How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2014 Chevrolet Malibu (Fix Misfire & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs (89 in-lb) for 2013, 2014, 2015
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2014 Chevrolet Malibu (Fix Misfire & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs (89 in-lb) for 2013, 2014, 2015
đź”§ Malibu - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Malibu uses coil-on-plug ignition coils (one coil per cylinder). Replacing a weak coil can fix misfires, rough idle, blinking check-engine light, and poor acceleration.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cool engine to avoid burns.
- ⚠️ Turn ignition OFF and keep the key/fob away from the car while unplugging coils.
- ⚠️ If you’re unsure around electrical connectors, disconnect the negative battery cable first.
- ⚠️ Don’t pull on wiring—only pull on the connector body.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 3" extension
- Torque wrench (in-lb)
- Flat trim tool
- Small pick tool
- Shop towels
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 4 replace as a set)
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool fully.
- If disconnecting the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative cable and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
- Tip: Take a quick photo of connectors first.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Grip the cover with both hands and pull upward firmly to pop it off the rubber grommets.
- If your cover has fasteners instead: remove them with a 10mm socket, then lift the cover off.
Step 2: Locate the ignition coils
- The ignition coils are on top of the engine, one per cylinder, with an electrical connector on each.
- Use a shop towel to wipe away dirt around the coils so nothing falls into the spark plug tubes.
Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector
- Use a flat trim tool or small pick tool to release the connector lock (the small locking tab that prevents accidental unplugging).
- Press the release and pull the connector straight off the coil.
Step 4: Remove the ignition coil retaining bolt
- Use a 10mm socket with a 3" extension and 3/8" ratchet to remove the coil bolt.
- Set the bolt aside where it won’t get lost.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Twist the coil gently left/right to break the seal, then pull it straight up and out.
- If it’s stuck, keep twisting—don’t pry hard against the valve cover.
Step 6: Prep and install the new coil
- Apply a very thin smear of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot of the new coil. (Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier.)
- Push the coil straight down onto the spark plug until you feel it seat fully.
Step 7: Reinstall the coil bolt and torque it
- Start the bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten with a 10mm socket.
- Final tighten using a torque wrench (in-lb): Torque to 89 in-lb (10 Nm)
Step 8: Reconnect the coil connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks.
- Re-engage the connector lock you released earlier.
Step 9: Repeat for remaining coils (if replacing more than one)
- Do one coil at a time so connectors don’t get mixed up.
Step 10: Reinstall the engine cover
- Align the cover with the mounting points and press down firmly to snap it into place.
- If your cover uses fasteners, tighten them with a 10mm socket (snug only).
âś… After Repair
- If you disconnected the battery, reconnect it using a 10mm socket (snug).
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should run smooth with no shaking.
- Test drive for 10 minutes and confirm no flashing check-engine light.
- If the check-engine light stays on, it may need to be cleared with a scan tool (or it may clear after a few drive cycles if the issue is fixed).
- Tip: A blinking check-engine light means misfire now.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$500 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $40-$260 (parts only)
You Save: $140-$240 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















