How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2015-2020 Honda Fit (Engine: Inline 4 1.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and misfire checks for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2015-2020 Honda Fit (Engine: Inline 4 1.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and misfire checks for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Fit - Ignition Coil Replacement
Replacing the ignition coils on your Fit is a beginner-friendly job. The coils sit on top of the engine and send high voltage to the spark plugs, so a weak coil can cause misfires, rough idle, poor fuel economy, or a flashing check engine light.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 30-60 minutes
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before working near the ignition coils.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental electrical shorts.
- ⚠️ Do not pull on coil wiring. Always press the connector tab and pull the connector body.
- ⚠️ Replace coils one at a time so the connectors and coil positions do not get mixed up.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 3/8-inch ratchet
- 3-inch extension
- 10mm wrench
- Torque wrench inch-pound range
- Plastic trim tool
- Compressed air nozzle
- OBD2 scan tool
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1-4
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 small tube
Tip: If one coil failed from age or mileage, replacing all four can prevent repeat misfires.
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your Fit on level ground and set the parking brake.
- ❄️ Make sure the engine is cool to the touch.
- 🔋 Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the negative battery cable, then move it aside so it cannot touch the battery post.
- 🧰 Keep the new coils in their boxes until you install them to avoid dirt entering the rubber boots.
- 📟 If the check engine light is on, use an OBD2 scan tool to note any misfire codes before clearing them. A scan tool plugs into the diagnostic port and reads fault codes.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Open The Hood And Locate The Coils
- Use the hood release inside the cabin, then lift the hood and support it with the prop rod.
- Look at the top of the engine. The four ignition coils are lined up across the top of the valve cover.
- Each coil has an electrical connector and one 10mm retaining bolt.
Step 2: Remove Any Plastic Cover Or Harness Clip If Blocking Access
- If a small plastic cover or wiring clip blocks a coil, use a plastic trim tool to gently release it.
- A plastic trim tool is a non-metal pry tool that helps release clips without scratching or breaking them.
- Do not force brittle plastic clips. Press the locking tab first, then lift gently.
Step 3: Clean Around The Ignition Coils
- Put on safety glasses.
- Use a compressed air nozzle to blow dust and grit away from the top of each ignition coil.
- This helps keep dirt from falling into the spark plug tubes when the coils are removed.
- Clean first. Dirt causes problems later.
Step 4: Disconnect The First Coil Connector
- Use your fingers to press the locking tab on the electrical connector.
- Pull the connector straight back by the plastic connector body.
- If it is stuck, use a plastic trim tool to gently help release the tab.
- Do not pull on the wires.
Step 5: Remove The Coil Retaining Bolt
- Use a 10mm socket, 3-inch extension, and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the ignition coil retaining bolt.
- Set the bolt in a safe place so it does not fall into the engine bay.
Step 6: Remove The Ignition Coil
- Grip the top of the ignition coil by hand.
- Twist it gently left and right to loosen the rubber boot.
- Pull the coil straight upward out of the spark plug tube.
- The rubber boot is the long lower section of the coil that seals around the spark plug.
- Check for oil, water, cracking, burning, or white tracking marks on the old coil boot.
Step 7: Prepare The New Ignition Coil
- Compare the new ignition coil to the old one. The connector shape, bolt tab, and boot length should match.
- Apply a very small amount of dielectric grease inside the end of the rubber boot.
- Dielectric grease is an electrical-safe silicone grease that helps seal out moisture.
- Do not pack the boot full of grease. A thin film is enough.
Step 8: Install The New Ignition Coil
- Push the new coil straight down into the spark plug tube by hand.
- You should feel it seat onto the spark plug.
- Line up the bolt hole with the valve cover mounting point.
- Install the retaining bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
Step 9: Tighten The Coil Bolt
- Use a torque wrench inch-pound range with a 10mm socket to tighten the coil retaining bolt.
- Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs)
- If your torque wrench reads inch-pounds, tighten to 106 in-lbs.
- Do not overtighten. The mounting area can crack.
Step 10: Reconnect The Electrical Connector
- Push the electrical connector onto the ignition coil until it clicks.
- Lightly tug the connector body to confirm it is locked.
Step 11: Repeat For The Remaining Coils
- Use the same steps for each remaining ignition coil.
- Use a 10mm socket, 3-inch extension, and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove each bolt.
- Use the torque wrench inch-pound range and 10mm socket to tighten each bolt to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs).
- Work one coil at a time to keep things simple.
Step 12: Reinstall Any Clips Or Covers
- Use your hands to reinstall any plastic cover or wiring clip removed earlier.
- If needed, use the plastic trim tool to guide clips into place gently.
- Make sure no wiring harness is pinched or resting tightly against hot engine parts.
Step 13: Reconnect The Battery
- Place the negative battery cable back onto the battery post.
- Use a 10mm wrench to tighten the negative terminal nut.
- Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)
- Make sure the terminal does not twist by hand after tightening.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start your Fit and let it idle for 1-2 minutes.
- ✅ The idle should feel smooth with no shaking or flashing check engine light.
- ✅ Use an OBD2 scan tool to clear stored misfire codes if the repair fixed the issue.
- ✅ Take a short test drive with gentle acceleration first, then normal acceleration.
- ✅ If the check engine light returns, scan the codes again before replacing more parts.
- ✅ If oil was found inside a spark plug tube, the valve cover tube seals may also need repair.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$320 (parts only)
You Save: $150-$330 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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