How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 GMC Yukon (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil swap with tools/parts list, safety tips, and 89 in-lb (10 Nm) torque spec for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 GMC Yukon (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil swap with tools/parts list, safety tips, and 89 in-lb (10 Nm) torque spec for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023
đź”§ Yukon Denali - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Yukon Denali uses one ignition coil per cylinder to create the high-voltage spark the engine needs. Replacing a weak or failed coil can fix misfires, rough idle, flashing check-engine light, and loss of power.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cool engine to avoid burns (coils sit near hot parts).
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable if you’ll be unplugging multiple coils at once.
- ⚠️ Don’t pull on the wiring; press the connector lock and pull the plug body.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the spark plug wells; wipe the area before removing wires.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 6" socket extension (1/4")
- Torque wrench (in-lb)
- Small flat trim tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Shop towels
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 8 if replacing all)
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
- Ignition coil wiring connector pigtail (optional) - Qty: 1 (only if connector is broken/brittle)
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine fully cool.
- If you’re doing more than one coil: use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable and move it aside.
- Tip: Replace coils one at a time to avoid mix-ups.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover
- Grab the cover at the corners and pull straight up to release the rubber grommets.
- Set it aside where it won’t get scratched.
Step 2: Locate the coil you’re replacing
- The coils sit on top of the valve covers, with a short plug wire running from each coil to its spark plug.
- Use a shop towel to wipe dust off around the coil and wire ends.
Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector
- Use a small flat trim tool to gently lift the connector lock (a small safety tab), then press the release and pull the connector off.
- Tip: Wiggle the connector—don’t yank.
Step 4: Remove the spark plug wire from the coil
- Grip the boot (the thick rubber end), twist it a little to break it free, then pull it off the coil.
- If it’s tight, use needle-nose pliers gently on the boot only (not the wire).
Step 5: Unbolt and remove the coil
- Use a 10mm socket, 6" extension, and 1/4" ratchet to remove the coil mounting bolts.
- Lift the coil straight off the valve cover bracket.
Step 6: Install the new coil
- Set the new coil in place and start the bolts by hand (this prevents cross-threading).
- Use a torque wrench (in-lb) with a 10mm socket to tighten the coil bolts: Torque to 89 in-lb (10 Nm).
Step 7: Reconnect the spark plug wire
- Apply a pea-sized amount of dielectric grease inside the wire boot (this helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier).
- Push the boot onto the coil until you feel it seat firmly.
- Make sure the wire routing matches the original path and isn’t touching sharp edges or hot exhaust parts.
Step 8: Reconnect the coil electrical connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks.
- Re-engage the connector lock so it can’t back out.
Step 9: Reinstall the engine cover
- Line up the cover over its mounting points and press down firmly to seat the grommets.
Step 10: Reconnect the battery (if disconnected)
- Use a 10mm socket to tighten the negative battery terminal securely.
âś… After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should run smooth with no shaking.
- If the check-engine light was flashing before, confirm it is no longer flashing.
- Road-test for 10 minutes and recheck for a check-engine light.
- If you have a scan tool, clear stored misfire codes and confirm none return.
- Tip: If misfire stays, check the plug and wire.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$450 (single coil) / $700-$1,400 (all 8 coils)
DIY Cost: $35-$90 (single coil) / $280-$720 (all 8 coils)
You Save: $145-$680 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















