🔧 F-150 - Ignition Coil Replacement

Replacing the ignition coils on your F-150 restores strong spark to the cylinders and can fix misfires, rough idle, hesitation, and a flashing check engine light. The 2.7L EcoBoost uses six coil-on-plug ignition coils, meaning each coil sits directly on top of its spark plug.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before starting because the turbocharged engine bay gets very hot.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging ignition coils.
• ⚠️ Do not pull on wires; pull only on the plastic connector body.
• ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the spark plug wells. A spark plug well is the deep hole where the spark plug and coil boot sit.
• ⚠️ If the check engine light is flashing, avoid driving until the misfire is repaired to protect the catalytic converters.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 1/4-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 6-inch extension
• Torque wrench in-lb range
• Small flathead screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Compressed air blow gun
• Flashlight
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Ignition coil - Qty: 1-6 as needed
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 small tube

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your F-150 on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• ❄️ Let the engine cool fully before touching engine parts.
• 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
• 🧼 Blow loose dirt away from the top of the engine before removing any coils.
• 💡 If replacing only one failed coil, replace it at the cylinder identified by the diagnostic trouble code.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the Engine Cover

• Use both hands to pull the plastic engine cover straight upward from its rubber mounts.
• Set the cover aside in a safe place.
• Pull evenly, not from one corner.

Step 2: Disconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to loosen the negative battery terminal nut.
• Lift the negative cable off the battery post and move it aside.
• This helps prevent accidental electrical shorts.

Step 3: Locate the Ignition Coils

• Use a flashlight to find the six ignition coils on top and along the sides of the engine.
• Each ignition coil has one electrical connector and one small retaining bolt.
• A coil-on-plug coil is a small electrical unit that creates spark directly at one spark plug.

Step 4: Move Harness Clips or Small Brackets if Needed

• Use a trim clip removal tool to gently release any wiring harness clips blocking the coil.
• A trim clip removal tool is a small fork-shaped tool that lifts plastic clips without breaking them.
• Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket to remove any small bracket fasteners blocking hand access.
• Keep removed bolts grouped by location.

Step 5: Clean Around the Coil

• Put on safety glasses.
• Use a compressed air blow gun to blow dust and grit away from the coil and spark plug well.
• A compressed air blow gun uses shop air to safely push dirt away from tight areas.

Step 6: Unplug the Coil Connector

• Press the connector locking tab with your thumb.
• If the tab is stiff, use a small flathead screwdriver to gently help release it.
• Pull the connector straight off by the plastic body, not the wires.

Step 7: Remove the Coil Retaining Bolt

• Use an 8mm socket, 6-inch extension, and 1/4-inch drive ratchet to remove the ignition coil retaining bolt.
• Place the bolt somewhere safe so it does not fall into the engine bay.

Step 8: Remove the Old Ignition Coil

• Grip the ignition coil body by hand.
• Twist the coil gently left and right to loosen the rubber boot.
• Pull the coil straight up and out of the spark plug well.
• Do not pry against the plastic coil body.

Step 9: Inspect the Removed Coil

• Check the rubber boot for cracks, oil, coolant, or gray-black burn marks.
• Burn marks, called carbon tracking, show where spark may have leaked outside the plug path.
• If oil is pooled in the spark plug well, the valve cover sealing area may need repair before the new coil is installed.

Step 10: Prepare the New Coil

• Apply a tiny amount of dielectric grease inside the end of the new coil boot.
• Dielectric grease is a silicone grease that seals out moisture but does not conduct electricity.
• Do not fill the boot with grease.
• A pea-sized amount is plenty.

Step 11: Install the New Ignition Coil

• Slide the new coil straight down into the spark plug well by hand.
• Push down gently until the boot seats onto the spark plug.
• Line up the coil bolt hole with the mounting point.

Step 12: Tighten the Coil Bolt

• Start the coil retaining bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use an 8mm socket, 6-inch extension, and torque wrench in-lb range to tighten the bolt.
• Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs)

Step 13: Reconnect the Coil Connector

• Push the electrical connector onto the ignition coil until it clicks.
• Lightly pull on the connector body by hand to make sure it is locked.

Step 14: Repeat for Any Other Coils

• If replacing more than one ignition coil, repeat Steps 4-13 for each coil.
• Work on one coil at a time so connectors stay in the correct place.

Step 15: Reinstall Clips, Brackets, and Engine Cover

• Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket to reinstall any brackets removed for access.
• Use your hands to snap wiring harness clips back into place.
• Align the engine cover with its rubber mounts and press it down by hand until seated.

Step 16: Reconnect the Battery

• Place the negative battery cable back onto the negative battery post.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to tighten the terminal nut snugly.
• Do not overtighten the terminal.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes.
• ✅ Listen for a smooth idle and check that the engine is not shaking.
• ✅ If the check engine light was on, use a scan tool to clear stored misfire codes after the repair.
• ✅ Take a short test drive and confirm smooth acceleration.
• ✅ Recheck that all connectors, clips, and brackets are secure.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $135-$230 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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