🔧 Pilot - Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

This repair replaces a noisy or loose front wheel bearing on your Pilot. The front wheel bearing is pressed into the steering knuckle, so the hub/knuckle must be removed and the old bearing pressed out with a hydraulic press or wheel bearing press kit.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours per side

Assumption: This guide covers the front wheel bearing. Rear bearing replacement is a different hub assembly procedure.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Pilot only with jack stands on solid, level ground. Never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ The axle nut is very tight. Loosen it before lifting the vehicle.
• ⚠️ Do not let the brake caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.
• ⚠️ Your Pilot has ABS wheel speed sensors. Handle the sensor and wiring gently to avoid ABS warning lights.
• ⚠️ A hydraulic press can cause serious injury if parts are not supported squarely.
• ⚠️ Disconnecting the battery is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 19mm lug nut socket
• 36mm axle nut socket
• 1/2-inch breaker bar
• 1/2-inch torque wrench rated to 250 ft-lbs
• 3/8-inch torque wrench rated to 100 ft-lbs
• Ratchet set 3/8-inch and 1/2-inch drive
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Hub puller kit (specialty)
• Hydraulic press 12-ton minimum (specialty)
• Wheel bearing press adapters (specialty)
• Snap ring pliers (specialty)
• Hammer 2-lb
• Brass punch
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Needle nose pliers
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Bungee cord
• Paint marker
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

A hydraulic press uses force to push the bearing in and out straight.

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front wheel bearing - Qty: 1 per side
• Front axle nut - Qty: 1 per side
• Front hub snap ring - Qty: 1 per side
• Lower ball joint cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side
• Outer tie rod cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side

Replace in pairs if both sides are noisy or have similar mileage.

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Pilot on flat ground and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔎 If possible, test the bearing first. A bad front wheel bearing often growls louder as speed increases and may change tone when steering left or right.
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark strut and knuckle positions before removal. This helps keep alignment close until you get it checked.
• 📐 Plan for a wheel alignment afterward if the strut-to-knuckle bolts are removed.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Wheel and Axle Nut

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar to loosen the front lug nuts one turn while the tire is still on the ground.
• Use a flathead screwdriver or brass punch to unstake the axle nut if the nut is crimped into the axle groove.
• Use a 36mm axle nut socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the axle nut.
• Loosen only. Do not remove it yet.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Pilot at the front jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the proper front support points.
• Use the floor jack to lower the vehicle gently onto the stands.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket to remove the lug nuts and wheel.

Step 3: Remove the Brake Caliper and Rotor

• Use a 14mm socket to remove the brake caliper slide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the rotor and hang it from the suspension with a bungee cord.
• Use a 17mm socket to remove the caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it aside.
• Use a flathead screwdriver if needed to remove the rotor retaining screws or clips if present.
• Pull the brake rotor off the hub.
• During reassembly, tighten the caliper bracket bolts to Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
• During reassembly, tighten the caliper slide pin bolts to Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 4: Remove the ABS Wheel Speed Sensor

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the ABS sensor retaining bolt from the steering knuckle.
• Gently twist and pull the sensor out by hand.
• If stuck, use a flathead screwdriver carefully around the edge. Do not pry on the wire.
• Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to remove any wire bracket bolts attached to the knuckle.
• Move the sensor safely away from the press area.

Step 5: Remove the Axle Nut

• Use a 36mm axle nut socket and breaker bar to remove the axle nut fully.
• Push the axle inward slightly by hand.
• If it is stuck, thread the old axle nut on flush with the axle end and tap it with a hammer 2-lb and brass punch.
• Do not mushroom or damage the axle threads.

Step 6: Disconnect the Outer Tie Rod End

• Use needle nose pliers to remove the tie rod cotter pin.
• Use a 17mm socket or 17mm wrench to remove the tie rod castle nut.
• Use a tie rod end puller to separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle.
• During reassembly, tighten the tie rod castle nut to Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs), then install a new cotter pin.

