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2013 Jeep Wrangler
2011 - 2017 Jeep Wrangler
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How to Replace Wheel Hub Bearing 07-17 Jeep Wrangler

How to Replace Wheel Hub Bearing 07-17 Jeep Wrangler

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3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
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Safety
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How to Replace Front Wheel Bearing Hubs on a 2011-2017 Jeep Wrangler

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, ABS tips, and safety checks for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

How to Replace Front Wheel Bearing Hubs on a 2011-2017 Jeep Wrangler

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, ABS tips, and safety checks for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

Orion
Orion

🔧 Wrangler - Front Wheel Bearing Hub Replacement

The front wheel bearing on your Wrangler is serviced as a complete hub and bearing assembly. Replacing it restores smooth wheel rotation and can fix growling noise, vibration, ABS warnings, or looseness at the wheel.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours per side

Assumption: This procedure covers the front hub and bearing assembly on your Wrangler’s solid front axle.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support your Wrangler with jack stands under the axle. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
  • ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves. Rust and brake dust can fall during removal.
  • ⚠️ Do not let the brake caliper hang by the brake hose. Support it with wire or a bungee cord.
  • ⚠️ Avoid pulling or twisting the ABS wheel speed sensor wire.
  • ⚠️ The axle nut is very tight. Use a proper breaker bar and keep your body balanced.
  • ⚠️ If the hub is stuck from rust, use penetrating oil and patience. Do not damage the steering knuckle.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • 19mm lug nut socket
  • 13mm 12-point socket
  • 21mm socket
  • 36mm axle nut socket
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs)
  • Torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs)
  • Flat blade screwdriver
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Dead blow hammer
  • Brass punch
  • Wire brush
  • Bungee cord
  • Brake cleaner spray

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front wheel bearing hub assembly - Qty: 1 per side
  • Axle nut - Qty: 1 per side
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
  • Penetrating oil - Qty: 1 can
  • Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 tube

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your Wrangler on level ground, shift into 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
  • 🛞 Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • 🔓 Before raising the vehicle, slightly loosen the front lug nuts and axle nut while the tire is still on the ground.
  • 🧰 A 12-point socket has 12 internal points and is required for the factory hub bolts on this Wrangler.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Lug Nuts and Axle Nut

  • Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about half a turn.
  • Use a 36mm axle nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the axle nut while the tire is still on the ground.
  • Do not fully remove the lug nuts or axle nut yet.
  • Ground contact keeps the hub from spinning.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front Axle

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front axle tube near the side being repaired.
  • Raise your Wrangler until the tire is off the ground.
  • Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front axle tube.
  • Lower the axle onto the jack stands and gently shake the vehicle to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Wheel

  • Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
  • Remove the wheel and place it flat under the frame as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Remove the Brake Caliper

  • Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the two brake caliper bracket bolts.
  • Lift the caliper and bracket assembly off the brake rotor.
  • Use a bungee cord to hang the caliper from the spring or frame.
  • Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the Brake Rotor

  • Slide the brake rotor straight off the wheel studs by hand.
  • If it is stuck, spray the hub area with brake cleaner spray first, then tap the rotor hat with a dead blow hammer.
  • A dead blow hammer is a soft-faced hammer that reduces bounce and helps avoid damage.

Step 6: Remove the Axle Nut

  • Use a 36mm axle nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to fully remove the axle nut.
  • If the axle shaft is stuck in the hub splines, thread the old nut back on a few turns.
  • Use a brass punch and dead blow hammer to lightly tap the axle inward.
  • A brass punch is a soft metal drift that helps move parts without damaging steel threads.

Step 7: Disconnect the ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Wire

  • Follow the sensor wire from the hub toward the frame by hand.
  • Use a flat blade screwdriver to gently open the plastic retaining clips.
  • Disconnect the ABS connector by pressing the lock tab and pulling the connector apart.
  • Use needle-nose pliers only if a clip is stuck. Do not crush the connector.

Step 8: Remove the Hub Bearing Bolts

  • From the back side of the steering knuckle, use a 13mm 12-point socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the three hub bearing bolts.
  • If the bolts are tight or rusty, use the 1/2-inch drive breaker bar with the 13mm 12-point socket.
  • Keep the bolts organized. Inspect them for heavy rust or stretched threads.

Step 9: Remove the Old Hub Assembly

  • Pull the hub assembly straight outward by hand while guiding the axle shaft through the center.
  • If the hub is stuck, apply penetrating oil around the hub-to-knuckle seam.
  • Use a dead blow hammer to tap around the hub flange evenly.
  • Do not pry hard against the steering knuckle sealing surface.
  • Work slowly around the hub in a circle.

Step 10: Clean the Mounting Surface

  • Use a wire brush to clean rust and debris from the steering knuckle where the hub sits.
  • Spray the area with brake cleaner spray and wipe it clean.
  • Apply a very thin layer of anti-seize compound by hand to the knuckle bore.
  • Do not get anti-seize on the brake rotor or wheel studs.

Step 11: Install the New Hub Assembly

  • Guide the axle shaft through the center of the new hub by hand.
  • Seat the hub squarely into the steering knuckle.
  • Start all three hub bolts by hand first.
  • Use a 13mm 12-point socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the bolts evenly.
  • Use a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs) and 13mm 12-point socket to tighten the hub bolts to Torque to 102 Nm (75 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reconnect the ABS Sensor Wire

  • Route the new ABS wire exactly like the old one.
  • Use your hands to snap the wire into the factory retaining clips.
  • Connect the ABS connector until it clicks.
  • Use a flat blade screwdriver only to help seat stubborn clips gently.
  • Make sure the wire cannot touch the tire, axle shaft, or brake rotor.

Step 13: Install the New Axle Nut

  • Thread the new axle nut on by hand first.
  • Use a 36mm axle nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the axle nut.
  • Final torque will be done after the wheel is installed and the tire is on the ground.

Step 14: Reinstall the Brake Rotor

  • Clean both sides of the rotor hat with brake cleaner spray.
  • Slide the rotor onto the wheel studs by hand.
  • If needed, hold it in place with one lug nut installed finger-tight.

Step 15: Reinstall the Brake Caliper

  • Remove the bungee cord and lower the caliper bracket assembly over the rotor.
  • Start both caliper bracket bolts by hand.
  • Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs) to tighten the caliper bracket bolts to Torque to 169 Nm (125 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Reinstall the Wheel

  • Install the wheel by hand onto the studs.
  • Start all lug nuts by hand.
  • Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 17: Lower the Wrangler and Torque the Fasteners

  • Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to raise the axle slightly.
  • Remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Lower your Wrangler until the tire touches the ground and cannot spin.
  • Use a torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs) and 36mm axle nut socket to tighten the axle nut to Torque to 237 Nm (175 ft-lbs).
  • Use a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs) and 19mm lug nut socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 130 Nm (95 ft-lbs).

Step 18: Final Visual Check

  • Use a flashlight if available to check that the ABS wire is clipped in and clear of moving parts.
  • Use your hands to confirm the brake hose is not twisted.
  • Spin the tire by hand before fully lowering if possible. It should turn smoothly without grinding.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Pump the brake pedal several times before driving. The pedal should feel firm.
  • ✅ Start with a slow test drive under 25 mph and listen for grinding, clicking, or rubbing.
  • ✅ Watch for ABS or traction control lights on the dash.
  • ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
  • ✅ If there is still growling noise, check the opposite front hub and the rear axle bearings.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 per side (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $90-$220 per side (parts only)

You Save: $260-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.


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