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2018 Honda Pilot
2016 - 2022 Honda Pilot
Elite V6 3.5L
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  • How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016-2022 Honda Pilot 3.5L V6 (Trim: EX | Engine: V6 3.5L)
How to Replace Ignition Coil 2016-2022 Honda Pilot (3.5L V6)

How to Replace Ignition Coil 2016-2022 Honda Pilot (3.5L V6)

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10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
12mm
12mm
Socket
or (7/16")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
6"
6"
Extension
3/8
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How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016-2022 Honda Pilot 3.5L V6 (Trim: EX | Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and misfire testing for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022

How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016-2022 Honda Pilot 3.5L V6 (Trim: EX | Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and misfire testing for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022

Orion
Orion

🔧 Pilot - Ignition Coil Replacement

Replacing the ignition coils on your Pilot restores strong spark to the engine cylinders and can fix misfires, rough idle, poor acceleration, or a flashing check engine light. The 3.5L V6 uses one coil per cylinder, mounted directly on top of each spark plug.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work only on a cool engine to avoid burns from the intake manifold and cylinder heads.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging ignition coils to prevent accidental electrical shorts.
  • ⚠️ Keep dirt and debris out of the spark plug wells. Debris can fall into the engine if the spark plugs are removed later.
  • ⚠️ Do not pull on the coil wiring. Always release the connector tab and pull from the plastic connector body.
  • ⚠️ If the check engine light is flashing, avoid driving until the repair is complete. A misfire can damage the catalytic converter.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
  • Torque wrench inch-pound range
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Compressed air nozzle
  • OBD2 scan tool
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Ignition coil - Qty: 1-6
  • Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1, if removing intake manifold for rear bank access
  • Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 tube

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Pilot on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
  • Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable, then move the cable aside so it cannot touch the battery post.
  • If replacing only one failed coil, use an OBD2 scan tool to read the misfire code first. Codes P0301-P0306 identify the cylinder number.
  • An OBD2 scan tool is a small diagnostic tool that plugs into the vehicle’s diagnostic port to read and clear trouble codes.
  • The front cylinder bank is easier to reach. The rear cylinder bank may require moving intake ducting and, depending on access, removing the upper intake manifold.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the Engine Cover

  • Use your hands to lift the plastic engine cover straight upward from its rubber mounts.
  • If the cover feels stuck, use a trim clip removal tool gently near the mounting points.
  • Set the cover aside where it will not get scratched.
  • Pull evenly, not at an angle.

Step 2: Disconnect the Negative Battery Cable

  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to loosen the negative battery terminal nut.
  • Lift the negative cable off the battery post.
  • Wrap the cable end with a clean rag or position it away from the battery so it cannot spring back.

Step 3: Locate the Ignition Coils

  • Look on top of each valve cover for the ignition coils. Each coil has one electrical connector and one 10mm hold-down bolt.
  • An ignition coil is the small electrical part that sends high voltage to the spark plug.
  • There are six coils total on the 3.5L V6, one for each cylinder.

Step 4: Improve Access to the Coil Area

  • Use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the air intake tube clamps if the intake tube blocks your hand access.
  • Use needle-nose pliers to release any small hose clamps attached to the intake tube.
  • Use a 10mm socket to remove any intake duct support fasteners if needed.
  • Move the intake tube aside carefully without forcing wiring or hoses.

Step 5: Clean Around the Coil

  • Put on safety glasses before using compressed air.
  • Use a compressed air nozzle to blow dirt away from the top of the coil and spark plug well area.
  • This helps stop debris from falling into the plug well when the coil is removed.

Step 6: Unplug the Ignition Coil Connector

  • Press the connector release tab with your thumb or a flathead screwdriver.
  • Pull the connector straight off the coil by the plastic body.
  • Do not pull on the wires.
  • If the connector is stuck, use a flathead screwdriver gently under the connector edge while pressing the release tab.
  • Plastic tabs get brittle with age.

Step 7: Remove the Coil Hold-Down Bolt

  • Use a 10mm socket, 3/8-inch drive extension, and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the ignition coil bolt.
  • Place the bolt in a small tray so it does not fall into the engine bay.

