How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2007 Ford Explorer (Fix Misfire & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 62 in-lb (7 Nm) torque spec for 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2007 Ford Explorer (Fix Misfire & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 62 in-lb (7 Nm) torque spec for 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010
🔧 Explorer - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Explorer uses coil-on-plug ignition coils (one coil per cylinder) to create the spark that runs the engine. Replacing a bad coil can fix misfires, rough idle, flashing check-engine light, and loss of power.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; coils sit near hot parts.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental shorts.
- ⚠️ Don’t pull on wiring; use the connector tab to unplug.
- ⚠️ If the check-engine light is flashing, avoid driving until repaired (can damage the catalytic converter).
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- 10mm wrench
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 1/4" drive extension set
- 7mm socket
- 8mm socket
- Small flathead screwdriver
- Torque wrench (inch-pound)
- Flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil(s) - Qty: 1-6
- Ignition coil boot(s) (if separate) - Qty: 1-6
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and let the engine cool fully.
- Open the hood and keep a flashlight handy (rear coils can be tight to see).
- Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the negative battery cable and move it aside.
- Tip: Replace one coil at a time. This prevents mixing up connectors.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Use an 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the engine cover bolts (if your cover uses them).
- Lift the cover off and set it aside.
Step 2: Choose the coil you’re replacing
- Each coil sits directly on top of a spark plug.
- Use a flashlight to clearly see the coil, its electrical connector, and the small hold-down bolt.
Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector
- If there’s a connector lock, gently release it with a small flathead screwdriver.
- Press the connector tab and pull the connector straight back by hand.
Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Use a 7mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and a 1/4" drive extension to remove the coil bolt.
- Put the bolt somewhere safe so it doesn’t fall into the engine bay.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Twist the coil slightly left-right by hand to break the seal.
- Pull the coil straight up and out.
- Tip: Don’t pry on plastic parts.
Step 6: Prep the new coil (and boot)
- If your new coil uses a separate boot, install the ignition coil boot onto the coil.
- Apply a small smear of dielectric grease inside the end of the boot (this helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier).
- Wipe any oil or debris off the spark plug well before installing the new coil.
Step 7: Install the new coil
- Push the coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.
- Reinstall the hold-down bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a torque wrench (inch-pound) to tighten the bolt: Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs).
Step 8: Reconnect the coil connector
- Push the connector in until it clicks/locks.
- Gently tug it to confirm it’s fully seated.
Step 9: Reinstall the engine cover
- Set the cover back in place.
- Use an 8mm socket to reinstall and snug the cover bolts (do not over-tighten).
Step 10: Reconnect the battery
- Use a 10mm wrench to reconnect the negative battery cable.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes; it should run smooth with no shaking.
- Take a short test drive and confirm no hesitation under acceleration.
- If the check-engine light stays on, the code may need to be cleared (a parts-store scan tool can do this).
- If you see oil in the spark plug well, the valve cover gasket may be leaking (common cause of repeat coil failures).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$900 (parts + labor, depends on how many coils)
DIY Cost: $40-$420 (parts only, depends on how many coils)
You Save: $210-$480+ by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















