How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2017 Honda Accord V6
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2017 Honda Accord V6
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Ignition Coils - Replacement
Replacing the ignition coils on your Accord can fix misfires, rough idle, hard starting, and check-engine lights. On the V6, the front bank coils are easy to reach, but the rear bank coils sit under the intake manifold and take more work.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Let the engine cool fully before starting.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging coils. The battery is the 12-volt power source.
- Do not pull on ignition coil wiring by hand; use the connector tab.
- Keep dirt out of the spark plug wells. Debris can fall into the cylinder.
- If you remove the intake manifold, replace the seals and gaskets as needed.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 8mm socket
- 3/8-inch ratchet
- 3-inch extension
- 6-inch extension
- Torque wrench
- Flat-blade trim tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Dielectric grease
- Fender cover
- Gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil set - Qty: 6
- Intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1
- Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool down so you do not burn your hands.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging any ignition parts.
- Work clean. Keep bolts and connectors organized.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect power
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the negative battery cable from the battery.
- Move the cable aside so it cannot touch the battery terminal.
Step 2: Remove the engine cover and intake duct
- Lift off the engine cover by hand.
- Use an 8mm socket and flat-blade trim tool to loosen and remove the air intake duct and any clamps in the way.
- Set the ducting aside so the front of the engine is open.
Step 3: Replace the front bank ignition coils
- On the front side of the engine, unplug each ignition coil connector by pressing the release tab.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove each coil hold-down bolt.
- Pull each coil straight up.
- Apply a thin film of dielectric grease inside the coil boot. Dielectric grease helps protect the electrical connection from moisture.
- Install the new coils and tighten the bolts to 12 N·m (9 lb-ft).
- Reconnect each coil connector until it clicks.
Step 4: Remove the intake manifold for rear bank access
- Use an 8mm socket and 10mm socket to remove the intake tube, throttle body connections, vacuum hoses, and harness clips attached to the upper intake area.
- Unplug the throttle body connector and any related sensors you need to move.
- Use a 10mm socket with a 6-inch extension to remove the intake manifold bolts/nuts.
- Lift the intake manifold off carefully.
- Replace the intake manifold gasket and throttle body gasket if removed or damaged.
- Keep the ports covered.
Step 5: Replace the rear bank ignition coils
- Unplug the rear coil connectors.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the rear coil hold-down bolts.
- Pull the coils straight out.
- Install the new rear coils with a light coat of dielectric grease in the boot.
- Tighten the coil bolts to 12 N·m (9 lb-ft).
- Reconnect the rear coil connectors.
Step 6: Reinstall the intake manifold
- Set the manifold back in place with fresh gaskets.
- Use a 10mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the manifold fasteners evenly in a crisscross pattern to 22 N·m (16 lb-ft).
- Reconnect all vacuum lines, sensors, and the throttle body connector.
- Reinstall the intake duct and clamps using the 8mm socket.
Step 7: Reconnect power and verify
- Reconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket.
- Start the engine and let it idle.
- Check for rough running, warning lights, or loose connectors.
- If the check-engine light was on, clear codes with a scan tool after confirming the repair.
✅ After Repair
- Listen for a smooth idle and normal acceleration.
- Check that no engine light returns.
- If a misfire code returns, inspect the spark plugs next.
- Take a short test drive and recheck for leaks or loose intake parts.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$950 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only)
You Save: $270-$530 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
















