How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 Honda Accord 2.4L (Torque Specs Included)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug removal and install guide with tools, parts, safety tips, and 12 Nm (9 ft-lb) torque spec for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 Honda Accord 2.4L (Torque Specs Included)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug removal and install guide with tools, parts, safety tips, and 12 Nm (9 ft-lb) torque spec for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
š§ Accord - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Accord uses coil-on-plug ignition coils (one coil per cylinder) mounted on top of the engine. Replacing a weak coil can fix misfires, rough idle, flashing check-engine light, and poor acceleration.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
Assumption: 2.4L engine with 4 coil-on-plug coils on top of valve cover.
ā ļø Safety & Precautions
- ā ļø Work on a cool engine to avoid burns.
- ā ļø Turn ignition fully OFF and keep the key away from the car while unplugging coils.
- ā ļø Disconnecting the battery is recommended to prevent accidental shorts.
- ā ļø Pull on electrical connectors by the plug body, not the wires.
š§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 6" extension (1/4" drive)
- Torque wrench (in-lb or small ft-lb range)
- Small flat trim tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Shop light
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
š© Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Replace in sets (recommended) - Qty: 4
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
š Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to neutral, set the parking brake, and open the hood.
- Let the engine fully cool.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable: use a 10mm socket to loosen the terminal and move it aside so it canāt spring back.
- If your Accord has a plastic engine cover, remove it to access the coils (fasteners vary by cover style).
šØ Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Locate the ignition coils
- The coils are lined up on top of the engine on the valve cover (one per cylinder).
- Use a shop light to clearly see each coil and its electrical connector.
Step 2: Unplug the coil electrical connector
- Press the connector lock tab and pull the connector straight back off the coil.
- If the tab is stubborn, use a small flat trim tool to gently lift the lock while pulling the connector.
- Donāt pry hardātabs break easily.
Step 3: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Use a 10mm socket, 6" extension (1/4" drive), and ratchet to remove the single bolt holding the coil down.
- Set the bolt aside where it wonāt fall into the engine bay.
Step 4: Remove the ignition coil
- Grip the coil body and twist it gently left-right to break the seal, then pull straight up.
- If itās stuck, use needle-nose pliers only to help grip the coil body (do not crush it).
Step 5: Prep and install the new coil
- Put a very small dab of dielectric grease inside the new coil boot (the rubber tube). Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier.
- Push the new coil straight down onto the spark plug until it fully seats.
Step 6: Reinstall the coil bolt and torque it
- Start the bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 10mm socket to snug it down.
- Use a torque wrench to finish tightening: Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs). A torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to an exact setting so you donāt strip threads.
Step 7: Plug the connector back in
- Push the connector onto the coil until it clicks/locks.
- Lightly tug it to confirm itās fully latched.
Step 8: Repeat for the remaining coils
- Replace the other coils one at a time so you donāt mix up connectors.
- If youāre only replacing one bad coil, keep the others in placeābut replacing all four is the most reliable long-term fix.
Step 9: Reinstall covers and reconnect the battery
- Reinstall the engine cover (if equipped).
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket and tighten until snug.
ā After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should be smooth and steady.
- If the check-engine light was on, use a scan tool to clear codes and confirm no misfire codes return.
- Take a short test drive and recheck for any flashing check-engine light (flashing means active misfireāstop driving).
- Recheck that all coil connectors are fully clicked in if you feel a new misfire.
š° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$400 (parts only)
You Save: $130-$200 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
šÆ Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















