🔧 Forester - Suspension Bushing Replacement

Suspension bushings are rubber isolators pressed into control arms and suspension links. On your Forester, the most common DIY-replaceable front suspension bushings are the front lower control arm bushings, but Subaru typically services these as part of the complete lower control arm assembly rather than pressing bushings individually.

Assumption: This guide covers replacing the front lower control arm assemblies, which renews the main front suspension bushings and ball joint connection area safely for a beginner.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Forester with jack stands only. Never work under a vehicle held up by a jack.
• ⚠️ The suspension is structural. Loose or incorrectly torqued bolts can cause loss of steering control.
• ⚠️ Do not use an impact wrench on the ball joint pinch bolt during installation; it can damage threads or clamp force.
• ⚠️ Final torque on control arm bushing bolts should be done at normal ride height, not with the suspension hanging.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after replacing control arms or suspension bushings.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 14mm combination wrench
• 17mm combination wrench
• 19mm combination wrench
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Dead blow hammer
• Needle nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Wire brush
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm assembly, left - Qty: 1
• Front lower control arm assembly, right - Qty: 1
• Front lower control arm mounting bolts - Qty: 4
• Front lower control arm mounting nuts - Qty: 4
• Front ball joint pinch bolts - Qty: 2
• Front ball joint pinch nuts - Qty: 2
• Alignment service - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Forester on flat, solid ground and shift to Park.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🛞 Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the original position of the control arm bolts before removal. This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive to the alignment shop.
• 🧰 A ball joint separator is a tool that separates the tapered ball joint stud from the steering knuckle without hammering directly on the joint.
• 🔩 Penetrating oil helps loosen rusted fasteners. Spray the control arm bolts and ball joint pinch bolts before starting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about half a turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loose first, lift second.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Forester at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the approved front side support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Give the vehicle a light push to confirm it is stable before working.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the front lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the side of the vehicle as an added safety backup.

Step 4: Inspect the Control Arm and Mark Bolt Positions

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the lower control arm mounting bolts and washers against the subframe.
• Use a wire brush to clean dirt and rust from the visible threads.
• Spray penetrating oil on the front and rear control arm mounting bolts and the ball joint pinch bolt.

Step 5: Remove the Ball Joint Pinch Bolt

• Locate the ball joint where the outer end of the lower control arm meets the steering knuckle.
• Use a 14mm socket and 14mm combination wrench to remove the ball joint pinch bolt and nut.
• If the bolt is stuck, use a dead blow hammer to gently tap it out after the nut is removed.
• A pinch bolt clamps the steering knuckle around the ball joint stud.

Step 6: Separate the Ball Joint from the Steering Knuckle

• Use a ball joint separator to separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch carefully between the control arm and subframe to help lower the arm if needed.
• Do not pry against the rubber CV axle boot.
• Protect rubber boots from tears.

Step 7: Remove the Front Control Arm Mounting Bolt

• Support the control arm by hand so it does not drop suddenly.
• Use a 17mm socket and 17mm combination wrench to remove the front lower control arm mounting bolt and nut.
• Keep track of washer direction and bolt orientation.

Step 8: Remove the Rear Control Arm Mounting Bolt

• Use a 19mm socket and 19mm combination wrench to remove the rear lower control arm mounting bolt and nut.
• Slide the control arm out of the subframe pocket.
• If it is tight, use a pry bar 18-inch gently to walk the arm out.

Step 9: Compare the New and Old Control Arms

• Place the new and old control arms side by side.
• Confirm the bushing shape, ball joint position, and mounting points match.
• Use needle nose pliers if you need to move any small retaining clips from the old arm to the new arm.

Step 10: Install the New Control Arm

• Slide the new control arm into the subframe pockets by hand.
• Install the rear mounting bolt and nut finger-tight.
• Install the front mounting bolt and nut finger-tight.
• Use the pry bar 18-inch only as needed to align the bolt holes.
• Do not fully tighten the bushing bolts yet.

Step 11: Reconnect the Ball Joint

• Guide the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum under the lower control arm to gently raise the arm until the ball joint seats fully.
• Install the new ball joint pinch bolt and nut.
• Use a 14mm socket, 14mm combination wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the pinch bolt to Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 11 on the opposite side using the same tools.
• Replacing both sides keeps handling even and predictable.

Step 13: Set the Suspension to Ride Height

• Reinstall both front wheels by hand-tightening the lug nuts with the 19mm lug nut socket.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the vehicle slightly and remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground and the suspension carries the vehicle weight.
• This is called ride height, meaning the suspension is sitting like it does during normal driving.

Step 14: Final-Torque the Control Arm Bolts

• With the vehicle at normal ride height, use the 17mm socket, 19mm socket, matching combination wrenches, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the control arm bolts.
• Tighten the front lower control arm mounting bolt to Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).
• Tighten the rear lower control arm mounting bolt to Torque to 145 Nm (107 ft-lbs).
• Torque bushings at ride height.

Step 15: Torque the Front Wheels

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the front lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Tighten the lug nuts to Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and listen for clunks, binding, or scraping.
• ✅ Road test slowly first. Check that the steering wheel returns to center and the vehicle tracks straight.
• ✅ Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately. Control arm replacement changes suspension geometry.
• ✅ Recheck the lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench.
• ✅ If you hear a clunk after repair, stop driving and recheck ball joint seating and control arm fastener torque.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $250-$550 (parts + alignment)

You Save: $300-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours plus alignment time.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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