Step 8: Remove the Old Ignition Coil

  • Grip the top of the coil firmly by hand.
  • Twist the coil gently left and right to loosen the rubber boot from the spark plug.
  • Pull the coil straight upward out of the spark plug well.
  • If the boot sticks, continue twisting gently. Do not pry hard against the valve cover.

Step 9: Inspect the Old Coil and Spark Plug Well

  • Check the removed coil boot for oil, coolant, cracking, carbon tracking, or burn marks.
  • Carbon tracking looks like a thin black lightning-shaped line on the coil boot.
  • If there is oil inside the spark plug well, the valve cover tube seal may be leaking and should be repaired before installing a new coil.
  • Use a flashlight if needed to inspect the well.

Step 10: Prepare the New Ignition Coil

  • Apply a small pea-sized amount of dielectric grease inside the end of the new coil boot.
  • Dielectric grease is a non-conductive silicone grease that helps seal out moisture and makes future removal easier.
  • Do not pack the boot full of grease.

Step 11: Install the New Ignition Coil

  • Push the new ignition coil straight down into the spark plug well by hand.
  • You should feel the boot seat onto the spark plug.
  • Align the coil mounting ear with the bolt hole.

Step 12: Tighten the Coil Bolt

  • Start the 10mm coil bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 10mm socket and torque wrench inch-pound range to tighten the coil bolt.
  • Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs)
  • Do not overtighten. The valve cover threads can be damaged.

Step 13: Reconnect the Electrical Connector

  • Push the coil electrical connector onto the new coil until it clicks.
  • Lightly tug the connector by the plastic body to confirm it is locked.

Step 14: Repeat for Additional Coils

  • Repeat Steps 5-13 for each ignition coil being replaced.
  • Use the same 10mm socket, extension, ratchet, and torque wrench for each coil bolt.
  • If replacing all six coils, keep the work area organized and replace one coil at a time.
  • One-at-a-time prevents connector mix-ups.

Step 15: Rear Bank Access If Needed

  • If your hand cannot reach the rear bank coils safely, remove the intake air duct using a flathead screwdriver and 10mm socket.
  • If more room is still needed, use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the upper intake manifold mounting bolts.
  • Lift the upper intake manifold only enough to access the rear coils if possible, without stressing hoses or wiring.
  • Replace the upper intake manifold gaskets if the manifold is fully removed.
  • When reinstalling the upper intake manifold, use a 12mm socket and torque wrench.
  • Torque to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs)
  • Tighten the intake manifold bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern.

Step 16: Reinstall Intake Parts

  • Use a flathead screwdriver to tighten the air intake tube clamps securely.
  • Use needle-nose pliers to reinstall any hose clamps removed earlier.
  • Use a 10mm socket to reinstall any intake duct support fasteners.
  • Make sure all hoses and wiring connectors are back in their original positions.

Step 17: Reconnect the Battery

  • Place the negative battery cable back onto the battery post.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to tighten the terminal nut snugly.
  • Do not overtighten the battery terminal.

Step 18: Reinstall the Engine Cover

  • Line up the plastic engine cover with the rubber mounting posts.
  • Press down firmly by hand until the cover snaps into place.

Step 19: Clear Codes and Test Run

  • Plug the OBD2 scan tool into the diagnostic port under the driver side of the dashboard.
  • Use the OBD2 scan tool to clear stored misfire codes.
  • Start the engine and let it idle for several minutes.
  • Listen for smooth idle and check that the check engine light does not return.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Take your Pilot on a short 10-15 minute test drive with light acceleration first.
  • ✅ Recheck for warning lights after the test drive.
  • ✅ Use the OBD2 scan tool to confirm there are no pending misfire codes.
  • ✅ If the same misfire code returns, inspect the spark plug, fuel injector, wiring, and compression for that cylinder.
  • ✅ If the idle is rough immediately after battery disconnect, let the engine idle with all accessories off for a few minutes so the idle can stabilize.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$850 depending on how many coils are replaced and rear bank access

DIY Cost: $50-$420 parts only

You Save: $150-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.


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