-on-Plug)
Step-by-step coil replacement with required tools/parts, safety tips, and 8 Nm (71 in-lb) torque spec for 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
đź”§ F-250 Super Duty - Ignition Coil Replacement
On your F-250 Super Duty, each cylinder has its own ignition coil (coil-on-plug). Replacing a bad coil restores smooth running and prevents misfires that can damage the catalytic converters.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully; coils sit on hot cylinder heads.
- ⚠️ Keep fuel vapors away from sparks; no smoking/open flames.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging coil connectors.
- ⚠️ Do not pull on wiring; release connector locks first to avoid damage.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3" extension (1/4" drive)
- 6" extension (1/4" drive)
- Torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range ft-lb)
- Trim clip removal tool
- Small flat-blade screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Compressed air blow gun
- Shop vacuum
- Clean shop rags
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 8 if replacing all)
- Dielectric silicone grease - Qty: 1
- Ignition coil boot - Qty: 1 (optional, if torn/oil-soaked)
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable and tuck it aside so it can’t spring back.
- If you’re only replacing one coil: note which cylinder/coil you’re targeting so you don’t mix up connectors.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Use a trim clip removal tool to release any push clips if present.
- Lift the cover straight up by hand; if it resists, check for hidden fasteners.
Step 2: Locate the coil you’re replacing
- Each ignition coil is mounted on top of the valve cover with an electrical connector and a single retaining bolt.
- Take a quick photo before unplugging anything.
Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector
- Release the connector lock using a small flat-blade screwdriver (if equipped), then press the tab and pull the connector straight off.
- Do not yank on the wires—pull on the plastic connector body only.
Step 4: Remove the coil retaining bolt
- Use an 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and a 3" extension to remove the bolt.
- Set the bolt aside where it won’t fall into the engine bay.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Twist the coil slightly by hand to break the seal, then pull straight upward.
- If it’s stubborn, gently wiggle—don’t pry hard against plastic parts.
- Use a compressed air blow gun and/or shop vacuum to remove dirt around the spark plug well so nothing falls in.
Step 6: Prep the new coil
- Apply a pea-sized amount of dielectric silicone grease inside the coil boot (the rubber end). This helps sealing and future removal.
- Dielectric grease is non-conductive; use a thin film.
Step 7: Install the new coil
- Push the coil straight down until it seats fully on the spark plug.
- Install the retaining bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten using an 8mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
Step 8: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks.
- Re-engage the connector lock (if equipped).
Step 9: Reinstall the engine cover
- Press the cover back into its mounts by hand.
- Reinstall any clips using a trim clip removal tool as needed.
Step 10: Reconnect the battery
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
âś… After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should run smooth with no shaking.
- If the check engine light was on, it may clear after a few drive cycles. If it stays on, you’ll want the codes read to confirm the misfire is gone.
- Road-test for 10-15 minutes and recheck for any stumble under acceleration.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $200-$600 (parts + labor, depending on how many coils)
DIY Cost: $40-$400 (parts only, depending on how many coils)
You Save: $160-$200+ by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
















