How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 Acura TLX (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs) torque spec for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 Acura TLX (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs) torque spec for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 TLX - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your TLX uses coil-on-plug ignition coils (one coil per cylinder). Replacing a bad coil restores smooth idle, power, and prevents misfires that can damage the catalytic converter.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine fully cool before working around the valve cover and coils.
- ⚠️ Keep the key away from the car so it can’t be accidentally started.
- ⚠️ Avoid pulling on wiring; always unplug by the connector release tab.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended: remove negative terminal first to reduce short-circuit risk.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 6" extension (1/4" drive)
- Torque wrench (inch-pound or small ft-lb)
- Small flathead screwdriver
- Pick tool
- Shop light
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 4 if replacing all)
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
- If disconnecting the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and tuck it aside so it can’t spring back.
- Replace coils one-by-one to avoid mix-ups.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Lift up at the corners to pop it off the rubber grommets (it’s a press-fit cover).
- If your cover uses fasteners, remove them with a 10mm socket.
Step 2: Locate the ignition coils
- The coils sit on top of the valve cover, one per cylinder, in a row.
- Use a shop light so you can clearly see the connector locks and bolts.
Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector
- Press the connector release tab and pull the connector straight off.
- If it’s stuck, gently help the tab with a small flathead screwdriver (do not pry hard on the plastic).
Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Use a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 6" extension to remove the bolt.
- Set the bolt aside where it won’t fall into the engine bay.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Grip the coil body and twist slightly left-right, then pull straight up to remove it.
- If the boot is stuck to the spark plug, use a pick tool carefully around the boot edge to break the seal.
Step 6: Install the new coil
- Apply a very small dab of dielectric grease inside the coil boot. (Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier.)
- Push the coil straight down until you feel it fully seat on the spark plug.
Step 7: Reinstall and torque the coil bolt
- Start the bolt by hand a few turns to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a torque wrench to tighten the coil bolt: Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs). (A torque wrench tightens to an exact setting so you don’t strip threads.)
Step 8: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks and feels locked.
- Give it a gentle tug to confirm it’s fully seated.
Step 9: Repeat for any other coils you’re replacing
- Follow the same steps for the remaining cylinders.
- If one failed, others may be close behind.
Step 10: Reinstall the engine cover and reconnect the battery
- Press the engine cover back onto the grommets until it snaps in place.
- If disconnected, reinstall the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket and tighten snugly.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should run smooth with no flashing check engine light.
- Do a short test drive and verify normal acceleration and no hesitation.
- If the check engine light was on, use a scan tool to clear codes and confirm the misfire does not return.
- If a misfire remains on the same cylinder, the spark plug or injector may be the cause.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$320 (parts only)
You Save: $120-$130 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















