How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2012 Honda Civic (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 10 Nm torque spec for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2012 Honda Civic (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 10 Nm torque spec for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
🔧 Civic - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Civic uses one ignition coil per cylinder (coil-on-plug). Replacing a bad coil restores smooth running and fixes misfires, rough idle, and flashing check-engine light issues.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before working near the exhaust and cylinder head.
- ⚠️ Keep tools and hands away from the radiator fan area (it can turn on unexpectedly).
- ⚠️ If the check-engine light is flashing, avoid driving much (active misfire can damage the catalytic converter).
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required, but disconnecting the negative terminal helps prevent accidental shorts.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 6" extension (1/4" drive)
- Torque wrench (inch-pound or small Nm range)
- Trim clip remover
- Flathead screwdriver
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 4 if replacing all)
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, engine off, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and remove any loose items near the engine bay.
- If you choose to disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and keep it from touching the post.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Use a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the engine cover fasteners.
- Lift the cover straight up and set it aside.
Step 2: Locate the ignition coils
- The coils sit on top of the engine valve cover, one per cylinder, in a row.
- Work one coil at a time to avoid mix-ups.
Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector
- Press the connector lock tab and pull the connector off the coil by hand.
- If the tab is stubborn, use a flathead screwdriver gently to help lift the lock tab (do not pry hard).
Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Use a 10mm socket, 6" extension (1/4" drive), and 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the bolt holding the coil down.
- Set the bolt aside where it can’t fall into the engine bay.
Step 5: Pull the coil out
- Twist the coil gently left-right by hand, then pull straight up to remove it.
- If it’s stuck, use a trim clip remover to gently assist from the base area (light pressure only).
Step 6: Prep and install the new coil
- Apply a very thin smear of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot (dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier).
- Push the new coil straight down onto the spark plug until it seats fully.
Step 7: Reinstall the hold-down bolt and torque it
- Start the bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 10mm socket and torque wrench (inch-pound or small Nm range) to tighten the bolt.
- Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs)
Step 8: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks into place.
- Give it a light tug to confirm it’s locked.
Step 9: Repeat for any other coils you’re replacing
- Use the same process for cylinders 2-4 if replacing more than one coil.
Step 10: Reinstall the engine cover
- Set the cover back in place.
- Use the 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet to snug the fasteners (do not over-tighten).
✅ After Repair
- If you disconnected the battery, reconnect the negative terminal using the 10mm socket.
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should run smooth with no shaking.
- Take a short test drive and verify no flashing check-engine light.
- If the check-engine light stays on, scan for codes with an OBD2 scan tool (specialty) (an OBD2 scan tool reads trouble codes from the car’s computer).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$260 (parts only)
You Save: $135-$190 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