Step 7: Disconnect the Lower Ball Joint

• Use needle nose pliers to remove the lower ball joint cotter pin.
• Use a 19mm socket or 19mm wrench to remove the lower ball joint castle nut.
• Use a ball joint separator to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle.
• A ball joint separator pushes the tapered joint apart without hammering on the steering knuckle.
• During reassembly, tighten the lower ball joint castle nut to Torque to 69 Nm (51 ft-lbs), then install a new cotter pin.

Step 8: Remove the Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the strut against the steering knuckle.
• Use a 22mm socket and 22mm wrench to remove the two strut-to-knuckle nuts and bolts.
• Support the knuckle by hand as the last bolt comes out.
• Slide the axle out of the hub while removing the knuckle from the vehicle.
• During reassembly, tighten the strut-to-knuckle bolts to Torque to 157 Nm (116 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Press the Hub Out of the Bearing

• Place the steering knuckle in a hydraulic press 12-ton minimum with proper wheel bearing press adapters.
• Support the knuckle squarely so the hub can press out safely.
• Use the hydraulic press to press the wheel hub out of the old bearing.
• If the inner bearing race stays on the hub, remove it with a bearing separator from the hub puller kit.
• Press only on solid metal surfaces.

Step 10: Remove the Snap Ring and Old Bearing

• Use snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring from the knuckle.
• A snap ring is a spring steel retaining clip that holds the bearing in place.
• Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to clean the snap ring groove.
• Use the hydraulic press and wheel bearing press adapters to press the old bearing out of the knuckle.

Step 11: Press In the New Bearing

• Clean the bore in the knuckle using brake cleaner spray and shop towels.
• Position the new front wheel bearing squarely in the knuckle.
• Use the hydraulic press and wheel bearing press adapters to press the new bearing into the knuckle.
• Press only on the outer race of the bearing when installing it into the knuckle.
• Use snap ring pliers to install the new snap ring fully into the groove.
• The snap ring must seat completely.

Step 12: Press the Hub Into the New Bearing

• Support the inner race of the new bearing with the correct wheel bearing press adapter.
• Use the hydraulic press to press the hub into the bearing.
• Do not press against the knuckle only. That can damage the new bearing.
• Spin the hub by hand. It should rotate smoothly with no grinding.

Step 13: Reinstall the Knuckle

• Guide the axle through the hub by hand while positioning the knuckle.
• Install the strut-to-knuckle bolts by hand first.
• Use a 22mm socket, 22mm wrench, and torque wrench to tighten the strut-to-knuckle bolts to Torque to 157 Nm (116 ft-lbs).
• Use a 19mm socket or 19mm wrench to install the lower ball joint nut and tighten to Torque to 69 Nm (51 ft-lbs).
• Install a new lower ball joint cotter pin using needle nose pliers.
• Use a 17mm socket or 17mm wrench to install the tie rod nut and tighten to Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs).
• Install a new tie rod cotter pin using needle nose pliers.

Step 14: Reinstall the ABS Sensor, Rotor, and Caliper

• Install the ABS sensor by hand into the knuckle.
• Use a 10mm socket to tighten the ABS sensor bolt snugly to Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
• Install the brake rotor onto the hub by hand.
• Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench to install the caliper bracket bolts to Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
• Place the caliper over the bracket.
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the caliper slide pin bolts to Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Install the New Axle Nut and Wheel

• Thread the new axle nut on by hand.
• Install the wheel and lug nuts by hand.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Use the floor jack to raise the vehicle slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower the tire to the ground.
• Use a 36mm axle nut socket and high-range torque wrench to tighten the axle nut to Torque to 329 Nm (242 ft-lbs).
• Use a brass punch and hammer 2-lb to stake the axle nut if the replacement nut is staked-style.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Pump the brake pedal several times before moving your Pilot. This seats the caliper back against the rotor.
• ✅ Start with a slow test drive in a safe area. Listen for grinding, clicking, or humming.
• ✅ Make sure the ABS light stays off.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive: Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs).
• ✅ Schedule a front wheel alignment if the strut-to-knuckle bolts were removed or the steering wheel is off-center.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 per front side (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $80-$180 per front side (parts only)

You Save: $370-$570 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours per side.

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