How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2013 Jeep Wrangler (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and 80 in-lb torque spec for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2013 Jeep Wrangler (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and 80 in-lb torque spec for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Wrangler - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Wrangler uses coil-on-plug ignition coils (one coil per cylinder). Replacing a bad coil can fix a misfire, rough idle, and a flashing check-engine light, and it’s a straightforward job with basic hand tools.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; coils sit on hot cylinder heads.
- ⚠️ Keep the key out of the ignition while unplugging coils.
- ⚠️ If you disconnect the battery, you may lose radio presets.
- ⚠️ Do not pull on wiring; unplug by the connector body.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" ratchet
- 3" extension
- 6" extension
- Universal joint wobble adapter
- Small flat-blade screwdriver
- Torque wrench (in-lb)
- Trim clip tool
- Shop light
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 6 to replace all)
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, transmission in neutral, and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine fully cool.
- If you prefer maximum safety, disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Pull up firmly on the engine cover to release the rubber grommets, or remove any fasteners using a trim clip tool if yours has them.
- Set the cover aside where it won’t get stepped on.
Step 2: Locate the coil you’re replacing
- Use a shop light to find the coil: it’s the small unit bolted to the valve cover with an electrical connector on top.
- Do one coil at a time to avoid mix-ups.
Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector
- Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to gently lift the connector lock (if present), then press the tab and pull the connector straight off.
- If it’s stubborn, wiggle the connector—do not yank the wires.
Step 4: Remove the coil retaining bolt
- Remove the single coil bolt using a 10mm socket, 1/4" ratchet, and a 3" or 6" extension.
- For tight rear coils near the firewall, use the universal joint wobble adapter to get the socket aligned. (A wobble adapter is a joint that lets the socket bend slightly.)
Step 5: Remove the coil
- Twist the coil gently left-right to break the boot seal, then pull straight upward to remove it.
- Look down the spark plug tube for oil or water. If you see oil, stop and tell me—there may be a valve cover leak.
Step 6: Prep and install the new coil
- Apply a small smear of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot. (Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier.)
- Push the new coil straight down until it seats fully on the spark plug.
Step 7: Reinstall the coil bolt and tighten to spec
- Start the bolt by hand to prevent cross-threading.
- Tighten with a torque wrench (in-lb): Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
Step 8: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks/locks.
- Give it a gentle tug to confirm it’s fully seated.
Step 9: Repeat for other coils (if replacing more than one)
- Repeat Steps 2–8 for each remaining coil.
- Rear coils need patience and good lighting.
Step 10: Reinstall engine cover and battery connection
- Reinstall the engine cover by pressing it onto the grommets.
- If disconnected, reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes. It should run smooth.
- If the check-engine light was flashing before, it should stop flashing immediately if the misfire is fixed.
- Take a short test drive and recheck for any rough running.
- If the check-engine light stays on, the code may need clearing after the repair.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$500 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$330 (parts only)
You Save: $145-$170 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















