How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016-2022 Honda Pilot 3.5L V6 (Trim: EX | Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and misfire testing for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016-2022 Honda Pilot 3.5L V6 (Trim: EX | Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and misfire testing for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
🔧 Pilot - Ignition Coil Replacement
Replacing the ignition coils on your Pilot restores strong spark to the engine cylinders and can fix misfires, rough idle, poor acceleration, or a flashing check engine light. The 3.5L V6 uses one coil per cylinder, mounted directly on top of each spark plug.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work only on a cool engine to avoid burns from the intake manifold and cylinder heads.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging ignition coils to prevent accidental electrical shorts.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt and debris out of the spark plug wells. Debris can fall into the engine if the spark plugs are removed later.
- ⚠️ Do not pull on the coil wiring. Always release the connector tab and pull from the plastic connector body.
- ⚠️ If the check engine light is flashing, avoid driving until the repair is complete. A misfire can damage the catalytic converter.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
- Torque wrench inch-pound range
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Compressed air nozzle
- OBD2 scan tool
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1-6
- Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1, if removing intake manifold for rear bank access
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 tube
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Pilot on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable, then move the cable aside so it cannot touch the battery post.
- If replacing only one failed coil, use an OBD2 scan tool to read the misfire code first. Codes P0301-P0306 identify the cylinder number.
- An OBD2 scan tool is a small diagnostic tool that plugs into the vehicle’s diagnostic port to read and clear trouble codes.
- The front cylinder bank is easier to reach. The rear cylinder bank may require moving intake ducting and, depending on access, removing the upper intake manifold.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the Engine Cover
- Use your hands to lift the plastic engine cover straight upward from its rubber mounts.
- If the cover feels stuck, use a trim clip removal tool gently near the mounting points.
- Set the cover aside where it will not get scratched.
- Pull evenly, not at an angle.
Step 2: Disconnect the Negative Battery Cable
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to loosen the negative battery terminal nut.
- Lift the negative cable off the battery post.
- Wrap the cable end with a clean rag or position it away from the battery so it cannot spring back.
Step 3: Locate the Ignition Coils
- Look on top of each valve cover for the ignition coils. Each coil has one electrical connector and one 10mm hold-down bolt.
- An ignition coil is the small electrical part that sends high voltage to the spark plug.
- There are six coils total on the 3.5L V6, one for each cylinder.
Step 4: Improve Access to the Coil Area
- Use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the air intake tube clamps if the intake tube blocks your hand access.
- Use needle-nose pliers to release any small hose clamps attached to the intake tube.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove any intake duct support fasteners if needed.
- Move the intake tube aside carefully without forcing wiring or hoses.
Step 5: Clean Around the Coil
- Put on safety glasses before using compressed air.
- Use a compressed air nozzle to blow dirt away from the top of the coil and spark plug well area.
- This helps stop debris from falling into the plug well when the coil is removed.
Step 6: Unplug the Ignition Coil Connector
- Press the connector release tab with your thumb or a flathead screwdriver.
- Pull the connector straight off the coil by the plastic body.
- Do not pull on the wires.
- If the connector is stuck, use a flathead screwdriver gently under the connector edge while pressing the release tab.
- Plastic tabs get brittle with age.
Step 7: Remove the Coil Hold-Down Bolt
- Use a 10mm socket, 3/8-inch drive extension, and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the ignition coil bolt.
- Place the bolt in a small tray so it does not fall into the engine bay.
Step 8: Remove the Old Ignition Coil
- Grip the top of the coil firmly by hand.
- Twist the coil gently left and right to loosen the rubber boot from the spark plug.
- Pull the coil straight upward out of the spark plug well.
- If the boot sticks, continue twisting gently. Do not pry hard against the valve cover.
Step 9: Inspect the Old Coil and Spark Plug Well
- Check the removed coil boot for oil, coolant, cracking, carbon tracking, or burn marks.
- Carbon tracking looks like a thin black lightning-shaped line on the coil boot.
- If there is oil inside the spark plug well, the valve cover tube seal may be leaking and should be repaired before installing a new coil.
- Use a flashlight if needed to inspect the well.
Step 10: Prepare the New Ignition Coil
- Apply a small pea-sized amount of dielectric grease inside the end of the new coil boot.
- Dielectric grease is a non-conductive silicone grease that helps seal out moisture and makes future removal easier.
- Do not pack the boot full of grease.
Step 11: Install the New Ignition Coil
- Push the new ignition coil straight down into the spark plug well by hand.
- You should feel the boot seat onto the spark plug.
- Align the coil mounting ear with the bolt hole.
Step 12: Tighten the Coil Bolt
- Start the 10mm coil bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 10mm socket and torque wrench inch-pound range to tighten the coil bolt.
- Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs)
- Do not overtighten. The valve cover threads can be damaged.
Step 13: Reconnect the Electrical Connector
- Push the coil electrical connector onto the new coil until it clicks.
- Lightly tug the connector by the plastic body to confirm it is locked.
Step 14: Repeat for Additional Coils
- Repeat Steps 5-13 for each ignition coil being replaced.
- Use the same 10mm socket, extension, ratchet, and torque wrench for each coil bolt.
- If replacing all six coils, keep the work area organized and replace one coil at a time.
- One-at-a-time prevents connector mix-ups.
Step 15: Rear Bank Access If Needed
- If your hand cannot reach the rear bank coils safely, remove the intake air duct using a flathead screwdriver and 10mm socket.
- If more room is still needed, use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the upper intake manifold mounting bolts.
- Lift the upper intake manifold only enough to access the rear coils if possible, without stressing hoses or wiring.
- Replace the upper intake manifold gaskets if the manifold is fully removed.
- When reinstalling the upper intake manifold, use a 12mm socket and torque wrench.
- Torque to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs)
- Tighten the intake manifold bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern.
Step 16: Reinstall Intake Parts
- Use a flathead screwdriver to tighten the air intake tube clamps securely.
- Use needle-nose pliers to reinstall any hose clamps removed earlier.
- Use a 10mm socket to reinstall any intake duct support fasteners.
- Make sure all hoses and wiring connectors are back in their original positions.
Step 17: Reconnect the Battery
- Place the negative battery cable back onto the battery post.
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to tighten the terminal nut snugly.
- Do not overtighten the battery terminal.
Step 18: Reinstall the Engine Cover
- Line up the plastic engine cover with the rubber mounting posts.
- Press down firmly by hand until the cover snaps into place.
Step 19: Clear Codes and Test Run
- Plug the OBD2 scan tool into the diagnostic port under the driver side of the dashboard.
- Use the OBD2 scan tool to clear stored misfire codes.
- Start the engine and let it idle for several minutes.
- Listen for smooth idle and check that the check engine light does not return.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Take your Pilot on a short 10-15 minute test drive with light acceleration first.
- ✅ Recheck for warning lights after the test drive.
- ✅ Use the OBD2 scan tool to confirm there are no pending misfire codes.
- ✅ If the same misfire code returns, inspect the spark plug, fuel injector, wiring, and compression for that cylinder.
- ✅ If the idle is rough immediately after battery disconnect, let the engine idle with all accessories off for a few minutes so the idle can stabilize.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$850 depending on how many coils are replaced and rear bank access
DIY Cost: $50-$420 parts only
You Save: $150-$430 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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