How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 Kia Optima (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs (8–10 Nm) for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 Kia Optima (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs (8–10 Nm) for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
đź”§ Optima - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Optima uses “coil-on-plug” ignition coils (one coil per cylinder) mounted on top of the engine. Replacing a bad coil can fix misfires, rough running, and a flashing check-engine light.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before working near the valve cover and exhaust heat.
- ⚠️ Hybrid safety: make sure the car is OFF (not READY) and keep the key fob at least 10 feet away.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V negative battery cable to prevent accidental starts and protect electronics.
- ⚠️ Don’t pull on wiring—always release the connector lock and pull on the plug body.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3" socket extension
- Torque wrench (in-lb or small Nm range)
- Trim clip tool
- Small flathead screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Shop rags
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1-4
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Power the car OFF and confirm the dash is fully off (not READY).
- Open the trunk/hood first, then disconnect the 12V battery negative cable (the “negative” cable is the one with a “-” symbol).
- Lay out coils in order (cylinder 1-4) so nothing gets mixed up.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Use a trim clip tool to pop up any push-clips if your cover has them.
- Lift the cover straight up by hand; it’s held by rubber grommets.
- Pull straight up to avoid cracking it.
Step 2: Locate the ignition coils
- The coils are on top of the valve cover, one per cylinder, each with an electrical connector and a small hold-down bolt.
- Use a shop rag to wipe dirt away around the coils so nothing falls into the spark plug wells.
Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector
- Use a small flathead screwdriver to gently lift/release the connector lock tab (do not pry hard).
- Pull the connector straight off by hand (don’t pull on the wires).
Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Use a 10mm socket with a 3" socket extension and 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the bolt.
- Set the bolt aside where it can’t fall into the engine bay.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Twist the coil slightly left-right by hand to break the seal, then pull straight up.
- If it feels stuck, use gentle rocking—do not use excessive force.
Step 6: Prep and install the new coil
- Put a tiny smear of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot (this helps prevent moisture issues and makes future removal easier).
- Push the new coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.
Step 7: Reinstall the hold-down bolt
- Thread the bolt in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a torque wrench (in-lb or small Nm range) to tighten the bolt: Torque to 8-10 Nm (71-89 in-lbs).
Step 8: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks/locks into place.
- Give it a gentle tug to confirm it’s fully seated.
Step 9: Repeat for remaining coils (if replacing more than one)
- Use the same 10mm socket process coil-by-coil so you don’t mix anything up.
Step 10: Reinstall the engine cover and reconnect the battery
- Press the engine cover back onto its grommets by hand.
- Reconnect the 12V negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and snug it firmly (do not overtighten).
âś… After Repair
- Start the car and confirm it idles smoothly (no shaking).
- If the check-engine light was on for a misfire, it may take a few drive cycles to turn off, or you can clear it with a scan tool.
- Test drive 10-15 minutes and recheck for any warning lights.
- If a misfire remains, the next common cause is spark plugs or a fuel/air issue.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $80-$320 (parts only)
You Save: $170-$330 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















