🔧 Rogue - Ignition Coil Replacement

You’ll be removing the plastic engine cover, unplugging each ignition coil, and swapping in new ones on top of the engine. This restores strong spark and can fix misfires, rough idle, and stalling.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before working to avoid burns.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental short circuits.
• ⚠️ Keep tools and hardware away from the battery positive terminal.
• ⚠️ Do not pull on the ignition coil wires; use the connectors only.
• ⚠️ Work in a well-ventilated area and keep flammable items away from the engine bay.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🛠️ 10mm socket
• 🛠️ 8mm socket
• 🛠️ 1/4" drive ratchet
• 🛠️ 1/4" drive extension (3"-6")
• 🛠️ Torque wrench (inch-pound, 40-150 in-lbs range)
• 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver (small)
• 🛠️ Needle-nose pliers
• 🛠️ Fender cover or clean towel
• 🛠️ OBD2 scan tool (basic)
• 🛠️ Mechanic gloves
• 🛠️ Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🔩 Ignition coil (QR25DE, individual) - Qty: 4 Replace all four together
• 🔩 Dielectric grease (spark plug boot grease) - Qty: 1 tube
• 🔩 Throttle body/intake cleaner spray - Qty: 1 (optional, for light cleaning)
• 🔩 Shop towels or paper towels - Qty: 1 pack

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Rogue on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and secure it with the hood prop rod.
• Disconnect the battery negative terminal using an 8mm socket, and move the cable aside.
• Let the engine cool for at least 30 minutes if it was recently running.
• Have your new coils laid out and ready so you can swap one coil at a time.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover

• Locate the black plastic engine cover on top of the engine.
• Use a 10mm socket and 1/4" ratchet to remove the bolts or nuts holding the cover (usually two).
• Lift the engine cover straight up and set it aside on a towel.
• Keep bolts in a small tray so they don't get lost.

Step 2: Identify the ignition coils

• You will see four black ignition coils on top of the engine, each sitting over a spark plug.
• Each coil has a small electrical connector and is held down by one bolt with a 10mm head.
• Plan to work from one side to the other (for example, left to right) so you don’t mix things up.

Step 3: Disconnect the electrical connector from the first coil

• Pick the first coil on one end of the engine.
• Locate the plastic tab on the connector; press it down with your thumb or a small flathead screwdriver gently.
• While holding the tab down, pull the connector straight back to unplug it. Do not pull on the wires.
• If it’s stuck, gently wiggle while pulling; use needle-nose pliers on the connector body only if needed.

Step 4: Remove the first ignition coil

• Use a 10mm socket and 1/4" ratchet to remove the single coil hold-down bolt.
• Lift the ignition coil straight up by hand. It may feel snug because of the rubber boot seal—wiggle slightly while pulling.
• Inspect the rubber boot for oil or heavy corrosion. Note anything odd for later.

Step 5: Prepare and install the new coil

• Put a tiny dab of dielectric grease inside the tip of the new coil boot.
• Align the new coil over the spark plug hole and push it straight down until it seats fully.
• Install the original 10mm bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 10mm socket and ratchet to snug the bolt, then use a torque wrench set to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs) to tighten.
• Do not overtighten; the threads are in soft aluminum.

Step 6: Reconnect the coil connector

• Push the electrical connector back onto the new coil until you hear or feel a “click.”
• Lightly tug on the connector to confirm it’s locked in place.

Step 7: Repeat for the remaining three coils

• Work one coil at a time to avoid mixing connectors and bolts.
• For each remaining coil:
  • Unplug the connector using the small flathead screwdriver if needed.
  • Remove the 10mm bolt with the 10mm socket and ratchet.
  • Pull out the old coil.
  • Add a dab of dielectric grease to the new coil boot.
  • Install the new coil and tighten the bolt to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs) with the torque wrench.
  • Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.
• Visually check that all connectors are fully seated and pointing same direction.

Step 8: Quick check around the work area

• Look along the top of the engine and make sure:
  • All four coils are bolted down.
  • All four connectors are clicked in.
  • No tools or rags are left in the engine bay.
• Wipe any spilled grease or dirt with shop towels.

Step 9: Reinstall the engine cover

• Set the engine cover back over the top of the engine, lining it up with the mounting points.
• Install the cover fasteners by hand first.
• Use the 10mm socket and ratchet to snug the bolts. These just need to be hand-tight; do not over-tighten.

Step 10: Reconnect the battery

• Place the negative battery cable back on the negative terminal.
• Use an 8mm socket to tighten the clamp until it is snug and will not rotate.
• Do not overtighten; just firm enough that it doesn’t move.

Step 11: Start the engine and check operation

• Start your Rogue and let it idle.
• The idle should be smooth, with no shaking or misfire feeling.
• If the check engine light was on before, it may turn off on its own after a few drive cycles, or you can clear it with an OBD2 scan tool (a simple code reader that plugs into the car).
• Listen for any unusual noises around the engine. If you hear rough running, turn off the engine and recheck coil connectors.

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✅ After Repair

• Let the engine idle for a few minutes and confirm there are no warning lights flashing.
• Use an OBD2 scan tool to read and clear any stored misfire codes (for example, P0301-P0304 or P0350 series).
• Take a short test drive: check for smooth acceleration and no hesitation.
• After the drive, re-open the hood and quickly recheck that all coils and connectors are still secure.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$280 (parts only, all four coils)

You Save: $230-$320 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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