How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2014 Ford Escape (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs (62 in-lb / 7 Nm) for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2014 Ford Escape (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs (62 in-lb / 7 Nm) for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
đź”§ Escape - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Escape uses coil-on-plug ignition coils (one coil per cylinder) mounted on top of the engine. Replacing a bad coil restores smooth idle, power, and prevents misfires that can damage the catalytic converter.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before working near the turbo/engine.
- ⚠️ Keep ignition OFF and the key/fob away from the vehicle while unplugging coils.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental shorts.
- ⚠️ Pull coils straight up—don’t yank on the wiring harness.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 🔸 10mm socket
- 🔸 1/4" drive ratchet
- 🔸 6" extension (1/4" drive)
- 🔸 8mm socket
- 🔸 Small flat-blade screwdriver
- 🔸 Torque wrench (inch-pound, 20-200 in-lb range)
- 🔸 Nitrile gloves
- 🔸 Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 4 if replacing all)
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 (small packet)
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- 🔸 Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- 🔸 Open the hood and let the engine cool.
- 🔸 Plan to replace coils one at a time so connectors don’t get mixed up.
- 🔸 A “dielectric grease” is a non-conductive grease that helps seal the rubber boot against moisture.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover
- Use your hands to pull the engine cover straight upward to release it from the rubber grommets.
- Set the cover aside where it won’t get stepped on.
Step 2: Disconnect the negative battery cable
- Use a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet to loosen the negative (–) battery terminal clamp.
- Lift the cable off the post and tuck it aside so it can’t spring back.
Step 3: Unplug the ignition coil electrical connector
- At the coil you’re replacing, use a small flat-blade screwdriver to gently lift the connector lock tab (if equipped), then press the release and pull the connector off.
- Pull the connector housing, not the wires.
Step 4: Remove the ignition coil hold-down bolt
- Use an 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and a 6" extension to remove the coil bolt.
- Put the bolt somewhere safe—you’ll reuse it.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Grip the coil body and pull it straight up to remove it from the spark plug well.
- If it’s stuck, twist the coil slightly while pulling upward (do not pry on the valve cover).
Step 6: Install the new ignition coil
- Apply a very thin smear of dielectric grease inside the new coil boot using a clean fingertip (optional but recommended).
- Push the new coil straight down until you feel it fully seat on the spark plug.
- Reinstall the coil bolt using an 8mm socket, then Torque to 62 in-lb (7 Nm) using a torque wrench (inch-pound).
Step 7: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks/locks into place.
- Gently tug to confirm it’s fully latched.
Step 8: Repeat for any other coils you’re replacing
- Move to the next cylinder and repeat Steps 3–7.
- One coil at a time prevents mix-ups.
Step 9: Reassemble and reconnect battery
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Reinstall the engine cover by lining it up and pressing straight down.
âś… After Repair
- ✅ Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes; it should run smooth with no shaking.
- âś… If the check engine light was on, it may take a few drive cycles to clear; if it stays on, the next step is scanning for misfire codes.
- âś… Take a short test drive and recheck for any hesitation under light acceleration.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$400 (parts only, depending on replacing 1 vs all 4)
You Save: $150-$300+ by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















