How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2015 Ford Fusion (Fix Misfire & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque spec (62 in-lb / 7 Nm) for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2015 Ford Fusion (Fix Misfire & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque spec (62 in-lb / 7 Nm) for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
🔧 Fusion - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Fusion uses coil-on-plug ignition coils—one coil sits directly on top of each spark plug. Replacing a bad coil can fix misfires, rough running, poor acceleration, and a flashing check engine light.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before you start; coils sit near hot parts.
- ⚠️ Hybrid safety: do not touch any orange high-voltage cables or connectors.
- ⚠️ Keep the key fob away from the car (at least 15+ feet) so the hybrid system can’t “wake up.”
- ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V negative battery cable before unplugging coils.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 8mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3" 1/4" drive extension
- Inch-pound torque wrench (20-200 in-lb)
- Trim removal tool
- Small flathead screwdriver
- OBD-II scan tool
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1-4 Replace the failed one, or all four.
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
- Ignition coil boot (if sold separately) - Qty: 1-4
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Power the car OFF and wait 5 minutes.
- Disconnect the 12V negative battery cable: use a 10mm socket to loosen the clamp and tuck the cable aside so it can’t spring back.
- A torque wrench measures tightening force accurately.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Grip the cover and pull upward to release it from the rubber grommets.
- If it feels stuck, use a trim removal tool to gently pry at a corner.
Step 2: Locate the ignition coils
- The coils sit on top of the valve cover, one per cylinder, in a row.
- Work on one coil at a time to avoid mixing up connectors.
Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector
- Press the connector lock tab by hand; if it’s tight, use a small flathead screwdriver to gently lift the lock.
- Pull the connector straight off—don’t pull on the wires.
Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Use an 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 3" extension to remove the bolt.
- Set the bolt aside where it won’t fall into the engine bay.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Twist the coil gently left and right to break the seal.
- Pull straight up to remove it from the spark plug tube.
- If the rubber boot stayed stuck down in the tube, use the trim removal tool carefully to lift it out.
Step 6: Prep the new coil
- Apply a small smear of dielectric grease inside the tip of the rubber boot.
- Dielectric grease helps prevent moisture and sticking.
Step 7: Install the new coil
- Push the coil straight down until you feel it seat onto the spark plug.
- Reinstall the hold-down bolt by hand first (to avoid cross-threading).
- Tighten the bolt using an inch-pound torque wrench: Torque to 62 in-lb (7 Nm).
Step 8: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks/locks.
- Give it a gentle tug to confirm it’s fully seated.
Step 9: Repeat for any other coils (if replacing more than one)
- Repeat Steps 3–8 for each remaining coil you are replacing.
- Replacing one at a time prevents mix-ups.
Step 10: Reinstall the engine cover and reconnect the 12V battery
- Reinstall the engine cover by aligning the grommets and pressing down firmly by hand.
- Reconnect the 12V negative cable using a 10mm socket and snug the clamp.
✅ After Repair
- Start your Fusion and let it idle for 1-2 minutes; it should run smoothly.
- If the check engine light was on, use an OBD-II scan tool to clear codes, then recheck for returning misfire codes.
- Test drive 10-15 minutes with light and moderate acceleration.
- If it still misfires, the next common causes are spark plugs, a vacuum leak, or a fuel/engine control issue.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$320 (parts only)
You Save: $190-$330 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















