How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 Nissan Rogue 2.5L (Misfire Fix)
Step-by-step ignition coil replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 62 in-lb (7 Nm) torque spec for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 Nissan Rogue 2.5L (Misfire Fix)
Step-by-step ignition coil replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 62 in-lb (7 Nm) torque spec for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Rogue - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Rogue uses one ignition coil per cylinder (4 total). Replacing a bad coil restores smooth idle, power, and stops misfire issues (often felt as shaking, flashing check-engine light, or hesitation).
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours
Assumption: 2.5L engine with coils on top of the valve cover.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully; coils sit near hot parts.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental shorting.
- ⚠️ If the check-engine light is flashing, avoid driving until repaired (can damage the catalytic converter).
- ⚠️ Pull on connectors, not wires; torn wiring causes new misfires.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 6" 1/4" drive extension
- Flat trim tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Torque wrench (in-lb or low-range ft-lb)
- Shop flashlight
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1-4
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and move it aside so it can’t spring back.
- Take a quick photo of the top of the engine.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Grip the cover with both hands and pull upward to release the rubber grommets.
- If your cover uses fasteners, remove them with a 10mm socket.
Step 2: Move the air intake duct for access (if it blocks the coils)
- Loosen the hose clamps using a flathead screwdriver.
- Disconnect any small hose/clip by releasing the lock tab with a flat trim tool.
- Lift the duct out and set it aside gently.
Step 3: Unplug the ignition coil electrical connector
- Press the connector lock tab and pull the connector straight off.
- If it’s stubborn, use a flat trim tool to help lift the tab (do not pry on the wires).
- Wiggle the connector, don’t yank.
Step 4: Remove the ignition coil hold-down bolt
- Use a 10mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, and 6" extension to remove the coil bolt.
- Set the bolt aside where it can’t fall into the engine bay.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Twist the coil slightly left-right to break the seal, then pull straight up.
- If it feels stuck, keep twisting while pulling upward—avoid using metal tools on the valve cover.
Step 6: Prep and install the new coil
- Put a very small dab of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot; this helps prevent moisture and future sticking (it’s a non-conductive grease for electrical boots).
- Push the new coil straight down until you feel it seat on the spark plug.
Step 7: Reinstall and torque the coil hold-down bolt
- Hand-thread the bolt first to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten using a torque wrench: Torque to 62 in-lbs (7 Nm).
Step 8: Reconnect the coil connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks.
- Lightly tug to confirm it’s locked.
Step 9: Repeat for remaining coils (if replacing more than one)
- Replace coils one at a time so connectors don’t get mixed up.
Step 10: Reinstall the intake duct and engine cover
- Reinstall the intake duct and tighten clamps with a flathead screwdriver.
- Reinstall the engine cover by pressing it onto the grommets (or reinstall fasteners with a 10mm socket).
Step 11: Reconnect the battery
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should run smoothly with no shaking.
- Listen for air leaks (hissing) around the intake duct; re-tighten clamps if needed.
- If the check-engine light stays on, the code may need clearing after the repair (some lights clear after a few drive cycles if the problem is fixed).
- Do a short test drive and re-check that everything is secure.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$400 (parts only)
You Save: $190-$250 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















