How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2015 Ford Escape (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil swap with required tools/parts, safety tips, and 7 Nm (62 in-lbs) torque spec for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2015 Ford Escape (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil swap with required tools/parts, safety tips, and 7 Nm (62 in-lbs) torque spec for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Escape - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Escape uses one ignition coil per cylinder to create the spark that fires the engine. Replacing a weak/bad coil is straightforward: remove the engine cover, unplug the coil, unbolt it, and swap it with a new one.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully; coils sit on a hot valve cover.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the spark plug wells; it can cause misfires.
- ⚠️ Disconnecting the battery is recommended to avoid accidental shorts.
- ⚠️ Pull on connectors by the plastic tab, not the wires.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 1/4" drive extension (3"-6")
- 8mm socket
- Small flathead screwdriver
- Torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range Nm) (specialty)
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1-4 (replace only the failed coil, or all four)
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
- Spark plugs - Qty: 4 (recommended if due/unknown)
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Tip: Replace coils one-by-one to avoid mix-ups.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover
- Lift the engine cover straight up by hand to release the rubber grommets.
- Set it aside where it won’t get stepped on.
Step 2: Locate the ignition coils
- The four coils sit on top of the engine, each directly above a spark plug.
- If you’re only replacing one coil, identify the cylinder you’re working on first.
Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector
- Press the connector lock tab and pull the connector straight off the coil.
- If it’s stuck, gently help the tab with a small flathead screwdriver (don’t pry hard).
Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Use an 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 1/4" drive extension (3"-6") to remove the coil bolt.
- Set the bolt aside so it can’t fall into the engine bay.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Twist the coil slightly, then pull straight up to remove it from the spark plug well.
- If it feels stuck, keep twisting gently while pulling upward—don’t use excessive force.
Step 6: Prep and install the new coil
- Apply a very small dab of dielectric grease inside the new coil boot. Dielectric grease is a silicone grease that helps keep out moisture and makes future removal easier.
- Push the new coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.
Step 7: Reinstall the coil bolt and torque it
- Start the bolt by hand a few turns to prevent cross-threading.
- Tighten using an 8mm socket.
- Final tighten with a torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range Nm): Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs).
Step 8: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks/locks.
- Gently tug it to confirm it’s secure.
Step 9: Repeat for other coils (if replacing more than one)
- Repeat Steps 3-8 for each remaining coil you’re replacing.
Step 10: Reinstall the engine cover and reconnect the battery
- Press the engine cover back down until it snaps onto its grommets.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should run smooth with no shaking.
- Test drive for 10-15 minutes and recheck for any warning lights.
- If the Check Engine light was on, a scan tool may be needed to clear codes after the fix (some will clear on their own after a few drive cycles).
- Tip: If misfire returns, check spark plugs next.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $200-$600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $40-$320 (parts only)
You Save: $160-$280 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















