How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 Kia Soul (1.6L) – Coil-on-Plug DIY
Step-by-step ignition coil swap with tools list, parts, safety tips, and torque spec (87 in-lbs) for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 Kia Soul (1.6L) – Coil-on-Plug DIY
Step-by-step ignition coil swap with tools list, parts, safety tips, and torque spec (87 in-lbs) for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Soul - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Soul uses a coil-on-plug ignition system (each cylinder has its own ignition coil mounted directly on the spark plug). Replacing a bad coil can fix misfires, rough idle, flashing check engine light, and loss of power.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
Assumption: 1.6L coil-on-plug coils under a plastic engine cover.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cool engine to avoid burns.
- ⚠️ Keep tools away from the battery positive terminal to prevent shorts.
- ⚠️ If your check engine light is flashing, avoid driving until the misfire is fixed (can damage the catalytic converter).
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required, but it’s safer to disconnect the negative terminal if you’re nervous about electrical connectors.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 6" extension (1/4" drive)
- Torque wrench (in-lb or low-range ft-lb)
- Small flathead screwdriver
- Flashlight
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 4 if replacing all)
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to neutral, and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool fully.
- If disconnecting the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative battery cable and tuck it aside so it can’t spring back.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Use your hands to pull up on the plastic engine cover to pop it off its rubber grommets.
- If yours has bolts instead: use a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet to remove them.
Step 2: Locate the ignition coils
- Use a flashlight to find the row of coils on top of the valve cover (one coil per cylinder).
Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector
- Press the connector lock tab with your finger and pull the connector straight back.
- If the tab is stubborn, gently help it with a small flathead screwdriver (don’t pry hard). Plastic tabs break easily.
Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Use a 10mm socket, 6" extension (1/4" drive), and 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the coil bolt.
- Set the bolt somewhere safe so it can’t fall into the engine bay.
Step 5: Pull the ignition coil out
- Grip the coil body and pull straight upward while gently twisting.
- If it feels stuck, keep twisting gently—don’t use excessive force.
Step 6: Prep the new coil
- Apply a tiny amount of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot (the rubber sleeve that goes over the spark plug). Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier.
- Make sure the new coil matches the old one (connector shape and length).
Step 7: Install the new coil
- Push the coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.
- Reinstall the hold-down bolt by hand first (to avoid cross-threading), then tighten with a 10mm socket.
- Use a torque wrench (in-lb or low-range ft-lb): Torque to 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs / 7.2 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks/locks.
- Gently tug it to confirm it’s secured.
Step 9: Repeat for other coils (if replacing more than one)
- Do one coil at a time so you don’t mix up connectors.
Step 10: Reinstall the engine cover
- Align the cover and press down firmly to seat the grommets.
- If bolts were used, tighten with a 10mm socket (snug, not over-tight).
✅ After Repair
- Reconnect the battery negative cable (if removed) using a 10mm socket.
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should run smooth with no shaking.
- If the check engine light stays on, you may need to clear stored codes with a scan tool (many parts stores can do this), but the fix should stop the misfire immediately.
- Test drive for 10 minutes and confirm no hesitation under acceleration.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$450 (parts + labor, depends on replacing 1 coil vs all 4)
DIY Cost: $40-$280 (parts only)
You Save: $140-$170+ by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















