How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 BMW X1 (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools and parts, safety tips, and ignition coil torque specs for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 BMW X1 (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools and parts, safety tips, and ignition coil torque specs for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021
đź”§ X1 - Ignition Coil Replacement
Ignition coils sit on top of the spark plugs and create the high-voltage spark your engine needs. Replacing weak or failed coils can fix misfires, rough idle, and flashing check-engine lights.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours
Assumption: Your X1’s coils are pull-up “pencil” coils on top of the engine (most common setup).
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully; coils sit near hot metal.
- ⚠️ Keep the ignition OFF and the key away from the vehicle while unplugging coils.
- ⚠️ Do not pull on wiring; release connectors by the lock tab.
- ⚠️ If the check-engine light was flashing, avoid driving until fixed (can damage the catalytic converter).
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
- Trim removal tool (plastic pry tool)
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 10mm socket
- Torx T25 bit socket
- Small pick tool
- Ignition coil puller (specialty)
- Torque wrench (inch-pound or small Nm range)
- Flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 4
- Dielectric grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
- Spark plugs - Qty: 4 (recommended if due/unknown)
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and make sure the engine is cool to the touch.
- Lay out coils in order (Cylinder 1 to 4) to avoid mixing parts during diagnosis.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover
- Use a trim removal tool (plastic pry tool) to gently pry up the engine cover at the corners.
- If your cover has fasteners, remove them with a 10mm socket or Torx T25 bit socket (varies by cover style).
- Lift the cover off and set it aside.
Step 2: Identify the coils and connectors
- You’ll see 4 coils in a row on top of the engine, each sitting over a spark plug.
- Each coil has an electrical connector with a locking tab (a small “lock” that must be released before unplugging).
Step 3: Unplug the electrical connector from each coil
- Use a small pick tool to help lift the connector lock if it’s tight. Be gentle—plastic gets brittle.
- Once unlocked, pull the connector straight off the coil by holding the connector body (not the wires).
Step 4: Remove each ignition coil
- If your coil has a small hold-down bolt/bracket, remove it with a 10mm socket or Torx T25 bit socket (varies by version).
- Pull the coil straight up. If it’s stuck, use an ignition coil puller (specialty) (a tool that hooks the coil so you can lift evenly without cracking it).
- Set the old coil aside and repeat for the remaining cylinders.
Step 5: Prep and install the new coils
- Put a tiny dab of dielectric grease (silicone) inside the rubber boot of each new coil. Thin film only—don’t pack it.
- Push each new coil straight down onto its spark plug until you feel it seat firmly.
- If your version uses hold-down bolts/brackets, reinstall them and Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
Step 6: Reconnect the coil connectors
- Push each connector onto the coil until it clicks/locks.
- Do a quick tug-check on the connector body to confirm it’s secure.
Step 7: Reinstall the engine cover
- Set the cover back in place and press down evenly to seat the grommets.
- If your cover uses fasteners, tighten them with a 10mm socket or Torx T25 bit socket until snug. Do not over-tighten plastic.
âś… After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should run smoothly.
- If you have a scan tool, clear misfire codes and confirm they don’t return.
- Test drive 10-15 minutes and recheck for a check-engine light.
- If it still misfires, the next most common causes are spark plugs, fuel injector issues, or vacuum/boost leaks.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $300-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$320 (parts only)
You Save: $180-$330 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















